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ORIGINAL 

HANDBOOK FOR RIDERS 

A Complete Guide to Modern Horsemanship 

BY 

M. C. GRIMSGAARD, KJW.O., G.M.E.H.S. 

Captain of Horse, Royal Norwegian Cavalry 

Translated by the Author 

Revised and Corrected by The Berlitz School of Languages 




WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 



Privately Printed 



New York 
1911 



All Rights Reserved 







Copyright, 1911 
By M. C. GRIMSGAARD 









The Winthrop Press 
Nqw York. N. Y., U. S. A. 



©CU289551 



*» 




H. R. H.THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT. 



To 

Field-Marshal 

His Royal Highness 

ARTHUR WILLIAM PATRICK ALBERT, 

Duke of Connaught and Strathearn, 

K.G., K.T., K.P., G.C.B., G.C.S.I., 

G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., G.C.V.O. 

This 

HANDBOOK FOR RIDERS 

is most humbly dedicated in grateful remembrance 

of the honour bestowed upon the author in having 

been granted the privilege of inspecting 

the Alder shot Division of the English 

Army, then under command of 

His Royal Highness. 



Preface. 

Having been frequently asked by my pupils 
for some simple work on horsemanship, which they 
might study in connection with their practical 
riding lessons, I have undertaken to supply that 
apparent want by writing this book. It contains 
nothing new to the fully experienced rider; those 
less experienced will, it is hoped, find in it the 
necessary assistance. If so, my purpose will be 
achieved, and still more so, if it may lead to a more 
rational and humane treatment of our most noble 
domestic animal, the Horse. 



CONTENTS. 



First Part. Page 

The Rider's Dress i 

The Riding Horse 5 

The Stable and its Management 16 

Feeding and Watering 25 

Shoeing 30 

Saddlery and its Care 38 

Saddling and Bridling 46 

Unsaddling and Unbridling 52 

Packing the Saddle . 53 

Grooming and Care of Horses 58 

The Riding-School 67 

Second Part. Riding Instruction 73 

Leading the Horse, Dismounted or Mounted ... 77 

I. Riding with Snaffle 80 

Mounting and Dismounting 81 

The Rider's Position when Mounted 90 

Handling the Reins 95 

Saluting on Horseback 100 

The Aids in Horsemanship 103 

How, when and where to Punish Horses .... 109 

The Various Paces 114 

Carriage of the Horse when Mounted 122 

Riding in Classes 128 

To Put the Horse into a Walk 132 

To Pass from the Walk to the Trot 133 

To Pass from the Trot to the Walk 135 

To Halt from the Walk 135 

Turning Corners 136 

Turning Diagonally Across the School 138 

The Medium Trot 139 

Turning on Forehand with Horse's Head to the Front 140 
Bending the Horse's Neck at the Stand and while in 

Motion 141 



Page 
Bending the Horse's Head at the Stand and while in 

Motion 143 

Backing 150 

The Extended Trot 152 

Collecting the Horse 154 

Halts 158 

Bending the Horse 160 

Turning on Forehand with Horse's Head Bent Sideways 162 

The Great Circle 163 

Turning while in Motion 165 

Change in Crossing the Great Circle 168 

Yielding Sideways to the Rider's Leg 169 

Side-Gaits . 171 

Turning on Haunches 184 

Diminishing and Resuming the Great Circle . . . 186 

Small Circles 188 

The Gallop 191 < 

Obstacle Riding 201 

Rising to the Trot 214 

II. Riding with Curb 219 

Mounting and Dismounting 220 

Handling the Reins 224 

The Lessons 230 

III. Measures Adapted to Special Cases 231 

Supplement. 

Outdoor Riding 243 

The Full Gallop (The Carriere) 249 

Method of Swimming a Horse 251 

Long Distance Rides 252 

Exercising and Longeing 256 

Transportation of Horses 263 

Treatment of Sick Horses 268 

Quadrille Riding 278 

Ladies' Riding 294 

Schooling the Horse (Breaking) 304 

Horse-Gymnastics (The Modern Equine High School) 314 

leu de Barre 339 

Memorandum 343 



First Part. 



The Rider's Dress. 

"Dress properly and you may learn to ride properly." 

The rider's costume has much to do with his 
firmness and comfort in the saddle; it should be 
plain and well cut; trimming of every kind and 
conspicuous colours should be carefully avoided. 

A hat or cap, which, when riding, feels as if it 
were falling off every moment, is troublesome; it 
is not unusual to see inexperienced riders lose their 
balance in efforts to hold their hats; nor should 
the headwear be too tight, a condition which may 
easily cause headache when riding. A small cap 
of cloth or silk is recommended during lessons and 
on long distance rides, but it is not considered 
comme il faut for promenade riding, when a silk hat 
or a Derby is preferable. 

The riding-coat for summer wear or in the 
school should be single breasted and fitted to 
the figure; the skirts cut off in front and so 
short as not to touch the back of the horse (Fig. i). 
The overcoat for riding should also be single 
breasted, of the "fly front" shape shown in Fig. 2, 
and should have several pockets. 

1 — Handbook for Riders. 



Riding-breeches should fit well up in the 
crotch and be low in the waist, especially in front. 
Trousers with straps may also be worn; they 
should not be made of too elastic material nor fit 




too closely. The mate- 
rial of riding-breeches 
should be elastic; they 
may be baggy or 
close-fitting, according 
to taste, but should 
always be close-fit- 
ting around and below the knee (Fig. j). When 
riding-trousers or breeches are double seated the 
material should be of the same softness as that 
of the garment; therefore chamois skin or leather 
may not always be suitable. It is advisable to 



— 3 — 

provide a sufficient quantity of the material for 
use in repairing the seat, when worn out. If the 
rider should feel uncomfortable from the double 
thickness of cloth, the inner material may be re- 
moved. The front seam should be on the inside of 
the leg, just clearing but not*coming over the knee. 

For trousers, the so-called whipcord is recom- 
mended; and for breeches the same or softer 
materials may be used. 

With trousers, low boots are used with 
elastics at the sides, and the spurs should be 
fastened in the heels. Riding-boots, of whatever 
shape they may be, should be sufficiently wide 
and soft at the ankle as not to inter- \ 

fere with the play of the ankle and 
instep — •& most important considera- 
tion in preserving a supple seat. The 
soles should not be thick nor should 
they break off under the middle of 
the foot. When drawn on, the tops 
of the boots must not catch in the Fl &- 3- 

skirts of the saddle, as that would prevent the 
rider from freely using his legs — a most annoying 
thing, though easily remedied by having leather 
straps on the inside of the boot-legs, fastened by 
buttons on the breeches, thus keeping the boot-leg 
always in place. With riding-boots, it is preferable 
to wear loose spurs with straps buckled on the out- 
side. To prevent the spurs from sliding down, a 
small leather knob is usually placed on the boot-heel. 

Riding-gloves should be of soft dogskin or 
wash-leather (deerskin) and should be very loose. 




— 4 — 

A tight-fitting glove must inevitably cause rigidity 
of the wrist, as the effort of closing the fingers 
reacts on the wrist, depriving the hand of its 
most important attribute, pliancy. 

The short English crop is excellent for road 
and country riding, but the ordinary long riding- 
whip is preferable during lessons, particularly for 
schooling a horse. 

Everyone, who has ridden in very cold weather;, 
knows that, as a rule, the feet suffer most from 
cold. Even the best protection, applied inside 
the boots, will in time fail to keep the feet warm. 




Fig. 4. 

Fur riding-socks (Fig. 4) worn outside the boots 
have proved to be the best protection. Over- 
shoes of this kind are usually made of strong 
sheepskin with short black wool turned inside, 
thus forming a sort of hood for the foot, the inner 
side being so formed as to permit drawing around 
the heel and buckling on the outside of the foot. 
They are trimmed with thin skin, blackened and 
soled with thin leather. When worn, the back of 
the overshoe rests on the spur. With trousers a 
pair of gaiters should be worn; with riding- 
boots, long^ stockings; the rider will then be prepared 



for the severest 

cold. Another and 

not less important 

advantage of the 

overshoes is that by 

their use one may 

- it- 
wear the same kind 

of boots in winter 

and summer.* 

The Riding Horse. 

"My kingdom for a horse." 

It goes without 
saying that a rider 
should at least 
know the name of 
the more impor- 
tant external parts 
of the horse. 

These are {Fig. 
5, A): 

I. Fore part, 
that is: head, neck, 
withers, chest, 
shoulders and 
fore legs. 

i. Poll. 

2. Forelock. 

3. Forehead. 

4. Eyebrows. 

5. Nostril. 

*The reader will find in the back of this book the addresses of some 
reliable places of interest to horsemen. 




6. Chin groove. 

7. Cheek bone. 

8. Edge of jaw (gan- 

ache) . 

9. Parotid gland. 



— 6 




Fig. 5, B. 



IO. 


Jowl. 


23- 


Fetlock (pastern 


II. 


Throat groove or 




joint). 




throttle. 


24. 


Pastern. 


12. 


Mouth (the tooth- 


25- 


Fetlock (tuft). 




less part of the lower 


26. 


Coronet. 




jaw is called the 


27. 


Hoof or foot (Fig. 




interdental space or 




5, B) consisting of 




bar). 




(a) plantar surface of 


13- 


Crest. 




wall; (b) sole; (c) 


i4- 


Withers. 




frog; (d) bar; (e) 


IS- 


Chest (breast). 




bulb of heel; (/) 


16. 


Shoulder point. 




toe; (fg) wall; (gh) 


17- 


Shoulder 1 

blade. \ , , e . 

1 shoulder. 




quarter, and (i) the 
white line. 


18. 


Arm. 1 






19. 


Elbow. 




II. Middle part. 


20. 


Forearm. 


28. 


Back. 


21. 


Knee. 


29. 


Belly. 


22. 


Shank (canon bone 


30. 


Sides. 




and back tendons). 


3 1 - 


Flanks. 



— 7 



32. 



Loin. 



III. Hind part. 

S3. Croup. 

34. Point of the hip. 



35. Thigh. 

36. Stifle. 

37. Hock. 

36 to 37. Lower thigh 
or gaskin. 



Fig. 6 shows a fore hoof, Fig. 7 a hind hoof. 

Riding, to be of any service or pleasure, must, 
of course, depend in great part on the horse. A 
faultless looking animal may, on account of its 
disposition and behaviour, become a plague to the 
rider. Inasmuch as tastes differ so widely, I 
would advise every rider, who has the opportunity, 





Fig. 6. Fig. 7. 

to try his proposed mount himself, before he 
decides thereon. If obliged to use the judgment 
of another, it is preferable that the person making 
the choice should have ridden a horse, meeting the 
approval of his principal. The animal should 
always be tried by actual riding; for, even during 
mounting, it may display tendencies which would 
not please its prospective rider. 



— 8 — 

The paces of a riding horse should be sure and 
progressive, but of a slow tempo; short stepping 
horses are a great nuisance. The riding horse 
should have a lively but gentle temper and be free 
from nervousness. The eyes and ears are good 
indications of its disposition. 

One must not forget to study the horse when 
in its stall and at different times and under different 
conditions; for example, when it is groomed, fed 
and saddled. 

The height of the horse should be in some 
proportion to that of his rider, to avoid too great 
lack of harmony in appearance. The measurement 
of a horse should be taken from the ground to the 
highest point of the withers and is reckoned by 
hands and inches or by centimeters — one hand 
(4 inches) being equal to 10.2 cm. 

In appearance the riding horse should con- 
form substantially to the following rules: 

The head should be light but not too short, as 
it is the lever on which the reins act. 

The eyes should be large, clear, and have 
a lively but steady and kindly look. Eyes in 
which much of the white shows indicate bad 
temper. Wall-eyes are those in which the iris is 
dull white. 

The ears should be lean, narrow and upright; 
hanging ears are, as a rule, a sign of sluggishness. 
Vicious horses turn their ears backward. Those 
which shy show a nervous twitching of the ears. 

The space between the branches of the lower 
jaws should be wide, the jowl not too broad and 



— 9 — 

the parotid glands short, narrow and standing 
out plainly. 

The poll, that is the joint between the first 
vertebra of the neck and the head, must not be 
too thick or broad, and the upper line formed by 
it and the neck, i.e., the crest, should be a con- 
tinuous one, of which the top of the head, i.e., the 
poll, should be the highest point. 

The neck should be broadest at the shoulder, 
decrease gradually towards the poll and have a 
sharp edge. Long and thin, as well as short and 
thick, necks are undesirable. A neck is said to 
be lopping over when the crest, on account of the 
weight of the neck, hangs over to one side. 

The withers should be prominent and rather 
inclined to slant evenly off towards the back than 
to be short and high. 

The shoulder should be long and sloping, the 
chest deep but not too broad. The fore legs 
should stand straight up and down with muscular 
forearm, dry and clean cannon bone and back 
tendons. The pasterns should slant at an angle 
of about 45 degrees and should not be too long. 
The joints should be strong and broad. 

The back should be short and straight, the 
loin broad and from the back pass imperceptibly 
to the croup, which, in turn, should be broad, 
long and, when viewed from behind, rounded. It 
should not be pointed and sloping. The tail 
should be placed high and hang freely down, not 
pinched in between the hind legs, nor be in a 
continual nervous motion. The hind legs must 



— IO — 

neither be behind the horse nor too far under him. 
The hocks should be strong and broad and neither 
bent outward nor inward. A horse with hocks 
bent inward is called cowhocked. The same 
distance between fore feet as between hind feet is 
most desirable. 

In a well shaped hoof the line from the 
coronet down to the toe should form an angle of 
45 degrees with the ground on which it stands; 
at the quarters it should be wide, and the colour of 
the horn dark; light coloured horn is, as a rule, 
brittle and shelly. 

The age of a horse may be judged in part 
from its appearance; as years pass the grooves 
over the eyes become deeper, grey hairs show 
themselves on the head, the underlip hangs, and 
the formerly rounded parts of the body become 
sharp. 

The lifetime of a healthy, strong, and in every 
respect well treated horse of good breed, may be 
divided into three periods: 

i. The development, which lasts until and 
including the 6th year. 

2. The powerful age from the 7th through the 
14th year. 

3. The age in which it gradually, declines, 
beginning with the 15th year. 

The surest signs of the age of the horse are 
the teeth. These are of two kinds: temporary or 
milk-teeth, and those which are permanent and 
are called horse-teeth. The difference lies in their 
size, shape and colour; the permanent teeth being 



— II — 



larger, the crown nearly of the same breadth as 
the bottom and with grooves alongside, and of 
a darker colour than the milk-teeth. 

The fully developed horse has 12 incisors 
(nippers), 24 molars (grinders) and 4 tusks 
(bridle teeth). The last are, as a rule, only 
found in the male animal; they are placed 
between the nippers and the grinders and are 
not changed. (Fig. 8). 

The age of a horse is 
judged by the growth, appear- 
ance and position of the nip- 
pers. The foal within a few 
days of its birth gets its first 
pair of nippers (the centrals), 
about five weeks later the next 
pair (the laterals) appear and 
after the fifth month the last 
pair (the corner teeth) . At the 
age of one year the foal has all its nippers, but the 
number of molars is as yet only 12. 

After that time and until the age of 4% years 
it is the changing of teeth in combination with 
their wear, which indicates the age of the animal. 

In'glancing at the table surface of the crown 
of a nipper, we find in its middle a dark groove, 
called the "mark"; it is the presence of this on 
the different teeth and in a different degree which 
is the surest sign of the age of the horse. As the 
tooth grows and its surface wears off, the mark 
becomes smaller and at last disappears, leaving 
but a white ring. The mark disappears first from 




12 



the oldest teeth; it has on the top the same shape 
as the tooth, and it is this last named point, to- 
gether with the want of the ring of enamel, that 
surrounds the mark, which makes it possible to 

easily dis- 

* cover frauds 

( bishoping ) 

through ar- 

Sometimes 




a <<sai 



jf 



■ 



Fig. 9. 
tificially produced marks (Fig. 9). 
efforts are also made to make a horse look older 
than he is in reality; this is done by pulling out one 
or another pair of milk-teeth, as by such an opera- 
tion the permanent teeth may appear earlier. 

In the case of 
cribbers the age 
may be decided by 
the corner teeth, 
which do not wear 
off by biting the 
crib. 

At the age of 
2 years the mark 
has disappeared 
from the middle teeth and partly from the laterals, 
but on the corner teeth is yet visible. 

At the age of 2^ years the mark has dis- 
appeared from the nippers, the centrals fall out 
and are replaced by permanent teeth (Fig. 10), 
which grow so rapidly that they already show 
wear at the age of 3 years (Fig. 11). 

At the age of ^}4 years the laterals are 
changed (Fig. 12) ; the horse thus has at the age 




Fig. 



10. 






13 — 




Fig. it. 



of 4 years four permanent teeth, which already 
have commenced to wear off. Six months later, 
as a rule, the corner 
teeth change (Fig. ij) 
and the tusks appear. 
At the age of 5 years 
the front of the corner 
teeth commence to wear 
and they present a shell- 
like condition, though it 
is possible that a single 
milk corner tooth may 
yet be left. 

Usually at the age 
of 6 years the mark on 
the centrals 
has disap- 
peared and 
the corner 
teeth are in 
wear through- 
out the whole 
table surface 
(Fig. 14). 

On a 7 -year- 
old horse the mark 
has quite disap- 
peared from the 
centrals and only 
shows in a small 
spot on the laterals 
(Fig. 15). Often Fig. 13. 




!*$\ 



V 




H 





Fig. 15. 



(£'"'■ Jf-s 




Fig. 16. 




Fig. 17. 

at [this age the corner teeth in the^upper jaw 
commence forming a small hook (Fig. 16). 

At the age of 8 years the mark has quite dis- 
appeared from the laterals and nearly from the 
corner teeth (Fig. 1?). 



— i5 — 



After the 8th year the age of the horse can not 
be decided with any great degree of certainty. As 
signs of the more advanced age of the horse may be 
noted: The increasing length of the teeth, their 
rounded surface and their dull, yellow colour; still 
further the semi-circular row of teeth grad- 
ually tends towards forming a straight line and the 
jaws begin to form towards each other a very 
acute angle (Fig. 18). 

In order to examine the teeth of the horse, 
talk gently to him and, while stroking his forehead 
and nose, try to open his lips. If the animal snatches 
its head back, do not use force, but start quietly in 
the same manner again. 
To make the horse open 
his mouth one may also 
seize it around the under 
jaw with one hand, and 
with the other seize the 
tongue behind the nippers . 
and pull it out at the 
side. 

In examining the teeth, the nature of the bars 
should also be ascertained ; if they are uneven and 
scarred, or if the underlip is folded over them 
(double bars), it is a sign of ''dead mouth," that is, 
that the horse is hard-mouthed. 

The defects most frequently found in riding 
horses will be hereinafter described under "Treat- 
ment of Sick Horses." 

As those qualities, which are required in a good 
riding horse, principally are found in well-bred 




i6 



animals, it is difficult to understand why anybody 
should take the risk of disappointment and give the 
trainer unnecessary difficulty by acquiring a riding 
horse that is not well bred. 

In examining and judging riding horses, one 
ought to consult not only a capable veterinarian 
but an experienced rider as well; but be warned 
against listening to all the good advice so frequently 
offered to one, for human nature is not yet perfect. 
It was a horsedealer who once made the remark: 
"In horse-dealing nobody is to be trusted; at that 
time I scarcely trust myself." 



The Stable and its Management. 

As riding horses, as a rule, during the greater 
part of the year, are kept in the stable from 21 to 
22 hours out of the 24, it must be understood how 
necessary it is that the stable be arranged as 
appropriately as possible. 

Sufficient space, fresh air, light and absence of 
draught and damp are the principal conditions for 
the welfare of the horse in the stable. 

As stables frequently fail to meet these require- 
ments, and at the same time one may be put to the 
necessity of using them, I shall, in the following 
paragraphs, give some information and quite 
ordinary advice, through which their defects may 
be partly remedied. 

A spacious stall is one in which the horse can 
lie on his side at full length, with his legs stretched 



— i 7 — 

out and his neck and head resting on the floor 
without knocking the poll against the wall of the 
stall. For a riding horse of ordinary size a width 
of 6 feet to 6 feet 6 inches is required and a length of 
about io feet 6 inches. The floor behind the 
stalls ought to be 6 feet 6 inches in width. The 
walls of the stall should be of the same length as its 
floor and at the head high enough to prevent the 
horse, when tied, from taking hold of the upper 
edge with his teeth, which occasionally develops 
"cribbers." 

In old stables the walls and floor have to be 
examined to see if they are tight, and the latter if 
it be sufficiently strong to prevent the horse from 
treading through. 

It frequently happens that the stall-floor in 
old stables is saturated with ammonia gradually 
accumulated, through a long period, from the 
heaped-up manure. In such a case, it may be 
necessary to take up the planks, thoroughly scour, 
air and dry them, or if they be rotten, replace with 
new. The foundation should also be scoured and 
sprinkled with chloride of lime, crushed charcoal 
and tanbark, whereupon the planks, after being 
tarred, are placed on two or three pieces of wood 
crossways, that they may not rest too close to the 
foundation save at the back. For draining, the floor 
of the stall should be given a slight slant (i in ioo), 
and in the passageway, close behind the stalls, 
holes should be made about %, inch in diameter 
and lined with zinc. 

2 — Handbook for Riders. 



i8 



It must be remembered that all these prepara- 
tions are intended for old stables, where drainage 
has been neglected or does not exist. 

I believe it to be an advantage to be without 
rack and fixed manger, as a bore wall does not 
afford any temptation to the horse to learn bad 
habits or injure himself. Added to this, as the 
horse by nature takes his food from the ground, it 
would seem more rational to have the food placed 
on the floor than up on the wall. If the floor be 
clean and if the horse get no more hay than he can 
eat, he will soon learn to be careful with the food 
and to waste nothing. When oats are fed, a loose 
manger of wood is used which is placed on the 
floor in front of the horse and which should be 
taken away as soon as the food is eaten. Such 
mangers are lined on the inside and over the edge, 
with plates of zinc and should be wide but not so 
deep as to prevent the animal from easily reaching 
its food. 

If the horse kicks against the walls, through 
which capped hock is easily developed, straw mats, 
or still better, canvas with straw- filling are applied. 
By such an arrangement the rubbing of the point 
of the hip is albo prevented, should the animal be 
disposed to that habit. 

If the accumulation of manure in cellars 
under the stable can be avoided, at least during 
the warmer weather, it will greatly improve the 
purity of the usual stable air. If there be no 
ventilation in the roof, an air-pipe, made of four 
boards and with shutter underneath, should be 






19 — 



run through the roof. By opening or closing the 
shutter the changing of air can be regulated. The 
air-pipe is placed above the passageway and not 
above the stalls. 

The light should not fall from the sides nor 
directly into the eyes of the animal, but preferablv 
from above or from behind. 

If the hay be kept 
in the loft over the sta- 
ble, a trap door, through 
which it may be thrown 
down, should be placed 
above the passageway 
and not right above the 
head of the horse; this 
arrangement will pre- 
vent the dust and seed, 
which follows the hay, 
from falling on the head 
and into the eyes of the 
animal or being inhaled 
by it. 

The constant stand- 
ing and usual hard work 
during use, from which, 
in particular, riding 

horses' legs suffer, should lead us to provide as 
much rest for them as may be possible; this may 
be obtained by tying the animal in the stable so 
that it can stand up or lie down as it pleases. Fig. 
19 shows such a method of tying a horse: An 
iron staple is driven well into the front wall about 




Fig. 19. 



20 



12 inches from the floor and midway between the 
walls; through an iron ring on the staple the 
halter-rope is fastened. If the horse, tied in 
this manner, gets his fore leg over the rope 
he will usually be able to free the leg without 
help. During grooming and saddling, to prevent 
the horse from biting or interfering with the 

groom, an iron ring is 
fastened to the wall above 
the staple and about 
level with the nose of the 
animal; through this ring 
the rope may be passed. 
Precautions should be 
taken with animals that 
are in the habit of open- 
ing the fastening with their 
lips. 

If the horse is in 
the habit of frequently 
putting his leg over the 
rope and, while so doing, 
becoming very nervous, 
the method pictured in 
Fig. 20 is preferable; the rope is then placed over 
an iron pulley, which is fastened to the wall with 
strong screws; to the lower end of the rope is 
fastened a leather bag filled with lead or sand. 
To prevent the bag from sticking fast, if the horse 
should pull violently upon the rope, a wooden 
ball is strung on the rope. If the horse is in the 
habit of pawing much with his fore feet so as to 




— 21 — 

damage the rope and the leather bag, these may 
either be put through a wooden shaft with well 
rounded edges, or the rope may be passed through 
a hole in the wall so as to bring the lower part 
thereof and the weight on the other side. 

If the horse is in the habit of turning 
around in the stall, two ropes have to be used — 
one on each side of the halter. 

The surest and most practical means of 
preventing the horse from biting the crib is to 
take away from the stall everything which might 
furnish a grip for the teeth. 

The muzzle is ordinarily used as a protection 
against biting the crib; its advantages and 
defects seem to speak for themselves. 

I have seen cribbers take a grip with their 
teeth even on the toe of a fore hoof. In such case 
a muzzle is the only means of prevention. 

I have tried almost every imaginable cure 
for biting the crib but all without success; the 
horse bit through the sheep's wool nailed on, 
enjoyed licking the tar and aloes with which I 
had everything painted over and bit the crib never- 
theless, etc. To punish the animal every time 
it bites the crib will only result in it becoming 
vicious in the stable. Only by removing from 
the stall everything which might furnish a grip 
for the teeth have I succeeded in preventing, but 
not curing, this habit of crib biting. 

For horses that champ the air without taking 
a grip with the teeth, there is scarcely any remedy. 

Standing still to the horse is like idleness to 



22 



the human being — "the root of all evil"; for 
this reason the animal should have plenty of 
exercise in the fresh air and occupation in the 
stall. The latter may be provided by giving it 
many meals and by giving it plenty of good straw 
for bedding. For occupation cribbers are also 
given the so-called bit with keys. 

Horses, with such a ravenous appetite that they 
eat most of their straw bedding, should, instead of 
being tied short (which is cruel), have muzzle on. 
Muzzles must be kept clean. 
On horses, that bite their stable-cloths to 
pieces, a piece of stiff leather may be fastened 
around the under jaw to the noseband of the 
halter (Fig. 21). 

Manure ought to be taken away from the 
stall as soon as it has fallen; at all events this 
must be done at every feeding time. If the manure 

cannot be taken out of the 
stable directly, it must in 
every case be done morning, 
noon and evening. When 
the horse is taken out for 
use, the stall should be well 
cleaned before his return. 
During the warm season 
and in dry weather it will 
do no harm occasionally to 
scour the floor of the stall. 
The holes made in the floor 
for the purpose of draining 
are always to be kept open. 




— 23 — 

In the morning, after the cleaning of the 
crib and after the 'first feed of oats has been given, 
and before the horse is groomed, the bedding 
should be taken from under the horse, and the 
stall and passageway swept. If the temperature 
permits, and especially if the stable is badly 
ventilated, the doors and windows should be kept 
open, and also during the grooming. After every 
grooming the stable should be well swept and the 
stall strewn with sawdust. 

If the hay be given on the floor, the latter 
must be thoroughly swept beforehand. 

After the horse has finished his first work for 
the day, or in any case before noon, he should 
have plenty of straw bedding, to be partly renewed 
in the evening with fresh straw, the dirty and wet 
bedding being taken away. At the same time 
the fastening of the tie is examined. 

Upon going into the stable early in the 
morning, you will find the greater part of the 
bedding lying in the passageway behind the 
horse; therefore the straw, when first laid down, 
should be placed well forward in the stall. To 
prevent the straw from slipping behind the horse 
during the night, a board may be placed at the 
back and set down in grooves on the stall posts; 
in the daytime this board is taken away; such an 
arrangement requires sufficient length of stall. 

The cleanliness of the stable is greatly im- 
proved by frequently strewing the floors with 
sawdust or wood shavings, especially after remov- 
ing the manure. 



— 24 — 

Where peatmoss can be easily had, it is cheaper 
than straw, as well as air purifying, and a warm and 
beneficial bedding for the legs and hoofs of the 
horse; the animal soon becomes familiar with the 
odour which comes from peatmoss directly after it 
is put down. When used for bedding the peatmoss 
should be dry and without lumps. However, it 
has the disadvantage of impeding the grooming of 
the horse, whereas sawdust and shavings facilitate 
it. 

In stables where no permanent attendant is 
kept and where strange horses may be placed, 
there should be movable safety-bars behind the 
stalls or across the passageway from the stall posts 
over to the opposite wall, according to whether it 
is a stable with a single or a double row. These 
safety-bars are arranged in such a manner as to 
prevent loose horses from lifting them up by 
placing their necks thereunder. . 

No matter how well a stall may be arranged, 
there is nothing so good for the riding horse as the 
box-stall about 13 feet square and with walls suf- 
ficiently high to prevent the animal from reaching 
the top with its teeth. The upper part of the walls 
should be an open partition. 

During the dark part of the year the stable 
should be lighted from dusk until the stable is 
arranged for the night. In the morning the stable 
should be lighted until daylight. 



— 25 — 
Feeding and Watering. 

Fodder for the riding horse should consist of 
hay, oats, straw, and occasionally bran. 

The hay should be absolutely dry, not too 
fine, have a fresh green colour and an aromatic 
odour. Timothy mixed with flowery species of 
grass is considered good horsefeed. New hay, 
especially if it is not quite dry, should be avoided. 
Before the hay is given to the horse, the dust and 
seed should be well shaken out and the hay after- 
wards put together in bundles. 

When green fodder can be obtained it is advis- 
able to give the riding horse a few handfuls of it 
daily, but the grass must be fresh, not wet and not 
entirely clover. To turn riding horses out to pas- 
ture is risky, and it should only be done for the sake 
of their health — when recommended by the 
Veterinarian — and then only when there is full 
security for the particular instructions being com- 
plied with. A riding horse turned out on grass 
should not have less than 3 quarts of oats per day; 
he must have ample supply of fresh water, shelter 
against the weather and not be in want of grooming. 

Good oats should be well cleaned, dry, free 
from mouldy smell and weigh about 40 lbs. per 
bushel. The colour has little to do with regard to 
the quality of the oats; black may be as good as 
yellow, but they must not be mettled. Just before 
the oats are given to the horse, they should be 
dampened with fresh water. Crushed oats are con- 
sidered very economical, as the feed is better assim- 
ilated, but it has the disadvantage of weakening 



— 26 — 

the functions of the stomach and it may injure the 
functions of the lungs, and is frequently swallowed 
without being masticated, in this way not being 
mixed with the saliva; this is not the case with 
bruised oats which compel the animal to masticate. 
Crushed or bruised oats may be serviceable for 
very old or sick horses, when much unmasticated 
grain is found in the droppings. 

The straw should be dry, free from dust, rust 
and mouldy odour. The best straw for fodder comes 
from barley or oats. As fodder the straw is used 
either in the shape of chaff or in its natural form. 
The chaff should be about the same length as the 
grains of the oats and be cut evenly; it is given 
together with the oats, and, like these, it should be 
dampened ; a riding horse ought not to have more 
than a handful of it to each portion of oats. If the 
horse masticates the oats properly, leaving but 
little or nothing appearing as undigested, the chaff 
may be completely done away with and especially 
so if the horse is inclined to nibble the straw from 
the bedding. 

Rye- and wheat-straw being of the least 
nutritive value, it is generally used for bedding. 

Hay, as well as oats and straw, should have 
been kept some time after harvesting before being 
used as fodder. 

When used in small quantities carrots are 
beneficial to the digestion. In case of sickness, 
when the animal loses its appetite, for instance, 
catarrh, typhoid fever, pneumonia, jaundice and 
other diseases, carrots have proved to be an 



excellent feed; five or six medium-sized carrots a 
day have proved able to keep up the strength of 
the patient during quite a long time, not only be- 
cause they in themselves contain a good deal of 
easily-digested nutritive material, but also because 
by that means the appetite for other fodder is 
stimulated. Instead of bread and sugar, with 
which lovers of horses like to reward their animals, 
carrots are much to be preferred; they should be 
well cleaned from earth and be cut in thin slices 
before they are given. 

The quantity of fodder depends upon the size 
of the horse and the work which is required of him. 
The times for feeding should, as a rule, always be 
the same. Supposing a riding horse of medium 
size, well developed and broken in, gets sufficient 
exercise, that is to say, 2 to j hours daily, the ration 
per day may be put at: 

10 qts. of oats, 10 lbs. of hay and 7 lbs. of straw ; 

on 1 to 2 hours' daily exercise: 
9 qts. of oats, 9 lbs. of hay and 7 lbs. of straw; 

and on 1 hour's daily exercise : 
7 qts. of oats, 8 lbs. of hay and 7 lbs. of straw; 

(the straw principally used for bedding) . 

During training even up to 18 or 20 qts. of oats 
may be given daily, and there have been cases, 
during very hard riding, when horses have eaten up 
to 28 qts. a day (24 hours) and have stood it well; 
under such circumstances the quantity of oats 
might very well be arranged according to the 
appetite of the animal, but the ration of hay 
ought, as a rule, not to exceed 10 lbs. 



— 28 — 

Feeding the animal just before and after 
being used should, if possible, be avoided, and then 
especially the latter. It is advisable not to give hay 
just before and oats just after the ride ; at all events 
not the latter before the breathing is slowed down 
to about 10 respirations a minute. If, for some 
reason or other, the horse does not eat up all the 
fodder which is given him, the leavings should be 
taken away; mixing the new with the old fodder 
has generally shown that the animal touches neither 
of them. Altogether it is of importance to keep 
the feed boxes clean, as it stimulates the appetite 
and is economical of the food. 

The water that is given to the horse should be 
clean and fresh, but not too cold. Running water — 
not containing much mineral matter — or fresh 
rain-water is the best for horses. Unclean water 
should be filtered, and in water containing mineral 
substances is put a small quantity of muriatic acid 
(about a teaspoonful to a pail of water) before it 
is given the horse to drink. The temperature of 
the water should be about 48 F. ; the water being 
colder should be made warmer by letting it stand 
for a while in fresh, warm air or by applying a 
small quantity of hot water. The water must not 
be made warmer by being allowed to remain any 
time in the stable. 

The horse must not get water just after he has 
come back to the stable after being used, but when 
he has been cooled and the breathing has become 
normal. During riding, and then especially in 
strong sunshine and dust, the horse may be allowed, 



— 29 — 

even if he is a little warm, occasionally to drink a 
few mouthftds. To give water just before the horse 
is taken out for use ought to be avoided if possible. 

As a rule, the water should be given before 
feeding. During short rests on long and fatiguing 
rides, however, a small portion of hay may be given 
before the watering, upon which the feeding with 
oats should follow. On long rides the horse should, 
if possible, have some water while on the road and 
shortly before reaching the place for the intended 
rest, the animal will then start eating sooner and 
better. 

When in the stable it is sufficient to give water 
three times a day. To ascertain whether the groom 
has so far done his duty, it is only necessary to turn 
on the watertap or rattle with the pail; if the 
animal is thirsty, it will directly show it by whinny- 
ing and by turning the head. 

As an example the following feed table may be 
appended : 

At 5 a. m. 2 qts. of oats. 

Water and 3 lbs. of hay. 

3 qts. of oats. 

Water and 3 lbs. of hay. 

2 qts. of oats. 

3 qts. of oats. 
Water and 4 lbs. of hay. 

(The oats given with or without chaff.) 

Otherwise the hours for feeding should be 
arranged according to the time the horse is at work 
and may very well be diminished to five for horses 
that are much in use, but as for horses that "stand" 



5 


A. 


M. 


6 







9 







2 


M 




3 


P. 


M. 


6 




— - 



— 3Q — 

much and for cribbers, frequent feeding and 
smaller portions at a time are preferable. 

In preparing (training) a horse for long rides, 
at the same time increasing the quantity of food, 
the number of feeding times should be diminished, 
because during such rides the animal will have to 
eat principally morning and evening, that is to say, 
fewer times and more at a time. 



Shoeing. 

Those readers who wish a more comprehensive 
knowledge of horseshoeing can easily find it, as 
the literature on this subject is very rich; for 
this reason I shall only explain the shoeing of the 
sound hoof. 

Reasoning from the fact that shoes are 
injurious to the hoofs and legs of the horse, this 
must especially be the case with the riding horse, 
as the pressure of the hoof on the ground is con- 
siderably increased on account of the weight of 
the rider. It seems, then, to be of great advantage 
to save the riding horse as much as possible from 
shoeing, especially so with young horses until the 
hoof has reached its full development, which does 
not occur before the 5th year. 

It is of great advantage during the school- 
ing of the horse to let him go bare-footed; by 
saving the hoofs from the weight of the shoe it 
makes the horse a better stayer, and his movements 
more free; also the injuries, which the horse 
might cause by interfering, are considerably 



— 3i — 

diminished when the hoof is without shoe. In 
such cases, of course, the hoof should at times be 
trimmed by rasping off at the lower margin of the 
wall if it, for want of wear, grows too long. 

In order to facilitate the shoeing and to diminish 
its injurious effects on the hoof, the horn should 
be kept moist and tough; the daily cleaning of 
the hoofs contributes greatly to this; if the horn 
should still become hard and brittle, it is advisable, 
before having the horse shod, to let him stand for 
some time on moist sawdust or moss without 
shoes on. It is particularly the fore hoof which 
is most liable to become dry. To prevent the 
moisture, which in this manner is applied to the 
hoofs, from evaporating too soon and thereby 
causing the horn to contract, a smearing with 
some greasy substance may be used, or what is 
better — glycerine. 

In order to pare and shoe the hoof of the 
horse, his foot has to be taken up; and to do it in 
the right manner should be known by every 
rider, as the reluctance of many horses to having 
their legs raised comes originally from an ignorant 
and violent manner of doing it. Caution, soothing 
words and no higher raising of the foot than 
necessary are especially to be recommended. 

The fore leg is taken up in the following 
manner : 

Place yourself by and a little in front of the 
leg which is to be lifted, stroke the horse with 
your hands several times on the neck, shoulder 
and leg all the way down to the fetlock. If the 



— 32 — 

animal quietly submits to it, then seize with your 
right (or left) hand from the front of and around 
the left (or right) pastern and, while pressing 
your elbow against the back of the horse's knee, 
lift the leg and with your own shoulder push the 
weight of the horse over on the standing leg, and 
call out a short and distinct "foot," after which 
the other hand also seizes the pastern, and the 
bent knee of the horse is kept resting against your 
thigh. 

If the hind leg is to be taken up, place your- 
self by the left (or right) side of the horse facing 
to the rear; stroke him repeatedly with your 
hands over the back, the loin, the thigh and the 
hock down towards the pastern. If the animal 
quietly submits to it, then seize with your right 
(or left) hand from behind just under the fetlock 
and round the left (or right) pastern; the leg is 
lifted, while the other hand, pressed against the 
hip of the horse, brings the weight of the animal 
over on the standing leg, and the word "foot" is 
pronounced in a short and sharp tone. Then 
place your left (or right) knee forward under the 
lifted leg of the horse, after which both your 
hands seize the pastern by passing your left (or 
right) arm over and along the inside of the lifted 
leg, which is supported against your thigh. The 
lifted hind leg must not be stretched unnecessarily 
far backwards, as this would cause the animal 
pain, and generally ends by its starting to kick 
every time a hind leg is to be taken up. If the 
horse seems unwilling to have his leg held up 



— 33 — 

main force should not be used, but he should be 
allowed to put his leg down again, and then the 
above-described method is repeated until he 
quietly submits to it ; the usual result of such a 
method is that the horse at last raises the leg 
of himself that is indicated to him. 




„;»*"* 



Fig. 2 2. 



If the same person who holds the leg up is also 
to do the work on the hoof, he can, of course, only 
"hold up" with one of his hands, which always 
is done during the daily cleaning of the hoofs (Fig. 
22). The leg of the horse must not be kept up 
longer than absolutely necessary. 

When the lifted leg is again put down, it 
should be done carefully, while the man slowly 

3 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 34 — 

draws his foot back; to let the leg go suddenly 
and jump to the side is wrong. 

The horse should, as a rule, be reshod every 
4th week. If the shoes by this time are not worn 
out, the same shoes may be replaced after the 
hoof is pared and the shoes again fitted; this is 
called resetting. 

On the paring of the hoof, the fitting and 
putting on of the shoe, the surety and preservation 
of the horse's legs depend to such an extent that 
every rider should at least possess some knowledge 
of it. 

It should be observed in the paring of the 
hoof that it gets its natural position, which is 
easily found out by letting the horse for some 
time go without shoes and on even ground, rather 
on fine sand; in so doing the hoof will wear into 
its natural position towards the ground. It may 
then easily be ascertained at every shoeing that 
the position of the hoof is exactly the same. If 
the toe is shortened too much, the horse is liable 
to knuckle over; on the other hand, if the quarters 
are pared down too much, the position of the 
pastern becomes too slanting, and the horse will 
then lower the fetlock too much, by which the 
flexors of the leg are injured. 

The part of the hoof to be pared is the plantar- 
surface and the sole; the bars and the frog should 
not be touched with the exception of loose hanging 
pieces of horn and dead horn, which are to be 
taken off; the perioplic membrane of the wall 
should not be rasped off. Trimming the hoof, in 



— 35 — 

order to make it look small, is as injurious to the 
horse as the pinching in of the foot by too small 
footwear is to man. The proportion between the 
height of the hoof at the quarters and at the toe 
should, as a rule, be as i to 3. On shod hoofs the 
horn grows about % inch in 5 weeks. 

To the ready and correctly pared hoof the 
shoe should be fitted, observing that the shoe 
lies close to the whole plantarsurface, not pressing 
on the sole and the frog, not reaching outside the 
hoof except a very little at the outside quarters, 
and the branches of the shoe reaching about -^ 
inch beyond the corners of the quarters. 

It is injurious to the hoof to fit the shoe, when 
it is so hot that it singes the horn. 

In the application of the shoe it should be 
observed that during the nailing on it does not get 
displaced, and especially so on the inner side of 
the hoof, not allowing it to reach outside the edge 
of the hoof, and that nails are driven in rightly. 
If the nail penetrates the horn very easily, or if 
the horse snatches the foot back, it is to be feared 
that the nail has been put in wrongly, and it 
ought then to be drawn out immediately; if the 
extracted nail is bloody, it is advisable not to 
use the same nail-hole. The ends of the nails are 
looked after, especially on the inner side, if they 
are properly clenched. The edge of the hoof must 
be rounded and the edge of the shoe even. 

To obtain a little knowledge in shoeing it is 
recommended to the reader to make some visits 
to the shop of an experienced and clever farrier; 



36- 



in doing so you might learn to drive in a nail to a 
certain degree correctly, and the time will not 
have been wasted. 

In northern climates it is necessary to have 
different shoes for summer and for winter. 

As summer shoeing the flat shoe is generally 
used, that is the shoe without calks and toepiece 
(Fig. 23) ; still, when the ground is very slippery 

and* hilly, shoes 
with low calks 
should be used ; 
whereas riding 
horses are better 
without the toe- 
piece. When us- 
ing shoes with 
calks and without 
toepiece it has to 
be taken into 
consideration in 
the paring of the 
hoof. 

The winter 
shoe is generally provided with sharp toepiece 
and sharp calk on the outside; but on the inside 
the calk must not be sharpened. Also on winter 
shoeing the riding horse is better off without the 
toepiece and especially so on the hind feet. 

Putting in frostnails means that a couple of 
ordinary nails are replaced by nails with high and 
tempered heads. On the hind legs of riding 
horses frostnails must not be put in the toe. 




Fig. 23. 



— 37 — 

The clip is a turned-up plate hammered out 
from a portion of the shoe. By bending it over 
the edge of the hoof and hammering it into a 
groove pared out on the wall of the hoof, the shoe 
is prevented from being displaced and the hoof is 
protected. Ordinarily the clip is made at the 
toe {toeclip). On horses that are in the habit of 
kicking with the hind hoofs against the stall 
posts, it answers the purpose best to have the clip 
placed on the outside {quarter clip). 

The outside edge of the shoe should be rounded 
and slant inwards to the ground surface of the 
shoe. Fig. 24 shows the section of a horseshoe, the 
shaded parts representing the iron of the branches. 




Fig. 24. 

a. Outside edge. 

b. Upper surface. 

c. Seat. 

d. Fuller. 

e. Toeclip. 

When the horn of the hoof is good it may be 
sufficient for summer shoeing to apply 5 nails in 
each shoe, 3 on the outside and 2 on the inside, 
but for winter shoeing, as a rule, 6 or 7 are required. 

The shoes should be as light as is consistent 
with the work required of the horse. 

Some time after the horse has been shod, 
and especially if used much on hard roads, it may 



-38- 



occur that the ends of the nails have worked 
their way through so as to stand out from the 
surface of the wall, by which the animal may 
easily injure itself, principally on the inside of the 
legs. This should be adjusted as soon as possible. 

Saddlery and its Care. 

The English saddle (Fig. 23), covered with 
pigskin, is acknowledged by horsemen as ''the 
saddle;" it consists of the following parts: 



a. Saddle panel. 

b. Seat (Cantle being 
the hindpart). 

c. Pommel. 

d. Open gullet (Channel). 



ee. Flap, skirt. 

f. Knee roll. 

g. Stirrup leather, 
h. Stirrup iron. 




.9 




Fig. 25. 



— 39 — 

In the choice of a saddle, the shape of the 
horse and the size of the rider have to be taken 
into consideration. This can only be done by 
trying all three together. 

The panel should be shaped exactly after the 
back of the horse, and the seat to the size of the 
rider. A seat which is well rounded on both sides 
prevents the rider from being galled, and a deep 
seat is more comfortable than a flat one. The 
under part of the pommel must lie well up from 
the withers. The skirts ought to have such a 
length as to prevent the tops of the riding-boots 
from interfering with their lower edge; the knee 
rolls must not be so far in front as to offer no 
support for the knees if needed. The stirrup- 
leathers should be rounded at the edges, the 
stirrups light and wide, and during the winter 
provided with bottoms of grey, not coloured, 
felt. 

Cord girths are considered to be the best 
saddle-girths. 

The saddle-cloth, made of felt or very thick 
linen, is only used for the purpose of preventing 
the perspiration from the horse's back penetrating 
the panel. 

A breast-plate is used on horses when the 
saddle is liable to slide backwards; the most 
frequently used is the Hanoverian (Fig. 26). 

The bridle, which is best made of soft, yellow 
leather, may be two kinds: snaffle bridle and 
curb bridle. 



— 40 — 




Fig. 26. 
The snaffle bridle (Fig. 26) consists of: 



a. Headpiece. 

b. Brow band (front) 

c. 2 cheek pieces. 

d. Noseband. 

e. Throatlatch. 



Reins, parted and 
with buckle. 
Snaffle-bit jointed 
in the middle and 
with guard pieces (or 
large rings). 



The curb bridle (Fig. 27) consists of: 
Headpiece, parted in two strap-pieces on each 

side. 
Brow band (front). 
Throatlatch with loose headpiece. 
4 cheek pieces. 
Noseband (may be left out). 
Curb-reins (sewn together). 






41 




Fig. 27. 



Snaffle-reins (parted with buckle). 
2 bits, i.e., curb and snaffle (bridoon), 




The curb-bit {Fig. 28) consists of: 

Mouth piece (a) without joint and with a 
raised middle called port (b), 2 arms (c) with 
fixed rings (d), rein rings (e) and 2 curb-chain 



42 — 



hooks (/), and the curb-chain (g) made of thick 
broad rings and with an extra ring on the middle 
(for the lip-strap). 

The snaffle-bit is without guard pieces. 

The longer the lower part of the arms of the 
curb-bit is, in proportion to the upper part, the 
thinner the mouth piece, and the larger the port 
so much greater is the severity of the bit. The 
width of the mouth piece depends upon that of the 
horse's mouth; the curb-chain hooks should be 
placed so as not to hurt the corners of the mouth 
and not to allow the snaffle-bit to hook itself on 
them. 

A Pelham bit (Fig. 2Q) is something between 
a snaffle and a curb. One kind, which is preferable, 
has the joint of the mouth piece arranged to allow 

motion in a horizon- 
tal direction only. 
The principal advan- 
tage of the Pelham 
is that the snaffle and 
the curb are com- 
bined in one bit; but 
it has also the disad- 
vantage of easily 
making the curb- 
chain to slide upwards so as to gall the sharp 
edges of the lower jaw. 

The Martingale (Fig. 30) or, as it also is 
called, rearing-rein, is used with horses that point 
their nose upwards, throw their head backwards 
or rear. The martingale is used only with the 




— 43 — 




Fig. 30. 



snaffle-reins. In riding with snaffle 
alone, it is advisable to have two pair 
of reins and to pass the lower ones 
through the rings of the martingale. 
The rearing-rein may also be fastened 
on the noseband and should then have 
only one ring; the advantage from 
this is that the rearing-rein does not 
work on the horse's mouth. 

A combination of martingale and 
Hanoverian breast-plate is shown in 
Fig. 26. 

To prevent the horse from strik- 
ing himself during riding, boots are 
used on the fore legs and interfering boots on the 
hind legs. 

The boots (Fig. 
31), which protect 
the inner side of 
shank and fetlock 
joint, are made of 
elastic cloth or thin 
felt of the same 
colour as that of the 
Fl 2- 3 1 - horse's legs; the in- 

ner side of the boots should be padded and covered 
with a thick but soft piece of leather. During the 
breaking, during very hard riding and on horses 
with badly placed fore legs, it is advisable to use 
boots. 

Interfering boots (Fig. 32) , used as protection 
for the pastern joint of the hind legs, are made of 



s^rr-. .'\ 




| 


<-....: 




; 


<•-.•.- 


..\:i 




— 44 




yellow, thick leather, which has been soaked, 
shaped on a form and then padded and lined with 
wash-leather on that part of the inside which is 
placed above the fetlock. On the strap is put a 
pad made of several layers of felt. 

All kinds of boots should 
be made so as to fit each leg. 

Means of protection, as 
above described, may be equal- 
ly needed on horses without 
as well as with shoes. 

The saddlery is preserved 
by keeping it clean and dry 
and the leather soft. All 
things made of iron or steel 
should, when not used, be gone 
over with a greasy cloth. New, yellow leather, 
before being used, ought to be smeared with a 
little salad oil, and, when the oil is absorbed, rubbed 
and polished with English saddle-paste. On the 
pigskin cover of the saddle oil is not applied, but 
only saddle-paste. A similar treatment of the 
leather should also occasionally be given later on 
to protect it against moisture and to prevent it 
from cracking. 

The saddlery ought to be cleaned as soon as 
possible after it has been used, that is to say, 
directly after the cleaning of the horse. First 
the mouth piece is washed, well dried, and, in 
damp weather, gone over with a greasy cloth, then 
the leather of the bridle is rubbed off with a 
moist piece of cloth and afterwards with a dry 



— 45 — 

one; martingale and breast-plate are treated in 
the same manner. Stirrup-leathers with stirrups 
are taken out of the saddle; the stirrup-leathers 
are treated, if they are soiled, the same as the 
bridle; if not, they are only rubbed with a dry 
piece of cloth. The stirrups are rubbed off and 
in damp weather gone over with a greasy cloth. 
The saddle-girths are taken out of the saddle and 
brushed clean from dust and horse hair; if wet, 
they should first be dried; if very dirty, they 
should be washed, which is done by stretching 
them out on a piece of board in which are put 
nails on which the buckles are placed; they are 
then brushed with soap and water and washed 
out with clean water. The board with the girths 
on is then put up to dry in such a manner as not to 
allow the water to run on to the buckles. The 
saddle is placed so that the panel may dry, then 
the latter is beaten and brushed. The cover of 
the saddle is cleaned with a moist piece of cloth 
or sponge, and is rubbed dry with wash-leather 
or a piece of linen. Saddle-cloths of felt are dried, 
beaten and brushed. If the felt has been used for 
some time, and often been soaked through with 
sweat from the horse, it will at last become stiff 
and hard and then require washing in the same 
manner as ordinary woolen stuff is washed. Boots 
should not be washed; if wet, they should be 
dried before being brushed, and the leather should 
be greased. 

The saddlery should be kept in a dry place, 
but not in the stable. 



- 4 6- 

Before saddling the horse, the saddlery should 
first be dusted off and brushed, mouth piece and 
stirrups thoroughly rinsed from oil and, if neces- 
sary, from rust, and then polished; the spring of 
the stirrup-leather bar is looked at and oiled. 

Do not delay having necessary repairs done, 
for "a stitch in time saves nine." 



Saddling and Bridling. 

Whether obliged to saddle the horse yourself 
or to have it done by some one else, every rider 
must understand when the saddling is rightly 
done; because on a careful saddling depends, to a 
great extent, the welfare of the horse, as well as 
the safety of the rider. 

Previous to the saddling ascertain if the 
saddlery is clean, in good shape and rightly put 
together. The saddle-cloth and the panel of the 
saddle are examined, and on neither should hard 
unevennesses be found. Stirrup-leathers with 
stirrups are put on the bars, the springs of which 
are closed. The buckle of the stirrup-leather 
should be on the outside and close up to the bar. 
The stirrups are moved up along the under part 
of the stirrup-leathers, which are passed through 
the openings of the stirrups from above. The 
girths should be buckled on the right side of the 
saddle. In the putting together of the bridle it 
should be observed that the bits are fixed so that 
they are placed rightly in the mouth of the horse, 



— 47 — 

when the bridle is put on, that the reins are rightly 
buckled, and that the noseband is so arranged 
that it may be buckled on the left side just behind 
the cheek piece. With a curb bridle the noseband 
is placed in the front cheek pieces, in which the 
curb-bit is put. On the curb bridle it is often 
found that the snaffle-bit is put in a loose head- 
piece, which is passed underneath the principal 
headpiece and through the stalls of the brow 
band, which allows the bit to be pulled out of the 
horse's mouth easily; the throatlatch, however, 
may be very well arranged in this manner (see 
Fig. 27). The cheek pieces should be buckled so 
as to make them even in length on both sides. 

Having ascertained the condition of th e 
saddlery and the defects, if any, being adjusted, 
it may be placed ready for saddling in the following 
manner : 

The saddle, with stirrups drawn up, the 
double folded saddle-cloth placed over the seat 
and the girths on the top, should be placed on a 
saddle-bracket, which ought to be of the same 
length as the saddle, and fastened on the stall post 
behind the horse. The bridle, with unbuckled 
throatlatch and noseband, is placed with its 
headpiece on a bracket under the saddle and with 
the reins over the headpiece. 

The saddlery thus arranged, the saddling is 
done in the following manner: 

The saddle with saddle-cloth is taken on the 
left arm, the pommel towards the man's shoulder, 
and, in going up to the near side of the horse, the 



-48- 

saddle-cloth is taken by the right hand and placed, 
with the rounded corners in front, evenly on the 
horse's back, the foremost edge of the cloth 
lying close behind or somewhat over the play of 
the shoulder. The cloth must not be pushed 
against the hair of the horse, but it should be 
raised and moved forward if placed too far back. 
The saddle is then taken with the right hand at 
the can tie and with the left one under the pommel, 
and is raised above the horse's back and placed 
evenly on the saddle-cloth with the front edge 
of the saddle about a hand's breadth behind the 
play of the shoulders; the right hand lets the 
girths carefully down on the off side of the horse; 
passing around to the off side of the horse, the 
skirt and girths are adjusted so as to lie flat to the 
sides of the animal. The girths being divided, the 
back one is placed somewhat over the one in 
front. Then, passing again round to the near 
side of the horse, the saddle-cloth is raised well 
under the pommel with the left hand, while the 
right one supports the saddle. The girths are 
then loosely drawn on each strap, the front one 
first, after which the cloth is smoothed and again 
raised under the pommel, and the hair on the 
withers pulled forward. The girths are then 
tightened by degrees, while with the fingers in 
under the girths, possible folds of the skin are 
smoothed. The girths must not be drawn tighter 
than to admit the hand as far as the thumb being 
passed easily between them and the horse's side. 



— 49 — 

After riding for awhile the girths may need 
tightening. 

In passing around from one side of the horse to 
the other, it should be observed that the saddle 
does not slide off; for this reason on very nervous 
animals the girths should be drawn loosely before 
passing round to the off side in order to arrange 
the skirt and girths. 

On most saddles there are three girth-straps. 
By drawing the girths on the two front ones or 
the two rear ones, the saddle may be raised accor- 
dingly somewhat at the back or at the front; 
but its sliding forwards and backwards can only 
be prevented by an exact fitting of the panel to 
the back of the horse. 

Having fixed the saddle, the bridle is taken 
and placed with the headpiece and reins on the 
left arm and, in going up to the near side of the 
horse, the halter is taken off and fastened to the 
rack or the ring for the tie ; the right hand takes the 
reins and passes them over the horse's head, 
letting them rest on his neck; the left hand takes 
hold of the horse's nose. The right hand takes 
the headpiece and lifts it up towards the horse's 
forehead, while the left hand lets go the nose of 
the horse and takes the mouth piece and, by 
raising the headpiece, inserts the bit into the 
mouth of the horse, which is opened by pressing 
on the gum with the thumb of the left hand; the 
headpiece is passed above the horse's ears, which 
are drawn gently forward with the left hand; 
the forelock is arranged over the brow band, the 

4 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 5 o — 

throatlatch is drawn sufficiently slack to admit 
the breadth of four fingers between it and the 
throttle. The noseband, being placed two finger- 
breadths below the projecting cheek bone, and 
with its buckle on the near side, should admit one 
finger between it and the nose bone. If curb 
bridle is used, the noseband should pass under the 
cheek pieces of the snaffle; the curb-chain is 
fastened on the off curb-chain hook and passed 
under the rings of the snaffle-bit, then, in twisting 
it until it becomes flat and with the extra ring 
on the middle hanging downwards, it is fastened 
with the lower part of that ring, which suits, on 
the near curb-chain hook, the curb-chain being 
loose enough when the arms of the curb-bit, by 
feeling the reins, are forming an angle of 45 
with the lower jaw. If the curb-chain has more 
rings than needed, they are to hang above and 
behind the hooks and with even number on both 
sides or with the greater number on the near side. 

The horse having very sharp jaw bones, and 

consequently being liable to be galled in the chin 

groove, the curb-chain, after first being laid flat and 

smooth, should be placed in a curb-chain guard 

made of rubber (Fig. jj) ; leather 

may also be used, but it will 

soon become hard and stiff on 

„. account of the saliva from the 

Fjg- 33- 

horse's mouth. 

The cheek pieces should be adjusted so that 

the snaffle-bit touches the corners of the mouth, 

but without drawing them up; and the mouth 



— 5i — 



piece of the curb should be placed directly opposite 
the chin groove, but without touching the nippers 
or tusks. 

If the horse be in the bad habit of taking the 
arms of the curb-bit between his teeth (bite the 
curb) a small strap (lip-strap) may be placed 
between the arms and through the extra ring on 
the curb-chain (Fig. 28). 

In using the martingale it should be put on 
before the saddle. On unfastening the tie from 
the halter, the neck-strap of the martingale is put 
round the horse's neck and the tie again fastened. 
Then the saddling goes on as above described, not 
forgetting to pass the girths through the loop of 
the martingale before the girths are drawn. The 
martingale should be so fixed that the reins are 
kept horizontal when the rider's hand is level with 
the withers. 

Without interfering with the motions of the 
horse, the breast-plate should be 
so fitted that the saddle may be 
kept in its place. 

The boots should be put on 
so that the straps come from the 
front and the buckles from the 
rear (Fig. 34), the lower strap 
being buckled first, while the 
lower edge of the boots is kept a 
little above the fetlock, on which 
the boot should rest. The boots 
should not be buckled tighter than 
to admit one finger between their Fig 




— 52 — 

upper edge and the back tendons. Before the 
boots are put on, it should be observed that 
the inner side of them is without any unevenness, 
and that the back tendons and the pastern joint 
are stroked several times with the hand along the 
hair. 

The interfering boots should be put on in a 
way that the strap, without pressing, rests on the 
fetlock with the buckle at the back of it and 
with the pad, which is on the strap, placed 
between the cannon bone and the back tendons. 
If the felt pad is sewn to that part of the strap, 
which answers the purpose, the boots will rest 
more steadily. 

If proper attention is not paid to the fitting 
of the boots they may easily do more harm than 
good. They are always put on before saddling. 

Unsaddling and Unbridling. 

The "Unsaddling" is done from the near 
side of the horse and in the reverse order of the 
"Saddling": 

The lip-strap — if such is used — is unfastened, 
the curb-chain is taken off, noseband and throat- 
latch are unbuckled. If martingale with two 
rings has been used, the bridoon-reins should be 
unbuckled. The bridle is then gently taken off 
and with its headpiece and the reins placed on the 
bend of the left arm, the halter is put on and the 
bridle is hung up. The breast-plate, if worn, is 
unbuckled from the saddle on the near side, the 



— 53 — 

girths are unbuckled and drawn out of the loop 
of the martingale or the breast-plate. With a 
grasp of the left hand under the pommel, the 
saddle is lifted up from the horse's back, while 
the right hand removes the saddle-cloth over the 
croup and places it folded across the seat of the 
saddle. Taking hold of the pommel with the left 
hand and the cantle with the right, the saddle is 
lifted sufficiently to allow the saddle-skirt on the 
off side to pass clear of the horse's back, after 
which the saddle, while being held close to the 
horse's near side, is lowered until the girths of 
themselves drop across the saddle-cloth. The 
breast-plate should be placed over the girths, 
and the saddle is hung up. By then unfastening 
the halter-rope, the martingale can be taken off. 
Leaving out what has been said about the curb- 
chain, a snaffle bridle is taken off in the same 
manner as the full bridle. 



Packing the Saddle. 

On long rides various things should be carried 
along, as much for the welfare of the horse as well 
as for that of the rider, as it may be difficult to 
procure them at places where rests are taken or 
where one intends to stay for the night. The 
packing consists of such things arranged in the 
pack equipment, which has been made for this 
purpose, and which should be as light as possible 
and so arranged on the horse's back as not to 
cause galls and also so that the total weight may 



— 54 



be evenly divided on fore and hind part. The 
minimum weight of the packing is obtained by 
diminishing the things that are needed to the 
most necessary ones, and by choosing them and 
the equipment from as light material as is con- 
sistent with their durability. On account of the 
horse's fore part being more loaded by the weight 
of the rider than the hind part, the weight will 
be more evenly divided if the principal part of the 
packing be placed behind the rider. 

For the sake of the horse the fol- 
lowing things should be carried along: 
Halter with tie, 

horsecloth with a loose breast piece 
and two blanket pins (Fig. 33), 

surcingle (formed of the saddle- 
pack and a divided strap-piece (Fig. 38) 
buckled to the saddle-girths), some 
horse-shoe nails and a light hammer 
and, if there is room for them, 4 linen 
bandages. 

With regard to what the rider might 
want for his own use, it is important, as 
above mentioned, that this be dimin- 
ished to the minimum. Rain-cloak, stockings, 
shoes or slippers and toilet things should not 
be forgotten. 

A small jar with cerat or vaseline and a small 
wooden covered bottle containing carbolic acid 
should not be wanting in the rider's packing. 

The most necessary articles in a pack equip- 
ment are: 



— 55 — 

I. Two saddlebags made of waterproof canvas 
(Fig. 36, a) joined together with a thin leather 
piece, in which an incision is made for the 
can tie to fit in, and provided with loops and 
two loose straps with buckles for their fastening 
to the saddle-girths. 



^pspsyss*^ 




A saddle-pack (Fig. 37 A) 
of which the upper side 
is of leather and pro- 
vided with two loops (a) 
and two short straps with 
buckles (b) for the fas- 
tening of the pack to the 
rings on the cantle (see 
Fig. 25); the under part 
is made of flannel and padded like the panel 
of a saddle (Fig. 37 B). 




Fig. 36, b. 



-56- 



III 



Two separate straps for the saddle-pack, 
which are put through the loops a (Fig. 37 A) 

and rolled together when not in 

use (Fig. jS). 

In the case of saddling with 

packing, the halter is kept on the 

horse and the bridle is put outside 

it, or the halter may be so ar- 
ranged that the bit with the 

reins can be fastened by small 

straps or snaps to the rings on the 

sides of the halter-noseband, 

thereby making the halter a part 




Fig. 37- 

of the bridle. If in such case the 
curb-bit is used, it is preferable 
to use the Pelham. If the horse 
can be tied with a halter-rein, 
one end of it may then remain 



— 57 — 

in the halter, and the other end may be fastened 
in the near pommel ring (see Fig. 25). If the 
horse must be tied with an iron chain, it should 
be placed in a leather bag and packed in one of 
the saddlebags. Nails and hammer are likewise 
placed in a leather bag. The horsecloth, 3 feet 
9 inches long and 5 feet 3 inches broad, is also 
used as saddle-cloth by being folded into four 
thicknesses, and thus placing it on the horse's 
back, the open edges in front and on the near 
side of the horse, and so far back that the saddle- 
pack may rest on the cloth. The loose breast 
piece, which, when used as cover, should be 
fastened on both sides to the cloth by the two 
blanket pins, is rolled together with the rider's 
rain-cloak, and the whole secured by the straps to 
the saddle-pack. When the cloth is used for 
covering up the horse, the pack itself should then 
form a part of the surcingle by passing a divided 
strap piece (Fig. 38) through the loops a (Fig. 
37 A) and be buckled to the saddle-girths. When 
not used, the strap piece should be placed in one 
of the saddle-bags. 

All other articles needed for the horse and 
the rider are placed in the saddlebags in a way to 
make them of even weight. 

When the horse has been saddled, and the 
saddlebags and the saddle-pack have been packed, 
the pack equipment is put on by first fastening 
the pack firmly, and close to the saddle; then 
the saddlebags are placed with their middle piece 
on the seat and with the cantle partly through 



- 5 8- 

the incision; after which their straps are passed 
under the saddle-girths and buckled, the buckles 
being placed under the skirts. 

The packing is taken off in the reverse order. 

During long rests the packing should be 
taken off,, but the saddle should be left on for 
some time, for instance, i to 2 hours after half 
a day's ride. If there be no guard and there is 
danger of the horse lying down, it is advisable 
to take the saddle off, but the saddle-cloth must, 
in any case, be kept on and be fastened by the 
surcingle until the horse is somewhat cooled off, 
when the cloth is folded out and the breast piece 
put on. 

If, for some reason or other, the rider, when 
on foot, needs to bring his packing with him for a 
longer distance, he may for this purpose provide 
himself with two rug-strap handles, the ends of one 
being hooked by a snap hook in the loops placed 
at the lid of the saddlebags (Fig. 36, b), the 
middle piece being bent down and the straps 
(for fastening them to the girths) taken out. 
The other handle may be used as an ordinary 
rug-strap by passing the two loose saddle-pack 
straps through the loops of the handle; the things, 
formerly being carried on the saddle-pack, may 
be brought in this rug-strap. 



Grooming and Care of Horses. 

It is not said without reason about the horse, 
that the grooming is half the food, because on proper 






59 — 



care depends, in a great measure, the health and 
welfare of the animal, consequently, its stamina. 

By proper grooming is not only meant that 
the horse, when led before the rider, shall look 
clean and smooth; for it does not unfrequently 
happen that a shiny surface covers thick layers 
of dust and dirt which clog the pores of the skin, 
thus preventing the secretion, which otherwise 
occurs through them. To ascertain if the horse 
is properly cleaned, one need only pass the fingers 
through and against the hair; if this leaves grey 
stripes on the coat the grooming has been deficient. 
The head, the neck, under the mane, the legs, 
especially the knees, hocks and pasterns, should 
be examined carefully. 

For the grooming of a horse the following 
articles are required: 



Curry comb. 

Horse brush. 

Mane comb of horn or 
metal. 

Hoof pick (Fig. 39) of 
iron (a) or bone (b). 

Hoof brush (Fig. 40) . 

Pastern cleansers made 
of two thicknesses of 
flannel strips, about 2 
inches broad and 2 



feet 6 inches long, 
which are sewn to- 
gether lengthways by 
several seams. 

Sponge. 

Towel. 

A duster of horse's tail 
or a piassava brush. 

A large flannel rag. 

Straw-wads. 



After being used, the grooming articles should 
be dried and cleaned outside the stable. The 
curry comb, horse brush, duster and flannel 
rags should not be kept in the stable. 



— 6o 




Fig. 39. 



The curry comb is principally 
used in removing the dust from 
the horse brush; it may, however, 
also be used on horses whose skin 
is not too sensitive, and then only 
to loosen the scurf and matted 
hair. On the head and on the legs 
below the knees or hocks, the curry 
comb is not used, except to gently 
loosen dried mud from the legs. 




Fig. 40. 



The horse brush is used on the hairy parts 
and principally with the natural direction of the 
hair, but it must never be used on parts that are 
wet. On the shanks, knees and hocks, and on 
very dirty parts, the brush may be used against, 
as well as with, the hair. Forelock, mane and 
tail are brushed carefully, the hair being first 
parted with the fingers and then combed. 

With the hoof pick all grit and dirt are 
removed from the under surface of the hoof, 
after which the whole hoof is brushed with water. 

The back of the pastern is rubbed dry' and 
cleaned with the pastern cleanser which, with 
one end in each hand, is drawn slowly and not 
too firmly to and fro under the pastern joint. 

With the wet sponge the eyelids (eye-corners) , 



— 61 — 

nose, nostrils, lips, chin, dock, and the parts 
between the hind legs and under the tail are 
cleaned, altogether the hairless parts, after 
which they are dried with a towel. 

The duster or piassava brush is used for 
removing loose dust and loose hair; the coat is 
smoothed with a flannel rag or a towel. 

For straw-wads it is best to use long straw, 
which is turned so as to form a rope, which again 
is bent double, thereby twisting itself. 

To loosen the dust on horses who are very 
ticklish, which is especially the case during the 
shedding of the coat, straw-wads or loose straw 
are applied rather than the brush; but straw- 
wads are principally used to rub off the horse 
when the coat is greasy, wet, or in a per- 
spiration. 

If some parts of the horse should need washing, 
it must be done cautiously and, as a rule, not in 
cold and damp weather; in any case, the washed 
parts have to be rubbed dry immediately. The 
yellowish-brown spots, which light-coloured horses 
often get by lying down, should be cleansed 
with lukewarm water and soap; such spots may 
also, some time before the washing, be rubbed 
with moist, powdered charcoal. For the washing 
of the horse, the hoof brush or wet straw- wad may 
be used. 

On badly groomed horses the hair in the 
forelock, mane and tail is often found to be matted 
on account of greasy grey dust, which causes 
itching; it should be removed by lukewarm 



— 62 — 

water and soap, with which forelock, crest, mane 
and the root of the tail are brushed; the tail 
itself is rinsed in a pail of water, the soap being 
washed out well with clean water, then afterwards 
pressed well out of the hair; the hair should not 
be wrung. If, nevertheless, the horse rubs the 
root of his tail against the sides of the stall, it 
should be examined to see if the evil is not caused 
by dust under the tail or by worms. 

In the udder of the mare and in the sheath 
of the male animal there is sometimes found, on 
badly groomed horses, a black, greasy substance, 
which should be removed by the fingers, after 
which the place is washed with a sponge, dried with 
towels and, if necessary, greased. 

When the horse is shedding the coat, the 
loose hair should be removed by wetting the 
points of the fingers and stroking them in the 
natural direction of the hair, but not harder than 
sufficient to cause the loose hair to come off. 

Before a groomed and ready saddled horse is 
brought out for the rider, the forelock, mane and 
tail should be brushed, all loose hair and dust, 
which might appear during the saddling, as well 
on the horse as on the saddlery, are wiped off 
with the towel, and the hoofs are cleaned with wet 
hoof brush. For the sake of appearance, smearing 
a sound and healthy hoof with any kind of hoof- 
dressing should not be allowed; a clean washed 
hoof is a better and more lasting trimming, as 
the dressing causes dirt and dust to stick to the 
hoof — but what is of still more importance, the 



-6 3 - 

dressing prevents the favourable influence of the 
air and the moisture on the horn. 

Halter, horsecloth and surcingle should be 
cleaned in the open air and every day; the halter, 
while the horse is out, the cloth and surcingle at 
the times when the horse is groomed. The halter 
and surcingle should be brushed and the cloth 
shaken ; once or twice a week the latter should be 
aired and beaten. Both the summer and the winter 
horsecloth should be washed at least once a year, 
care being taken that the buckles and straps of 
the breast piece are first removed. The halter 
should, when taken off the horse, be hung up and 
not placed on the floor. The cloth is taken off 
by first opening the straps of the breast piece, 
then the surcingle, and with the left hand from 
the front, sweeping both off at the same time and 
in the direction of the croup. The cloth is folded 
up properly and, together with the surcingle, 
hung up behind the horse, but not thrown over 
the partitions of the stall. 

For horses with thin and fine coat, the head- 
piece of the halter and also the noseband may 
be lined with sheep's wool, so as not to cause gall. 
The surcingle should be provided with panel to be 
placed over the horse's back, and the cloth cut 
so as not to gall the withers. 

After the ride, the horse must be treated with 
the greatest care, and for this reason the grooming, 
which is done after the ride, should be looked after 
more than that which is done previous to it. I 
am sorry to say that it happens too frequently 



-6 4 - 

that the horse, upon returning to the stable, is 
placed in the stall, tied, unsaddled, and otherwise 
left to itself. To feed and water directly after the 
horse has returned from work should not be 
allowed. To ascertain if the animal, after being 
used, is properly cared for, it is advisable to make 
a visit to the stable at once, and, if the time does 
not allow you to stay there during the whole of the 
grooming, you had better come back again after 
an hour's time. Of course, the grooming may be 
arranged according to how weather and roads 
have been, and the exertions that the horse has 
undergone. 

When the horse has returned after the ride 
and has been tied up, the saddle-girths are loosened 
somewhat; if boots of any kind have been in use, 
they are taken off, and the legs of the horse are 
rubbed with straw-wisps with and against the 
direction of the hair, finally only with; the back 
of the pastern is well cleaned. It is considered 
very useful to apply massage to the back tendons 
and the pastern joint by repeatedly stroking with 
the thumb on one side and the other fingers on 
the other side and in the direction of the hair. If 
the saddle need not stay on for a longer time, it is 
then taken off, and the horse is rubbed with a 
dry straw- wad in each hand, while one wad is 
moved with, the other against, the hair; the back, 
belly and breast are rubbed first, then the other 
parts of the body; as soon as one wad has become 
wet it is changed with a new one. If the horse be 
disposed to fits of colic, or in order to prevent such 



-6 5 - 

accesses when, from muddy ground, and especially 
in cold weather, the animal's belly has become 
moist, this part must first be attended to and be 
rubbed thoroughly dry and warm. A rug should 
always be thrown over the back and loins, when 
other parts of the horse are attended to. When 
the horse, in this manner, has been rubbed dry, his 
coat is smoothed and the cloth and surcingle 
put on, after which the head is wiped off, the tail, 
if needed, is washed, the hoofs are cleaned, and 
the legs bandaged. 

For bandages is used either the ordinary 
elastic cotton bandages or flannel ones which are 
to be 4 or 5 inches broad and about 3 yards 
long, and with the one end laid in a point, to 
which are fastened two ribbons each about 20 
inches long. Cotton bandages are used especially 
during the hot season and may then, in order 
to prevent swollen legs and before being put 
on, be soaked in water, or still better, in water 
mixed with a little spirits of wine, the water to be 
squeezed out well. Wet bandages must not be 
applied before the legs have been cooled off, but 
dry ones may. With the ribbons inmost, the 
bandage is rolled together to form a firm roll, 
which is taken in one hand and is unwound 4 to 6 
inches; the other hand places the unwound end 
round the shank a little below the knee or hock 
and keeps it firm and close into the horse's leg, 
while the roll is passed over the end, and the 
bandage is gradually rolled round by letting it 
pass slantingly downwards close into and round 

5 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 66 — 

the leg in a manner that each following turn of the 
bandage somewhat covers over the previous one; 
when past the pastern joint, the roll may, without 
being reversed, in a like manner be moved up- 
wards. Without any pressure, the ribbons are 
wound round the leg and tied together at the back 
of the leg. Bandages may stay on from 2 to 4 
hours and should in no case be applied on wet 
legs. After removing the bandages, the legs 
should be well hand-rubbed. 

Every time the horse is groomed, his whole 
body should be examined to see if there be any 
external injuries, and also his condition in other 
respects, about which it will be explained under 
"Treatment of Sick Horses." 

If weather and other circumstances allow 
it, the grooming should be done in the open air. 

The clipping of horses is a precarious question 
and depends entirely upon climatic conditions 
and the condition of the horse's coat. In cold, 
temperate and dry climates, clipping is rarely 
done nor needed if the coat is kept in good condi- 
tion by proper grooming; whereas it may be 
needed in warm and damp climates, according to 
the nature of the coat and for the sake of the 
horse's well-being. Horses, with a heavy coat 
that sheds slowly and sparingly, will generally 
become sluggish if not clipped. If the conditions 
be such as to admit a natural shedding of the coat, 
clipping should be avoided. Careful grooming, 
proper feed and sufficient exercise may accelerate 
the shedding. The part covered by the saddle 



-6 7 - 

should never be clipped, and on hunters the lower 
part of the legs should also remain undipped, as 
also on horses with rheumatic propensities. 

By careful grooming and proper blanketing 
the horse's winter coat may, in many cases, be 
kept in such a state as to render clipping needless. 

The coat of a clipped horse loses that glossy 
appearance which the natural coat may assume 
by proper treatment. 



The Riding-School. 

As probably riding may, by the majority of 
readers, be looked upon particularly as a pleasant 
mode of taking exercise, it should especially be 
practised in the open air; still, it should be evident 
to everybody that it would not be advisable to go 
out on the road at once; in that respect there are 
enough of warnings amongst the so-called Sunday 
riders, who have too soon left the four protecting 
and reticent walls of the riding-school. 

An open manege, enclosed by low walls or 
fenced in, should thus seem to provide for all that 
concerns health and safety. The more lively 
temper of the horse when in open air, causing 
freer and higher actions, and also other outward 
influences, which may bring about unexpected 
movements of the animal, will make the riding- 
house a necessary evil for the beginner. 

A riding-school should be well ventilated 
and light and have an elastic but firm ground and 
sufficient space. 



— 68 — 

On account of the strong perspiration from 
both horse and rider, good ventilation is required 
in riding-houses more than in dwelling-houses; 
but to let in the fresh air from all sides should be 
avoided — many old "ring-riders" have thus, 
through carelessness, contracted many cases of 
rheumatism. A well-built riding-school, which 
is free from draught, must not be kept hermetically 
sealed during the winter from fear of letting out 
any of the warmth; in sacrificing five minutes 
between each hour, leaving the doors open, fresh 
air will pour in in abundance. During such an 
airing one should not stay in the school. In not 
removing the droppings from the manege, the 
air becomes especially unhealthy. By partly 
removing the droppings and by occasionally 
putting on a thin layer of fresh sawdust from pine- 
wood, the air may be kept pure, and it will save 
the expense caused by removing the old covering 
and renewing it. 

A firm and elastic riding-ground may be 
obtained by filling it with clay at the bottom and 
rolling it, then on the top of this a layer of fine 
gravel, which is sprinkled with water, rolled and 
left to dry; the whole is then covered with even 
parts of coarse sand and sawdust, or with tan- 
bark about 3 inches in depth. A thicker covering 
and especially more sand would make it heavy for 
the horse to move on and, consequently, strain 
his legs too much. If coarse mould, in whole or in 
part, be used instead of sand, the ground would 
become more firm and, therefore, make it easier 



-6 9 - 

for the horse to move; but from economical 
reasons mould is only used in very small maneges 
such as circus rings. 

In riding-halls that are not heated, it may 
occur during the winter that the ground gets 
frozen; this may, however, be prevented by 
strewing on some salt. By using sand taken from 
the seaside the ground would not so easily be 
frozen. 

As it has been observed that the hoofs, when 
being much in contact with saline ground, will 
suffer from it, a careful cleansing of them is of 
more importance then than at other times. 

The ordinary shape of a manege is the rectan- 
gular one, the length being twice or three times 
the breadth, with, respectively, one or two yards 
added to the length in order to allow riders, who 
are moving at the same time on different "great 
circles," to pass one another. The average size of 
a manege should be 41 yards. by 20 or 62 by 20. 
If the space at one's disposal be not large enough 
and of quadrangular shape, there may be laid out 
a circular manege; its diameter should, however, 
not be less than 42 feet. Circular riding-houses 
are economical in every respect, their structure 
is plain, and they are more practical for the 
purpose of training and teaching than a square 
one of the same area would be. 

The line staked out for riding-ground, and 
on which the horse moves, is called the hoof mark, 
the trace or the track. 

In riding along the sides (walls) of the school, 



— 70 — 

the side, which is towards the interior of the 
manege, is named the inner or inward; the other 
side is the outer or outward. In turnings, riding in 
circles, and, on the whole, in bending lessons (which 
will be entered into later on) the inner or inward 
side is the one to which the turning, the circle, or 
the bending is made. The different parts of the 
horse, the rider and the saddlery are named ac- 
cordingly, i.e., inner leg, outward rein, etc. 

The ride is to the right or on the right hand, 
when the right hand is towards the interior of the 
manege and vice- versa. 

When riders meet each other on the sides of 
the school, the rider, who is on the left hand, should 
always take off from the side, and do it betimes 
and sufficiently to avoid collisions. When passing 
a rider in front, it should be done on the inner side, 
and the passing rider should, before resuming his 
place at the boards, advance sufficiently that he 
may not disturb the former. If a rider, being on 
the great circle, meets another one who is on the 
side of the school, the former should take off from 
the side. If the horse is brought to a halt, it should 
not be done at the sides of the school. If two or 
more are riding abreast, when there are other 
riders present in the school, and are not riding on 
the same hand and at the same pace as the latter, 
the former should keep inside the hoofmark. 

If ladies be present in the school, it is custom- 
ary to ride on the same hand as they do; at any 
rate, they should not be expected to turn aside. 

In overcrowded schools, the riders being 



— 7i — 

probably of extremely different ability, the ride 
should be kept on the same hand, and those walk- 
ing their horses should keep not less than 6 feet 
inside the hoofmark. 

Last, but not least: "Do not sit gazing at your 
hands and legs, but open your eyes and close your 
fingers in order to uphold the rules of the school!" 



Second Part. Riding Instruction. 



Though it is impossible to learn to ride by 
theory only, still the written instruction is of 
great advantage to the pupil when judiciously 
combined with actual practise. That is, if the 
pupil ride first and read afterward he will more 
readily comprehend and remember what the in- 
structor has taught, thereby avoiding unnecessary 
repetitions of statements during the riding hour; 
for every pupil, however apt, unconsciously and 
repeatedly makes the same mistakes, especially 
during the first lessons, when all his energies are 
concentrated on "staying with" the horse. And 
the constant repetition of apparently unimportant 
detail, often so impatiently heard by the pupil, 
is essential if he wishes to become a good rider. 

When a pupil particularly likes a certain 
horse, he often wants to ride that one and no other 
during the entire course of instruction. This 
should never be allowed when it is possible to 
vary the mounts, for each animal presents new 
difficulties, which are better faced and overcome 
while the pupil is under supervision. 



— 74 — 

The object of lessons in riding is to give the 
pupil a safe and graceful seat and proper control 
of the horse; to accomplish the latter, a good 
seat — one without dependence on the reins — is 
absolutely necessary. Therefore, when the oppor- 
tunity offers, the first lessons ought to be given 
without allowing reins in the hands of the pupil, 
the horse being held in "longe" by the instructor; 
or else the pupil may be mounted on an old and 
steady school-horse, which keeps a regular pace 
and moves willingly upon the track (next to the 
wall) without being guided by the reins. They 
may begin on a saddle with stirrups, later advanc- 
ing to a blanket only, and finishing, to his lasting 
benefit, on a saddle without stirrups. 

The blanket used for riding is the one men- 
tioned on p. 57. It is folded four times, and placed 
with the longest side along the horse's back, with 
its open sides in front and on the off side, and so 
far forward to allow room for the rider behind 
the surcingle (without panel), with which the 
blanket is fastened. That part of the blanket, 
which lies in front of the surcingle, is folded to- 
gether so as to form a firm roll (Fig. 41, page 91). 
When riding on saddle without stirrups, the 
stirrup-leathers should always be taken out of the 
bars, not merely taken up in front of the saddle. 

Gymnastics on horseback add greatly to 
attaining a safe seat. These are done while riding 
without the help of reins, first at the stand, later 
on during motion, and in the following order: 



— 75 — 

i. Hands on hips with loose wrists and well 
lowered shoulders. 

2. Bending trunk forward, backward and side- 
ways at the same time keeping seat and legs 
in proper position. 

3. Twisting the trunk in different directions, 
taking care to keep hips at a right angle to the 
length of the horse's body. 

4. Moving the arms — somewhat more slowly than 
during gymnastics on foot. 

5. Moving the legs, either alternately or both 
together, over the neck or the croup of the 
horse (here the hands may assist). These 
motions are a part of the real "Voltige on the 
living horse," since the hands principally 
carry the weight of the body. During this 
practice, the pupil learns the position used by 
a woman in side-saddle, both on near and 
far side. 

6. Jumping on and off the horse without stirrups 
and during motion. The pupil takes position 
on the inner side of the horse, i.e., the side 
turned towards centre of ring, and, with both 
feet together, springs from the ground at the 
same instant as the horse's inner fore leg is 
put on the ground. In jumping on, the hands 
must be used to prevent the rider from coming 
down too heavily on the animal's back; in 
jumping up, taking an astride position, 
alighting too heavily may also be prevented by 
pressing the thighs slightly together at the 
moment of impact. In jumping off the horse 



- 7 6- 




This picture illustrates how a young Norwegian cavalry office 1 . 
goes through the drill in "voltige on horseback" which consists d 
the different ways of placing the legs in jumping from the groum 
up on the [horse, and, while seated, the moving of the rider' \ 
legs (one or both at a time) over the neck or croup of the hors& 
thus taking alternately cross and side saddle'* position (the lattes 
to the inward and outward side), the rider facing to the frofi 
or to the rear; it is executed with and without the aid of the handi 
using both or only one. "Scissoring" the legs to the rear am 
to the front; turning somersaults to either side 0/ the horse" 
neck, the rider landing on his feet, are also practised, beside 
other features. These movements of the rider are executed at tJ^ 
stand as well as at the different paces. 



— 77 — 

during motion, care must be taken that the 
rider lands on the ground with his feet by the 
side of the horse's fore foot, facing in the 
same direction as the horse, and with chest 
out and body balanced. 

Throwing practise, in which the pupil throws 
up a ball, a cap, or a whip, and catches it 
again. Later on, pupil and teacher may 
throw to each other. 



Leading the Horse, Dismounted or Mounted. 

A horse should be led slowly out of the stall, 
whether he has been turned first or not, and in 
either case letting him get out from the stall a 
whole length before turning him to the side. 

If the horse is to be led only a few steps 
straight forward or backward, place yourself in 
front of him, take a snaffle-rein in each hand close 
to the bit, and draw him with you or force him 
away from you, in the first case without looking 
him in the eyes. If, while backing, he should 
throw his hind quarters to one side, straighten 
him out by pressing with the rein on that side to 
which they fly out, thereby bending the head and 
neck somewhat to this same side. Lead through a 
door in the same manner. 

If a horse is quiet and to be led only a short 
distance, the snafne-reins are to be held with the 
right hand, the forefinger between them, close 
under his chin, the back of the hand held upward. 
Walk on the near side of the horse, keeping time 



- 7 8- 

with him and about half-way between his head and 
shoulder. When trotting the horse, the reins may 
slide and be held at a length sufficient to allow 
the man leading to run at the horse's shoulder. 

If a horse is nervous or is to be led on foot a 
longer distance, the snaffle-reins are taken from 
his neck, the right hand holding them as before, 
the left hand, with the arm hanging straight down 
by the side, holding the end of the reins. If the 
horse is equipped with a curb bridle, then both 
snaffle- and curb-reins may be taken from his 
neck and held as described above. Always remove 
the curb-chain before leading. If a whip is carried, 
hold it in the left hand with the point down. 

When a horse hangs back and does not lead 
well, press the knuckles of the right hand against 
his lower jaw, at the same time urging him on by 
"clucking" to him. If, on the other hand, he 
rushes forward and cannot be stopped by ordinary 
means, throw the left hand suddenly up in front 
of his eyes, or, where there is room enough, turn 
him round and round several times in a circle to 
the left, after which proceed straight forward 
again. 

If he attempts to kick, bring his nose sharply 
upward by stretching out the right arm. If he 
attempts to shove against you, press the right 
elbow firmly against the animal's neck, and bend 
his head towards you. 

If the horse rears and cuts the air with his 
fore legs, lengthen the reins by letting them slide 
through the hand, hang back a little, and punish 



— 79 — 

him with a few moderate jerks in the mouth. 
When he "comes down," talk soothingly, shorten 
the reins again, and proceed as before. 

If the person leading the horse is afraid of 
being struck, he may walk by the horse's side, 
holding the off rein and a whip (if desired) with 
the point down, in the right hand, the right arm 
resting across the horse's back, and the near rein 
in the left hand close to the horse's shoulder. 

If a rider is leading a horse in hand, i.e., 
riding one horse and leading another, he keeps 
the latter close to his right side, holding him with 
the snaffle-reins, which have been brought over the 
horse's head. If a horse led in hand wears a curb 
bridle, the curb-chain should be taken off, and if 
the curb-reins are joined by a buckle, they may be 
unbuckled and passed under those of the snaffle 
(previously passed over his head) back onto the 
horse's neck, and buckled together again; by 
this arrangement, the snaffle-reins cannot inter- 
fere with the arms of the curb-bit, especially if 
the horse makes an attempt to rush ahead. 

If the horse in hand starts to kick and plunge, 
attempting to break loose from the rider, the 
rider presses his own horse forward and up against 
the other, at the same time riding a circle to the 
right. 

When a horse, which is led, is saddled, the 
stirrups should always be drawn up. The man 
leading a horse should always keep himself between 
the horse in hand and all passing objects. 
\ When leading a horse out for inspection, 



— 8o — 

the person in charge places himself in front of the 
animal, facing it, takes one snaffle-rein in each 
hand close to the bit, and holds up the horse's 
head, at the same time making him stand with 
legs straight under him. The horse is urged into 
this position by means of one or both reins, whereby 
his legs may be moved forward, or backward, into 
the desired position. 



I. Riding with Snaffle. 

Riding lessons are frequently commenced 
with the use of a curb bridle, which is not the 
proper thing, because the handling of four reins 
may easily lead to mistakes in the taking up of 
the reins, and a beginner has generally so much 
to do in trying to stick on that, even if at first he 
does take refuge in the reins for his support, it does 
not lead to any serious results for either parties, 
if it is done by means of the snaffle-reins. If no 
snaffle bridle be at hand, leave out the curb-chain. 

A horse is generally more willing to "go up to 
the bit" when ridden with the snaffle than if the 
curb is used, and, since a beginner's hand is always 
more or less unsteady and rigid (tending to an 
irregular guidance), it is best for him always to 
continue using the snaffle until the hand has become 
sufficiently supple to admit of the use of a more 
severe bit, with which he would otherwise most 
likely have injured the horse's mouth, or allowed 
the reins to hang loosely and let the animal take 
its own course. 



— 81 — 

The snaffle-bit should be adapted to the 
sensitiveness of the animal's mouth as well as to 
the rigidity of the rider's hand. 

A bit with a thin mouth piece is more severe 
than one with a thick mouth piece. 

Horses with lean tongues and lean and sharp 
interdental space have, as a rule, sensitive mouths. 



Mounting and Dismounting. 

If the reins have been taken over the horse's 

; head, they are, before mounting, brought up, and 

I left lying on his neck just in front of the withers, 

i and hanging down equally on each side ; the 

i stirrups, if used, are let down, and the horse is 

i made to stand in position with all four legs straight 

I under him (see page 80). If the fore legs are 

I placed back too far, they may be brought forward 

, by gently touching the back of the fetlock with 

! the point of the toe or the whip ; if the hind legs 

! are placed back too far, take position in front of 

the horse, as described on page 80, and urge him 

j on a bit by "clucking" to him, at the same time 

preventing a forward advance with the reins. Or, 

instead, while still on foot, the whip may be 

I used on the near side of the horse's hind quarters, 

\ the haunches being prevented from flying out by 

the left hand of the person who is holding the 

horse on the off side; or the horse may be placed 

with his off side to the wall. 

The person who holds the horse, during 
j. mounting and dismounting, should stand at the 

6 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 82 — 

off fore leg with his face turned towards the 
animal, and hold with his right hand the right 
cheek piece of the bridle close above the bit, 
and with his left hand the stirrup-leather close 
to the stirrup, which is then placed, when mount- 
ing, on the rider's foot with its front part turned 
outwards and, when dismounting, is drawn up. 
When the rider is in the saddle and has taken up the 
reins, the attendant lets go of the bridle. In case 
the attendant is needed to hold a second horse 
while the first is being mounted or dismounted, he 
may slip the snaffle-reins of the former over his 
right arm, taking care that the hind part of this 
one will not touch the other horse. If the rider 
should not be on hand when the horse is brought 
round, the attendant may walk the animal about. 

As a rule, no groom or attendant should be 
allowed to ride, unless he has a long distance 
before him or more than one horse to lead, and 
unless he can ride fairly well. In the case of a 
very nervous animal, however, it is better to have 
it ridden, even by an inferior rider, rather than 
risk sustaining an injury to the horse amidst all 
sorts of traffic. 

When the horse is brought up to be mounted, 
he is placed with his near side toward the 
approaching rider. If he is to be mounted in the 
school, he is placed in the middle, and parallel to 
the shorter sides, but not on the track alongside 
of the wall. If more riders are mounting or dis- 
mounting at the same time, the horses are formed 
in line with intervals of four steps between horses. 



-8 3 - 

When about to mount, never rush towards the 
animal, even if greatly hurried, for "haste makes 
waste," and even the quietest animal may become 
alarmed, when approached in such a manner, and 
probably take some time to regain its former 
composure. 



Mounting, 
a. At the Stand. 

I. On Saddle with Stirrups. 

With the whip in the left hand, point down- 
ward, the rider walks from ahead and obliquely 
towards the horse's near shoulder, meanwhile 
attentively looking at its head, ears, eyes, nostrils, 
flank, legs and coat, to ascertain if it is afflicted 
by any internal illness or external unsoundness 
(see "Treatment of Sick Horses"), or shows 
evidence of vice. Having seen to it that the 
animal has been property groomed, bridled and 
saddled, the rider stands facing the horse, taking 
position somewhat behind the near fore leg (but 
not too close to it), and takes hold of the left rein, 
close to the bit, with the left hand, holding it 
between the third and fourth finger. Then, placing 
the right hand close behind the left, he slides 
both hands along the rein back to the withers, 
tightening the rein, until the horse's mouth is 
"felt"; then the right hand shortens the right 
rein, making it even with the left one, and places 
it in the open left hand, the back of which is turned 



-84- 

downwards. The end of the reins hang on the 
near shoulder of the horse. With the right hand 
the rider now takes a lock of the mane and places 
it in his left hand, which is closed, turning the 
back of the hand upwards. If necessary, the mane 
may be twisted round the thumb.* Having 
steadied the stirrup with the right hand, and 
placed his left foot into it, he now takes hold of the 
cantle of the saddle with the right hand (thumb 
nearest the seat), and pushing off with the right 
foot, he raises himself, back and head erect, 
lightly up in the stirrup, taking care not to pull 
the saddle over to his side; the body should lean 
slightly forward, the legs be together, and the 
thighs and the knees, the latter slightly bent, 
pressed against the saddle skirt. Moving the 
right hand to the pommel and keeping the left 
knee still close to the skirt, he then passes the 
right leg over the horse's croup (without touching 
him there), knee straight and heel turned up, and 
down to the off side, and lets himself slowly down 
on the seat, taking care to keep his body erect.** 
The hold on the mane is then withdrawn, the 
right hand draws the whip out of the left and holds 



*Should the hairs of the mane be scarce and fine, the rider 
may, after taking up the reins in the manner described 
above, grasp only the withers instead of the mane, keeping 
the four fingers on the off side and the thumb on the near 
side, pressing the reins firmly against the withers. 
**If the rider has no one to place the off stirrup on his foot, 
he may do this himself (without looking down) by raising 
his toe, pointing it inward, and lightly touching the rear 
branch of the stirrup with it. The stirrup will then swing 
round, and the foot may be placed into it, with the ball of 
the foot resting on the bar. 



-8s- 

it with point upward, pointing in direction of 
horse's near ear, then, placing the right hand in 
front of the left, the off rein is taken between the 
third and fourth finger and with the thumb; the 
left hand then lets go its hold of the off rein. The 
reins should be kept equally long in both hands, 
and the hands held in the fundamental position 
(see "Handling the Reins"). 

If parted reins are used, i.e., reins not sewn 
together on the ends, they are placed crosswise 
over the horse's withers before mounting, so that 
the near rein falls to the off side and vice versa, 
and are held in the left hand in the same manner 
as if joined. When the rider is mounted and has 
taken one rein in each hand, he may throw the 
ends of the reins to their proper side with a swift 
outward motion of the hands. 

"Parted reins" are always used in military 
remount schools. 



II. On Blanket: 

The rider stands somewhat nearer the horse 
than when mounting on saddle with stirrups, the 
left hand takes hold of the reins as before described, 
the right hand is placed on the surcingle with the 
thumb to the left and the other fingers to the 
right of the animal's backbone. First bending, 
and then straightening the knees, the rider makes 
a spring from the insteps and raises himself with 
straight arms, keeping the shoulders well lowered. 
All the rest — position of body, passing of right 



— 86 — 

leg over croup, sitting down, and holding of reins — 
to be done as before described in I. While mount- 
ing, the rider must not with his toe kick the 
horse's near fore leg. 

III. On Saddle without Stirrups. 

To mount on a saddle without stirrups, the 
rider proceeds just as when mounting on a blanket, 
excepting that in this case the right hand takes 
hold of the saddle and goes through the same 
motions as when mounting on a saddle with 
stirrups. 

When a rider requires assistance in mounting, 
he bends his left knee, and the person aiding him 
grips him under the left shin bone and raises him 
up, while at the same instant, the rider springs 
from the ground with the right foot. If a saddle 
is used, he may grasp the pommel with his right 
hand — but not the can tie. 

b. During Motion. 

Mounting during motion should be done at 
first without stirrups. The rider leads his horse 
as described when "Leading the Horse, Dis- 
mounted." With feet together, he springs up 
from the ground, but nearer the fore legs than 
when mounting at the stand. With a blanket, 
the hands take hold as described in II; but on 
saddle without stirrups the right hand grasps 
the pommel (never the cantle) with the thumb on 
the top and the four fingers laid in the gullet. 



-8 7 - 

When mounting during motion, the rider 
should take care, especially when horse is gallop- 
ing, not to get too far over on the off side of the 
horse's back. 

When saddle and stirrup are used in this 
form of mounting, the rider must be discreet and 
cautious, but it is a most useful exercise and should 
not be omitted. It is done just in the same way as 
mounting at the stand — hands taking hold of 
reins, stirrup-leather and saddle, as before de- 
scribed. Then the rider, keeping abreast of the 
horse's fore leg, turns his body obliquely towards 
the rear, steps up in the stirrup with his left foot, 
and springs from the ground with the right foot 
at the same instant that the horse sets down the 
near fore foot. The rest is as described in I. 



Dismounting, 
a. At the Stand. 

I. From Saddle with Stirrups. 

The rider takes hold of the left rein with 
the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, 
keeping it close to the left hand, which slides 
along the rein as far as the withers, where both 
reins and a lock of mane are taken and held 
as in mounting; the whip is held, point down- 
ward, in the left hand and on near side of horse. 
Next, the off stirrup is released, and with the 
help of the right hand on the off side of the pommel 
and the left foot in the stirrup, the rider raises 



— 88 — 

himself up from the saddle and passes his right 
leg backwards over the horse's croup (as in mount- 
ing), at the same time moving the right hand to 
the cantle, keeping position of legs and body as 
when mounting. Then, bending the left knee, the 
right foot is set down, the left foot taken out of 
the stirrup, the reins released, and the near 
stirrup taken up if the ride is ended. If there is 
no one to assist, the rider takes up both stirrups 
himself, slipping the reins over the left or right 
arm while doing this, and then holding them as 
when about to lead the horse. 

While the left foot is still in the stirrup, 
and the rider is about to place the right foot on 
the ground, he must be very careful not to let the 
left foot slip out of the stirrup, for the stirrup 
might swing and hit him. If the rider has legs 
so short that he cannot reach the ground with 
the right foot, while the left is in the stirrup, he 
must take his foot out of the stirrup and alight 
to the ground on both feet. 



II. From Blanket. 

Reins, whip and mane are held as described 
in I. The rider places his right hand close in 
front of his seat, just as when mounting on blanket, 
and with body slightly bent forward, raises him- 
self on both hands, and swings the right leg in 
the usual manner over the horse's croup to the 
near side. Remaining for a moment in this 
position, arms straight and body erect, he alights 



-8 9 - 

on his toes, with knees bent. The reins are re- 
leased, or held as described in I. 



III. From Saddle without Stirrups. 

This is done in the same way as when a 
blanket is used, but the right hand is used, just 
as when dismounting from saddle with stirrups. 



b. During Motion. 

Reins, whip and mane are held just as when 
dismounting at the stand. 

If stirrups are used, they are released before 
dismounting. 

In dismounting "from saddle," the right 
hand takes hold of the pommel, as in mounting 
during motion (see page 86), but is not to be 
moved to the cantle. Otherwise everything is 
done just as in dismounting at the stand, except 
that the momentary intermission on straight arms 
(named in II) may be dispensed with. After 
alighting on the ground (see page 75, no. 6), 
the rider runs with the horse, holding the reins 
in manner described for leading him. 

When the rider practises without reins, he 
goes through the processes of mounting and dis- 
mounting in the same manner as in riding with 
reins, leaving out all motions concerning the reins 
and the handling of them. 

Mounting and dismounting should be prac- 
tised likewise on off side of horse. 



— go — 

When the rider mounts and dismounts at the 
stand, the horse must remain absolutely quiet; 
the reins must, accordingly, be adjusted to meet 
the demands of the situation, i.e., a horse inclined 
to move forward would require a shorter rein, and 
one inclined to step backward would require a 
longer one. If he moves sideways, that rein on 
the side to which the horse moves, is taken up 
shorter. 



The Rider's Position when Mounted. 

(Fig. 41.) 

" Your knees to yovr nag's side^ 
Your arms to your own, 
Your hands and heels down, 
Your heart and head up." 

The attitude of the rider on the horse must 
be easy, natural and unconstrained; if he assumes 
an awkward and unyielding position, the rigidity 
of his seat will be felt by his mount, whose move- 
ments will become correspondingly hard and 
uneven. 

The reader has, no doubt, often heard expres- 
sions like "to feel at home on the horse's back," or 
"to look as if one is at home on the horse." The one 
is a consequence of the other. If one really feels 
at home on the horse, he will surely look to be so, 
and such security is obtained only by a correct and 
unconstrained position. 

A good position depends principally on a 
quiet seat, which is attained by keeping the legs 



9 i — 




Fig. 41 



nearly immovable from hip to knee, and keeping the 
legs below the knee and the upper body movable. 
In the proper mounted position, the seat 
rests on three points — both seat-bones and the 
crotch — on which the weight is equally divided; 
hips straight over seat-bones and at right angles 
to backbone of horse; thighs well turned from 
hip-joint, so as to expand the crotch; the inside 
flat of the thighs and the knees fitted closely 
(without pressing) to sides of horse, and with 
knee-caps pointing forward. Resting the seat 
on the three "seat-points," the thighs are stretched 
well downward. 



— 92 — 

If the rider rests his weight only on both seat- 
bones, his back becomes crooked, and knees and 
thighs creep upward and forward; such a position, 
to say nothing of its awkwardness, obviously 
prevents proper use of the legs. If, on the other 
hand, he rests the weight on the crotch (the fork- 
or scissor-seat) his balance is easily lost. If he 
hangs to one side, the hip sinks in and the shoulder 
down on opposite side. This uneven position will 
easily cause the animal's back to be galled. 

The body must be kept straight over the 
hips, the shoulders well back and equally lowered, 
the centre of chest in a straight line with crest of 
horse, the back straight, but not rigid, the neck 
and head perpendicular on shoulders; the chin 
drawn back, and the eyes looking straight forward 
between the horse's ears. The shoulder joints 
must be firm so that the rider's arms cannot be 
drawn forward, the upper part of arm hanging 
straight down from the shoulder, -but not pressed 
close to the body, thus preventing the shoulders 
from creeping upward. The elbow should be bent 
to such a degree that the upper arm will form a 
right angle (approximately) to the lower arm, which 
with the inner side will then touch the waist-line. 
Elbow-joint and wrist are to be kept loose and 
limber, to avoid jerking the horse's mouth; by 
bending the hands a little inwards, so that back 
of hand and outside of lower arm form at least a 
straight line, the wrists will become rounded. 
The hands should be closed without being con- 
vulsively clinched and be held with knuckle of 



— 93 — 

thumb straight upwards and the fourth finger 
downwards (i. e. hand on edge) about a hand's 
breadth from the waist, equally raised, and above 
the middle of horse's withers, with middle finger 
knuckles i to 2 inches from each other. The 
reins are held in the fundamental position (see 
"Handling the Reins"). 

The knee-joints must be loose, the calves of 
the legs hanging straight and easily down along- 
side of the horse, but without touching him; 
ankle joints, insteps and toes movable and limber; 
heels down, and feet held in position into which 
the turning of thighs from hips will bring them. 

When using stirrups, the ball of the foot and 
the little toe rest on the bar of the stirrup, the 
leathers of which are to be equally long, and of such 
a length that the foot (the rider holding his leg 
in the position above described) will rest lightly 
in the stirrup*, which in ordinary circumstances 
serves only to carry the weight of the leg. Buring 
jumping, side-leaps, bucking, etc., however, more 
support may be taken from the stirrup, while, at 
the same time, thighs and knees take a firmer 
grasp on the horse. If the stirrup is held correctly, 



* Ordinary measurement for the length of the stirrup-leather 
is considered a hand's breadth between the crotch and 
the saddle, when the rider, having straightened his legs 
without drawing up his heels, raises himself in the stirrups. 
Stirrups, however, are to be used shorter on narrow horses 
and longer on those having a wide barrel, so the most 
accurate measure will always be obtained by taking the 
horse's shape into consideration — thus, when the bar of 
the stirrup touches the rider's instep, his leg hanging 
in the above-described position, the stirrup-leather will 
then be at its right length. 



— 94 — 

the sole of the foot will rest quietly on the bar, 
while the heel may bob up and down — thus 
preventing the rider from being tossed up and 
down in the saddle. 

Riding on a blanket is especially recommended 
for the beginner, for in this way the pupil sooner 
acquires a safe, good seat, and is, moreover, not 
so likely to become chafed. He will, on the blanket, 
settle down deeper on the horse's back, which 
demands a greater expansion 'of his thighs than 
is the case on the saddle, which is of less breadth. 
Consequently, his legs will reach down farther, 
which will enable him to use the calf of the leg to 
better advantage. 

The preservation of the horse's fore legs 
depends largely upon the position of the body of 
the rider, as is shown by the following table, 
supposing a man weighing 150 lbs. to be mounted: 

In a vertical position, he weighs down the fore part with 96 lbs. 

" hind " " 54 " 

In leaning forward, " " " " fore " "124.5" 

" . " " " " " " hind " " 25.5" 

In leaning backward, " " " " fore " " 72.5 " 

" hind " " 77.5 " 

Consequently, the distribution of the rider's 
weight plays an important part in the endurance, 
movement, and staying power of the mount. 
However, it is not always the "light" rider who 
is the lightest burden to the animal, as it depends 
greatly upon a correct and quiet seat, and the 
ability to adjust oneself pliantly to the movements 
of the horse. 



— 95 — 

Handling the Reins. 

Without a secure and correct seat, loose elbow 
joint and wrist, and firm shoulder joint, a proper 
handling Of the reins is impossible. The reins are 
the chief factor employed in teaching the horse to 




Fig. 42. 

understand the rider's will, but an experienced 
rider on a well-trained animal should not use 
them more than is necessary, lest he be called a 
"rein-rider" — a term which is almost abusive in 
horseback parlance. 



-96- 

The fundamental position (Fig. 42). With 
hands held as described in "The Rider's Position 
when Mounted," the reins are held, one in each 
hand and with hairj^side of hide turned outward, 
between the fourth and the third finger and over 
the middle part of the first finger, against which 
the entire end (not the nail) of the thumb presses 
the rein; the nails of the other fingers lightly 
touching the palm of the hand. The end of 
the reins pass forward over the first fingers and 
hang down on the near side of the horse's shoulder, 
and on inside of left rein. If the reins are parted, 
the ends hang down, one on each side of the horse's 
shoulders, outside of the reins. 

The height at which the hands are held above 
the withers varies. Thus, a horse carrying his 
neck and head too low will require hands held 
higher, whereas an animal carrying its neck and 
head. too high or nose high ("a stargazer") will 
require a low hand. 

The giving (slackening) and taking (tighten- 
ing) of the reins is accomplished by turning the 
hands at the wrist, but without allowing it to 
stiffen, and in such a way that the little fingers are 
moved forward or backward. The hand is turned 
like a door on its hinge (the thumb being the 
hinge) ; turning the wrist must be done gradually, 
not all at once, and must not be jerky. When the 
desired effect has been obtained, the hands are 
brought in the same manner into their original 
position. Should such turning of the wrist prove 



— 97 — 

insufficient, the hands may be moved straight 
forward or backward. 

Giving. By turning the wrists, the little 
fingers are brought forward and outward; thus 
the back of the hand is turned more or less upward. 

Taking. By turning the wrists, the little 
fingers are brought towards the waist and closer 
to each other, without dropping the thumbs down- 
ward and outward. 

Turning. In taking on one rein, the other 
one should be slightly eased. 

Bending the Horse's Head Sideways. To bend 
the horse's head (from the poll) to one side, one 
rein (the inward) is shortened by gradual taking 
and to such a degree that the rider, without bend- 
ing his head forward and inward, can catch a 
glimpse of the horse's inward eyebrow and nostril, 
though, in most cases, he will have to be content 
with a slighter bend. The outward rein is used to 
prevent too great a bend to the side (neck-bending) . 
As the horse bends more readily when the hand is 
held low, the inward hand should, as a rule, be 
lowered. If the horse leans his ears to one side 
and his nose to the other, the rein on the side 
to which the ears are pointing should be held 
higher than the other rein. If he turns his whole 
neck inwards from the shoulder, the outward rein 
is brought low and tightened, the inward rein 
being drawn a little outward and upward. 

Shortening of the reins. This is done first 
with one rein and then with the other. The thumb 
and forefinger of the right hand take hold of the 

7 — Handbook for Riders. 



- 9 8- 

left rein close above the left hand and draw it 
through the hand to the desired length; then the 
same thing is done with the right rein by the left 
hand. If the reins are to be considerably shor- 
tened, they should not be shortened all at once, 
but by degrees, i.e., first the right rein, then the 
left; then again the right, etc. 

Up to the bit (or "on the bit"). This expres- 
sion is used when the horse, with a light feeling of 
the bit, readily responds to the influences of the 
reins. These should so assist the horse in carry- 
ing his neck and head in a position that the weight 
of these parts does not put any more strain than 
is inevitable on the fore part of the animal — 
thereby serving almost as a fifth leg to the horse. 
But to ride with light reins or to have a light hand 
does not mean to ride with long or loose reins, for, 
in this case, the rider is utterly unprepared to act 
quickly in the event of any spontaneous motion 
on the part of his horse. Then, too, a long rein, 
by depriving him of the needful support on the 
bit, will cause the horse to carry himself badly, 
and so bring more weight to bear on the fore legs. 

The faster the pace the more will the horse 
need a firm support on the reins. 

Hard Mouth. The horse is said to have a 
hard mouth when he does not willingly obey the 
influences of the reins in taking, turning, bending 
of the head, etc. A hard mouth may be the fault 
of horse or of rider, or of both. If the horse has 
been wrongly broken or afterwards badly ridden, 
or if he has a weak fore part, causing him to be 



— 99 — 

out of the correct balance, he must be brought 
back into balance by alternate light feeling and 
easing of the reins before a proper support on the 
bit can be re-established. A continuous pull or 
tension on the reins will only result in further 
"deadening" of the mouth. Very often the natural 
sensitiveness of an animal's mouth has been 
spoiled by a rider with "hard hands," which 
causes the horse to hang with dead weight in the 
reins; nor can the animal be benefited in such a 
case except by a prompt removal of the cause. 
An insecure seat is often the cause of a hard mouth, 
because by reason of the effort necessary to main- 
tain the requisite balance, the rider can give no 
thought to his arms and hands, which consequently 
are jerked hither and thither with each move of 
his body, thereby inflicting untold agony on the 
sensitive jaw of the horse. The animal soon finds 
that by bearing hard upon the reins the pain is 
lessened, as the pressure becomes constant, which 
will enable the rider to support himself more 
evenly and continually upon the reins ; but one fine 
day the animal, thus ridden, may bolt. 

Behind the bit. This expression is used when 
the horse does not take support on the reins at 
all or only slightly, and does not obey the influences 
of the rider. This fault arises generally from a 
hard hand on the part of the rider and from a 
very sensitive mouth on the animal, the sensitive- 
ness being either natural or caused by ill-treatment. 
When a horse is behind the bit, he will show an 
inclination to draw back if his rider attempts to 



— IOO — 

bring head and neck into correct position while 
at the stand, and when in motion he is likely to 
trip, and is reluctant to move at fast paces, 
especially in the trot, which pace he will often 
seek to avoid altogether by breaking into a gallop. 
In most cases, where the horse is behind the bit, 
he bends his nose too much towards his chest, and 
to shorten the reins until one feels the animal's 
mouth will prove worse than useless, and may 
often result in the animal becoming restive. On 
the contrary, the horse must be urged to seek 
support in the reins himself, and the only remedy 
lies in the rider's legs (this will be described 
further on) . Sometimes a horse, not properly up 
to the bit, will carry his nose high in the air, but 
this happens less frequently; and a quiet, low 
hand, combined with energetic use of the legs, 
will generally prove effective. 

Riding with double snaffle. When two snaffle- 
bits are used, one is placed above the other in the 
horse's mouth and each has its own pair of reins. 
The upper rein is placed between the third and the 
middle finger, and the lower one between the 
little and the third finger; otherwise each pair 
of reins is held as explained for single reins. When 
a martingale is used (see page 42) the double reins 
are held in the same manner. 



Saluting on Horseback. 

People on horseback attract more attention 
than those on foot, and so, consequently, are 



— 101 — 

subject to severer criticism; therefore, it behooves 
every rider to look and act his best. An unassum- 
ing and genial manner will never fail to make a 
good impression, but foppish conduct, as well as 
an uneasy or constrained manner will never fail 
to bring forth ridicule. One so taken up with 
admiration of himself or with management of 
his steed as to forget to salute acquaintances, or 
doing it in an awkward way, is generally rewarded 
with a compassionate smile or shrug of the 
shoulders. Of course, there are cases when even 
the best horseman will be forced to devote all 
his attention to his mount, and then greetings 
may be shortened to suit the occasion. 

The head-covering is removed with the 
right hand. First take the right rein in the left 
hand, as if to dismount, and the whip, if one is 
used, in the thumb-grasp with point downward 
and to right of horse. Under no condition should 
the whip be held in the same hand which removes 
the hat. The head covering should be taken off 
with ease and brought down close to the rider's 
right side; in the same way it is moved up again 
and replaced, after which first the whip and then 
the rein are taken by the right hand. 

When, for some reason, the head-covering 
cannot be removed, the salutation is performed 
instead by a slight bowing of the head, or by 
touching the hat with the handle of the whip, or 
indeed by both. To salute with the point of the 
whip turned upward — as military men do with 
the sword — does not look well, and may easily 



102 

alarm a nervous animal. Salutations on horse- 
back should always be executed in such manner 
as not to influence the horse at all. 

When the management and control of a 
horse call for the use of both hands, then the 
rider is fully justified in omitting all salutation 
except bowing the head, for the lives and limbs of 
passers-by are surely of greater importance than 
the observance of such general formalities. 

The rider familiar with "horseback etiquette" 
will at all times be mindful of the comfort of both 
pedestrians and his own companions. To remove 
cigar, cigarette or pipe from mouth before saluting; 
when on muddy roads, so to regulate the pace and 
distance between riders that passers-by may not 
be splashed; to know when to stop talking in a 
company of riders; during conversation, to keep 
one's mount in such position that he cannot annoy 
the other horses, or suddenly switch his tail into 
a person's eyes — these are a few of the important 
details of riding which are so often overlooked. 

As a groom should show proper respect at all 
times, I will not omit to mention the proper 
manner in which this is done. 

A groom on foot, with a horse at the stand, 
salutes by standing in front of the animal (as 
when it is brought out for inspection, page 80), 
with heels together, and face turned towards the 
one to be saluted. 

A groom on foot with a horse in motion, salutes 
by looking at the one who is to be saluted, and 
preserving at the same time a respectful attitude 



— 103 — 

and sober countenance. If the groom is spoken 
to, he stops at once, stands in front of the horse, 
and holds him in such position that the horse's 
shoulder is straight abreast of, and about i yard 
from, the person speaking to the attendant. 

When the master or a visitor enters the stable, 
the groom, if at work, stops his work, keeping hold 
of the tools, however, which he is using, and salutes 
by straightening himself up and by looking at the 
one who enters. If his right hand is at liberty, 
he takes off his cap. 

Grooms should be strictly forbidden to run 
and rush nervously about in order to show them- 
selves attentive; smartness and calmness, com- 
bined with self-control, are invaluable qualities in 
those who are about horses. 



The Aids in Horsemanship. 

The indications by which a rider makes 
known his wishes to the horse are as follows: 
i. Voice. 4. Spurs. 

2. Reins. 5. Weight. 

3. Legs. 6. Whip. 
These "aids" must be applied at the right 

moment, mutually assist one another, commence 
with the mildest, and gradually be increased in 
the order of severity. When the desired effect has 
been gained, the application of the particular "aid" 
which has been used must cease, lest the horse 
become insensible to its action. The less visible 
the "aids" applied, the more perfect the riding. 



— 104 — 

The voice is principally used during the 
breaking-in, for the purpose of making the horse 
understand the holding back and urging-on effect 
of the reins and the legs, but after he has been 
properly broken, such use of the voice is dispensed 
with. 

Lazy horses may be encouraged by "clucking" 
to them, while high strung and frightened ones 
are talked to in a soothing tone, at the same time 
stroked on the neck with the hand. 

The use of the reins has already been men- 
tioned under "Handling the Reins." They act 
* principally upon the fore part of the horse and 
assist in regulating the pace. By means of the 
reins the horse is gathered, i.e., his neck is raised 
and the head is bent as near to the perpendicular 
position as his structure permits; the former is 
accomplished by a gentle taking upward of the 
reins ; the latter by more or less backward tightened 
reins. If the horse stiffens the neck at the poll 
and strives against every taking of the reins, then 
alternately giving and taking is applied. If the 
rein is pulled to one side, the hind part will swerve 
to the opposite side; if the rein on one side is 
placed low and tightened against the horse's neck 
as if pressing over to the other side, this will cause 
his shoulders to be pressed to the last mentioned 
side, at the same time as the aforesaid influence 
of the rein on the hind part ceases. 

Both reins are always used together, although 
each has its special effect. 

The inward rein (bending- and turning-rein) 



— 105 — 

bends the horse's head sideways and turns him, 
as well as prevents shoulders and hind part from 
pressing inward during turnings, circles, side-gaits, 
etc. 

The outward rein (taking- and collecting-rein) 
acts principally upon the outward side of the 
animal, while preventing shoulders and hind 
quarters from pressing out; during riding with 
horse's head bent sideways, this rein raises the 
neck and works against wrong bendings of neck 
and head. This rein also fixes the size of circles 
and turnings, as well as regulates the pace. 

The end of the reins must not be used to 
smack the horse on the shoulders in order to urge 
him forward, as this will cause him to become 
rein-shy or even hand-shy, — both bad habits in 
the horse. 

The legs, i.e., the calves, are the main aid 
which the rider applies on a broken horse. They 
are pressed to the sides of the animal with their 
inner and hinder part by bending of the knee joint 
and by using first the upper part of the calf; the 
pressure is applied gradually, without kicks and, 
if needed, is strengthened by also using the lower 
part of the calf, until the desired effect is obtained. 
At the same time the thigh, the knee and foot 
retain their original position, and the body must 
not lean forward. If the horse is insensible to the 
leg pressure, this ceases, is again renewed and, if 
necessary, is strengthened to a pressure of the heel 
or the spur, until the animal has understood and 
obeyed the rider's will, after which the legs are 



— 106 — 

brought into their original position. A continual 
pressure of the legs will make the animal insensible 
to them, and eventually he will notice the leg 
pressure no more than the girth that encircles 
his sides. 

Both legs always work together, either by 
evenly strong pressure of both or by one stronger 
than the other. According to the different effect 
which the legs are to produce, they are either 
applied just behind the girth or further back, but 
never in front of the girth or back at the flanks. 
Both legs used equally strong and just behind the 
girth forces the horse forward, and used further 
back they force the hind legs forward. A stronger 
pressure of the leg on one side forces the horse or 
only his hind quarters over to the opposite side, 
or it may assist in making him yield to the rein on 
the same side. .' * 1 

As each rein has its special effect, so has each 
leg. The inward leg is the forward and outward 
forcing one, while the outward leg is the holding 
back, collecting and inward forcing one; it is also 
the latter that prevents the haunches from flying 
out in bending lessons, and, for this reason, is often 
called the guarding leg. 

The spurs are used in the same cases anl at 
the same place, relative to the girth, as the legs, 
when the animal is lazy or does not respond to the 
legs. 

If the spur is used, the toepoint is turned 
outward and a trifle downward, without the knee 
altering its position. The spurs are applied on the 



— 107 — 

same principle as the legs, that is, with evenly 
increasing pressure, until the desired effect has 
been obtained, but they may also be applied with 
a sharp cut, in cases where a sudden or very strong 
effort is required of the animal, such as by violent 
jumps, etc. The cut of the spurs must not be 
accompanied by a removal of the rider's legs from 
the sides of the horse, as if making a jib at him, 
for this would frighten him and at the same time 
derange the seat of the rider. 

The weight of the rider serves partly in keeping 
the balance on the horse and partly in assisting 
and increasing the effect of reins and legs. Placing 
the weight forward tends to urge the animal for 1 
ward, while weight backward serves to hold him 
back and also for collecting ; weight to the side 
for purposes of turning. 

The bringing forward of the weight is accom- 
plished by a nearly imperceptible pushing forward 
of the hips, the bringing back of the weight by a 
heavier sitting down in the seat, and by moving 
head and shoulders backwards. Weight to one 
side is accomplished by the rider's heavier sitting 
down on one side of the seat bones, without dis- 
placing the seat or otherwise disarranging the 
position. 

During moving forward, holding back, col- 
lecting and turnings, the transfer of the rider's 
weight must not be noticeable, except to the 
animal. In gallop at full speed, a leaning forward 
of the whole body is then permissible. 

In order that the rider may keep his balance, 



— 108 — 

the weight of the body, when riding up hill or on 
a rearing animal, is brought forward; riding down 
hill or on a kicking horse, weight backwards, and 
in sudden side-leaps, weight should be to the side 
where he leaps. 

The transfer of the weight must, necessarily, 
as reins and legs, be adapted according to the 
rider's aim and the sensitiveness of the horse. 

In the art of riding, the correct co-operation 
of reins, legs and weight, and the proper actions 
employed at the right moment are the true 
means used by the subtle and clever rider, who 
always keeps his mount, as it is often expressed, 
between legs and reins, i.e., the legs are on guard, 
while the hand with the reins allows the horse, 
with light support on the bit, both in motion and 
at the stand, to take such a bearing that he will be 
unable to do anything without the rider's will, or 
if he attempts to do so, the able rider immediately 
prevents. 

When legs, reins and weight act in such 
harmony that the horse, without too great an 
effort, can carry the rider and always be in readiness 
to obey his will, the horse is said to be in balance, 
i.e., the weight of the horse and rider and the work, 
which is required of the former, should be divided 
on fore and hind part as equally as possible. 

The whip serves principally during the break - 
ing-in, to teach the horse to understand the legs, 
but later on it also assists the legs with lazy horses, 
especially mares in heat, on which legs and spurs 
often have the opposite from usual effect. In 



— 109 — 

such cases, the whip is held, as a rule, on the inner 
side with point downward, just behind the horse's 
shoulder, where it will prevent this part from 
pressing in; applied on the hind part, it will 
naturally press this part over to the opposite side 
or bring the horse forward. If the whip has to be 
moved from one hand to the other, for instance 
from the left to the right, this is done in the follow- 
ing way: The right rein is placed in the left 
hand, as in dismounting; the left wrist is turned 
in a way that the little finger passes a little back- 
ward and then decidedly upward, thus also moving 
the point of the whip backward and upward; the 
right hand with its little finger turned upward, 
seizes the whip close above the left hand, pulls it 
out of the latter, and moves it, with point turned 
backward, down to the right side, after which the 
right rein is taken by the right hand, as in mount- 
ing. In so moving the whip, it passes unnoticed 
by the horse. 



How, When and Where to Punish Horses. 

He that loveth him, 
Chasteneth him betimes 

Punishment is an augmented use of the aids. 
Jt is applied to very lazy or vicious animals, and to 
such others that are obstinate or resist the 
rightly applied aids — providing these aids are 
understood by the animal. The punishment must 
always immediately follow the fault, for, if delayed, 
the horse will certainly not understand why he is 



— no 

punished. Moreover, the punishment must be 
applied in the right place, by the right means, and 
cease as soon as obedience is obtained. Every 
punishment must necessarily be carried out with 
firmness and forced through until the rider's will 
has conquered; further, it must be adapted to the 
temperament and sensitiveness of the horse. 
Untimely punishment, for instance, to horses that 
misbehave from fright or ignorance, must not be 
given. Unskilled riders should, therefore, try to 
escape getting into situations that might tempt 
or cause the horse to disobey or become unman- 
ageable, rather than encounter such difficulties 
and then try to punish the animal, since the fault, 
in many such instances, is the rider's, and surely 
it is one of the greatest blunders to punish the 
horse for the fault of the rider. Eventually the 
poor animal becomes so muddled that he does not 
know "head from tail," nor what is right from 
what is wrong, and after such an experience even a 
skilful trainer finds it difficult to restore the animal 
to normal condition. 

The means by which the rider punishes the 
horse are: 

The voice, the spurs and the whip. 

As the horse is susceptible to the influence 
of the human voice, rewarding and encouraging, 
as well as punishing, every rider should acquire 
the knack of giving his voice the proper emphasis, 
force and tone to attain the desired effects. I 
know from experience that cases occur when spurs 
and whip are not able to produce the same effect 



— Ill — 

as a harsh tone. When the rider is on foot with 
his horse, a sudden and emphatic shout at the 
right moment may often save him from an intended 
kick of the animal, especially if the shout is accom- 
panied by a penetrating and defiant look into the 
horse's eyes. 

In the treatment of animals, one should be as 
humane and lenient as consistent. In order to 
obtain obedience, first try the gentlest means. I 
must beg the reader not to forget that the voice 
is frequently effective, and, at any rate, try this 
mode first, always remembering "7/ at first you 
don't succeed, try, try again." 

If spurs are to be applied as a punishment, 
they are applied by sharp digs or they are pressed 
firmly into the animal's sides, keeping them there 
for some time, as a last resort, to bring the animal 
to reason, when quite out of the rider's control; 
for instance, when running away. As a proof of 
this I can state that I, when a pupil in the cavalry 
training school, had once a runaway horse to 
break in, and, one fine day, he got the better of 
me and bolted straight across the training-ground 
for the open stable door, in front of which the 
ground was paved with rather slippery stones. 
After vainly trying all the less severe methods I 
knew of, then, on nearing the door, I suddenly gave 
him his head completely, thus depriving the horse of 
all support on the bit, which, for a moment, startled 
him and caused a sudden, though trifling, slackening 
of speed. Taking time by the forelock, I thrust my 
spurs with all my strength into the horse's sides, 



112 

at the same time leaning back almost touching his 
croup, and tightening the reins with all my might, 
I brought him to a standstill, with the result that 
his hind legs were brought so far forward that he 
sat down on his tail, still keeping his fore legs 
erect. I can assure the reader, I was quick in 
jumping off and in getting out the longeing tackle. 
My action probably saved my life and the horse 
never attempted to bolt with me again. This may 
also serve to show the necessity of teaching the 
horse to obey the collecting influences, of which we 
shall speak later. Punishment by only one spur 
is applied to a horse that will not respond or 
yield to the touching of the one leg or spur, or 
presses himself against it. 

Spurs, to act as punishment, must be sharp; 
if not, they only tend to irritate, and the effect will 
be the reverse of the rider's wish. 

The whip is the most powerful means of 
punishment at the rider's command. Even when 
spurs are ineffective, for instance, on spur-restive 
horses, the whip will have good effect. The whip, 
when used for punishing, is held with the point 
upward, in the right hand, and the lash falls 
quickly from above and slantingly downward, 
but whip and arm must not be brought so far out 
from the body, previous to the lashing, that the 
attention of the horse may be called to it, because 
it would then cause him no surprise. When the 
whip is used for such a purpose, the reins are held 
in the left hand. 

Cuts of the whip must not be applied further 



— H3 — 

in front than the shoulders, where they generally 
take good effect, especially if the horse throws 
himself to the side. 

On the hind quarters the whip must hit the 
flank and bend itself around the belly, and meet 
the other flank. On lazy horses and on those that 
rear, run backward, or become restive from other 
causes than fright, such a well directed lash will 
most frequently take effect. 

After applying a cut of the whip, it may often 
be well, in order to make the horse fearless of the 
whip when it is not intended as punishment, to 
flourish it above and on both sides of his head, at 
first slowly, then gradually faster, taking care not 
to touch him with the whip, and at the same time 
assuring him with the voice and stroking him on 
the neck. If he takes kindly to this use of the 
whip, he will not be in fear of it later on, but this 
is only the case when the whip is not used in 
punishment with movements which are sweeping 
and visible to the horse. 

To accompany the foregoing means of punish- 
ment with jerks of the reins or altogether to 
punish the horse with the reins, either by jerks 
of the bit on the interdental space, or by slaps 
with the reins on the fore part, is improper and 
objectionable. 

Finally, I suggest to every rider, before 
punishing his horse, to reflect and ascertain whether 
possibly the fault or part of it may not be his 
own, as one is often tempted to shift the blame to 
others. 

8 — Handbook for Riders. 



— ii4 — 

The Various Paces, 

The paces of the horse are either natural or 
artificial; the latter, being only an improvement 
and development of the former, are produced 
through schooling. This is necessary, as the extra 
weight of the rider must be provided for, so that 
the animal may keep its proper balance, to prevent 
its becoming unsafe and soon worn out. Schooling 
adds the necessary support to repair and improve 
the balance. 

The natural paces of the horse are the natural 
walk, trot and gallop — also the gallop at full speed 
(carriere) which may be considered as a special 
pace. 

At the walk, four beats of the hoofs are heard. 
Two feet are always up, while the other two are 
planted, the latter being alternately on the same 
side and diagonal. In counting the four beats of 
the hoofs, beginning with a fore leg, the second 
beat falls on this one's diagonal hind leg, third on 
the other fore leg, and fourth on the other hind 
leg. Beginning with a hind leg, the second beat 
falls on the fore leg on the same side, third on the 
other hind leg, and fourth on the other fore leg. 

The walk of the unbroken horse (natural 
walk) is slow and dragging, because the easy 
motions of the fore part are prevented by the 
lowered and stretched out position of the neck 
and head; the hind hoofs will, for this reason, be 
placed down in front of the print of the fore hoofs 
and frequently cause a clicking of the shoes, i.e., 
the hind hoofs strike the fore hoofs before the 



— H5 — 

latter are moved sufficiently forward, often injur- 
ing the bulbs of the heel of the fore foot, and 
causing the horse to stumble or even fall. 

At the trot, only two beats of the four hoofs are 
heard, as the diagonal legs are planted at the 
same time. Before the pair of diagonal legs first 
lifted have reached the ground, the other pair have 
already pushed off, consequently there is a moment 
when all four legs are up. 

The natural trot is, like the natural walk, slow 
and dragging. If an unbroken horse is at liberty 
and wishes to quicken his speed beyond the natural 
trot, he will rarely do so by increasing the trot, but 
by a series of plunges, which are the gallop. 

If the horse gallop correctly, three beats of 
his four hoofs are heard in each stride: one from 
the right (or left) hind leg, one from the left (or 
right) hind leg and the right (or left) fore leg, and 
one from the left (or right) fore leg. The time 
which elapses between the different beats of the 
hoofs of which one gallop-stride consists, is about 
the same, but between the last beat of the hoofs 
of one gallop-stride and the first beat of the hoofs 
of the next one, there is a longer interval. 

The natural gallop is heavy, i.e., the weight 
during strides is thrown over on the fore part; 
moreover it is unsteady, i.e., during the strides 
the legs do not always move in the same or right 
order. 

The carriere is, like the gallop, a series of 
plunges which, when it is forced to the utmost 
speed, sounds only as two beats of the hoofs in each 



— n6 — 

stride, i.e., one from both hind legs and one from 
both fore legs, but this is considered doubtful by 
many. In the strides of the carriere, the horse 
stretches out the bent and far advanced hind 
legs and throws himself forward on the ex- 
tremely extended fore legs — thus he becomes as 
long as possible, his belly draws low to the 
ground, while neck and head are stretched for- 
ward. From the horse's position in the carriere, 
it is often remarked that he lies flat towards the 
ground (ventre a terre). 

The unbroken horse in the carriere is unable 
to attain the speed of a broken one, because his 
fore legs do not reach so far forward, also because 
the joints of the hind legs are not yet made flexible 
by schooling. 

The improvement and development which 
the natural paces undergo through schooling 
consist in producing an even and correct tempo, 
i.e., the strides are to follow each other in the same 
order, be equally long, equally high, and equally 
rapid, and also in making easy the movements of 
the fore limbs by dividing work and weight, 
according to the purpose or object, equally 
between fore and hind part, or mostly on the 
latter. 

The artificial paces are designated in the 
same way as the natural. 

Through the breaking, three kinds of walk 
are obtained — ordinary walk, road — or campaign — 
walk, and collected walk. 

In the ordinary walk, which is used during 



— ii7 — 

school riding on one path (i.e., the hind feet should 
step in the track of the fore feet), through city 
streets or on difficult, slippery, pebbly or cespitose 
land, etc., the horse should do about 115 yards 
per minute. In the ordinary walk, the horse's 
neck should be raised and the profile of his head 
should be as near perpendicular as his build per- 
mits, the fore legs lifted easily and the hind hoofs 
should not be planted in front of the print from 
the fore hoofs. 

The road-walk, which is used on even ground 
during outdoor riding, long distance rides, train- 
ing for hard riding and in exercising a horse, is 
long, flat and fast. The movements of the fore 
part should be free and easy and the fore legs 
should reach far forward. The campaign-walk 
gives the animal good exercise without much 
fatigue, while it also develops chest and lungs. 
The speed of this particular walk may vary con- 
siderably with different horses and types. With 
the ordinarily good and middle sized half-bred 
animals, it is about 142 yards per minute, but, 
naturally, such speed cannot be continued hour 
after hour, and should be broken off, according to 
the distance to be covered, by shorter or longer 
intervals of rest in slower walk. 

The collected walk, which is used during col- 
lection and in side-gaits, is shorter and higher 
than the ordinary walk. In the collected walk 
the fore part of the horse is raised by bringing 
the weight more over to the hind part, the hind 
legs being brought under the horse's body. The 



— n8 — 

tempo is about the same as in the ordinary walk, 
because the collected walk loses in time by taking 
higher steps just about as much as it gains by the 
steps being shorter. 

Pacing is an incorrect motion of walk, wherein 
the horse moves fore and hind legs on the same 
side forward at the same time, and in which move- 
ment only two beats are heard from his four hoofs. 

At times there may occur a deranged mixing 
of pacing and trot — for instance with frightened or 
irritated horses that are made nervous or in high 
spirits by riders with like qualities and tempera- 
ments. 

The different kinds of trot, which the horse is 
taught through the breaking, are: short (slow), 
medium and extended trot, also collected trot. 

The short trot, used especially during the first 
riding lessons, has a speed of about 230 yards per 
minute. It is developed from the natural trot by 
raising the neck and bending the head, with its 
profile as near to the perpendicular line as pos- 
sible and thereby bringing the horse into balance, 
thus allowing an easier movement of his legs. 
In the short trot the hind hoofs are put down 
behind the print from the fore hoofs. 

The medium trot (about 257 yards per minute) , 
also called balance — or road — trot, is a little faster 
than short trot, still retaining the gathering of the 
horse. The hind hoofs are put down nearly in the 
print from the fore hoofs. 

The extended trot is developed from the medium 
trot and is the fastest of all trotting. In this kind 



— lip — 

of trotting, the horse is allowed to stretch neck and 
head more forward, but without going on his 
shoulders, which generally causes clicking. The 
fore legs should be well extended and the hind legs 
reach far forward. In the extended trot, the 
hind hoofs are put down in front of the print from 
the fore hoofs. This trot, being very fatiguing to 
the horse, should, therefore, not be used on hard 
roads nor for long periods ; still it can be beneficially 
practiced during riding lessons, for it is a good test 
of the rider's firmness in the saddle. 

The collected trot, which requires a correct bal- 
ance of the horse, is a trifle slower than the short 
trot, but with higher steps of the fore legs, the joints 
of the hind legs well bent, the back well lowered, 
and the weight on the hind part. This trot develops 
easiness in the shoulders, strength and elasticity 
in the hind legs, by the great bending of the joints 
of the hind part, and in the same manner that 
the human body is made muscular and supple by 
gymnastics. The collected trot lightens the fore 
part of the animal and brings the greater part of 
the work over on the hind part. It is used during 
collection and in side-gaits. 

Horses are said to be either easy or hard- 
trotting. Horses that carry high, or, at any rate, 
fairly high, have better action in the limbs and, 
therefore, are the more desirable for riding, having 
better and more genuine paces. 

The short (collected) and the extended gallop 
are developed from the natural gallop through 
schooling. 



120 



In the short gallop, which is ridden at about 
the same speed as the short trot, the horse should 
in correct bearing, with the weight on the hind part, 
and his haunches well under him move in short, 
regular gallop-strides, which, when extremely short- 
ened by bringing the weight still more over on the 
hind part, give the sound of four, instead of three, 
hoof beats. The short gallop, which especially 
exerts the hind part of the horse, must not 
be ridden long periods at a time nor on hard 
roads. 

The extended gallop (hunting — or road — gallop) , 
which has a speed of about 383 yards per minute, is 
ridden in long, flat, easy strides and with less 
bearing than the short gallop, though without 
letting the horse get out of balance. 

There is a gallop right and gallop left in the 
short as in the extended gallop, according to 
whether the horse "leads" with the right or the 
left legs (the advanced legs in each stride). In 
the right (or left) gallop the horse pushes off from 
the ground with both fore legs, starting with the 
right (or left) , by which the weight is brought over 
on the left (or right) hind leg, the stretching of 
which throws him forward into the gallop-stride, 
after which the bent and far advanced right (or 
left) hind leg admits the weight at the same time as 
the fore part is sustained for a moment by the left 
(or right) fore leg, and finally the high lifted and 
far advanced right (or left) fore leg receives the 
concussion from the forward thrown fore part. 
The forward pushing hind leg and the fore leg, 



121 

that receives the concussion of the forward thrown 
fore part are exerted most. Accordingly, a horse 
with weak right fore leg ought to be ridden for the 
most part in gallop left, while one with weak 
right hind leg in gallop right. 

Cross (disunited) gallop, which is wrong, 
injurious to the animal, and unsafe for the rider, 
is a mixture of gallop right and gallop left in each 
gallop-stride, while the fore legs move in one 
gallop and the hind legs in another. In cross- 
gallop the horse may take false with either fore 
or with hind legs. 

Half -gallop is a mixture of gallop and trot, 
in that the fore legs move in the gallop and the 
hind legs in the trot. This wrong gait is found 
sometimes in sluggish and long backed horses 
with shuffling movements in the hind legs. 

The gallop at full speed (carriere) cannot be 
performed to perfection until the horse, through 
schooling, has attained easy motions in the fore part 
and flexibility in the hind part, when the strides 
may extend to a very considerable length. The 
carriere, which cannot be practised in the school 
and ought not be ridden on roads, but on large, 
open and flat country, is the pace requiring most 
exertion. For practice it should be ridden only 
quite short distances (220 to 330 yards) at a 
time. With middle-size (about 15-2 hands) half- 
bred horses, the carriere speed varies from 765 to 
985 yards per minute. 

The above-mentioned paces are, with the 
exception of the extended trot and the carriere, 



— 122 — 

somewhat slower than those decided upon by 
military instruction, which establish: 

The ordinary walk to 150 steps (of 29^2 inches length) per minute. 

The short trot " 300 " 

The extended trot " 350 " 

The short gallop " 300 " 

The extended" "500 " 

The carriere from 700 to 1000" 

The so-called canter or lope, being similar to a 
cow's gallop, is often mistaken for the short gallop. 
It gives a very easy ride and is peculiar to certain 
varieties of horses. In this pace the horse is seldom 
gathered and goes, consequently, without bearing 
of the forehand, and therefore weighs heavily 
forward on account of the hanging neck and head. 
In this kind of gallop the hoofs give the sound of 
four beats. 



Carriage of the Horse when Mounted. 

The bearing of the unbroken horse {habitual 
bearing) is different, and may or may not be less 
favourable for his use as a mount, from the broken 
one; but only in the broken horse will satisfaction 
be found. With the unbroken animal, the greatest 
part of the weight of the body is carried on the 
fore part; besides, the rider in perpendicular 
position on horseback loads the fore part consider- 
ably more than the hind part (see page 94) ; if this 
disproportion in the distribution of weights could 
not be adjusted, riding would be unsafe and more 
or less injurious to the horse, according to his 



— 123 — 

build. By giving his body the correct bearing in 
proportion to its frame, this disproportion can be 
greatly, if not entirely, remedied. 

In deciding the bearing of the horse, it must 
also be borne in mind that the aids, which are at 
the rider's disposal, ought to be allowed to act under 
the most favourable circumstances, both for horse 
and rider: for instance, the position of the horse's 
head should be so that the reins may act at a right 
angle to the lower jaw, and the position of the 
horse's legs and the distribution of weight so that 
the legs of the rider may have the intended effect. 

All horses cannot be modeled to the same 
bearing any more than the very same horse can 
retain the same bearing under different circum- 
stances. It may appear that the bearing which 
produces balance is the most favourable, and it is 
certainly true in most cases; still, there are excep- 
tions — cases where a greater placing of weight on 
the hind part is necessary. To be able to choose 
between these, at the proper time and in the 
right place, is one of the chief tasks of the art of 
riding; and also what the riding instruction, 
by teaching the application of the different aids, 
makes clear to the rider. 

By raising the neck and the head, the fore 
part is lightened, by directing the nose inward 
towards the lower edge of the neck the reins are 
brought to act in the most favourable angular 
position with the lower jaws, which is the right- 
angled one (Fig. 43). In most cases one must be 
satisfied with getting the tip of the nose level with 



— 124 — 

the deepest part of the back, or even level with 
the hip,* and the profile line of the head somewhere 
between the perpendicular position and 45 for- 
ward (Fig. 41, page 91). Even horses with correct 
position of the head are allowed, when in more 
rapid paces, to hold the tip of the nose level with 
the hip and the profile line of the head 45 forward. 




Fig. 43. 



The raising of the neck depends upon the 
position of the shoulder blade. The more aslant 
it is, the higher the carriage, provided weak back 
and hind quarters do not prevent it. 

The more or less perpendicular position of the 
head depends on the jointing with the neck (the 
poll) and also on the shape of the jaws and of the 
parotid glands (see pages 8 and 9) ; if the condi- 
tions for bending the head at the poll are not at 

* On horses with badly shaped fore part still lower. 



— i2 5 — 

hand, the extreme vertebrae of the neck are 
allowed to bend with the head, but the neck must 
not assume the shape of a wheel (Fig. 44) . 

The bearing of the fore part is taken care of 
by the reins (see "The Aids in Horsemanship''), 
with assistance of the rider's legs, which prevent 
the horse from drawing backward or going behind 
the reins. 




Fig. 44. 



Thus, the carriage which the fore part can 
assume is qualified by the frame of the whole 
animal, and if proper allowance be not made for 
this, the horse may easily be spoiled and rendered 
unable to do the work which he might readily 
have done, if given a bearing more favourable to 
his build. 

At the stand, the horse should stand straight 
up and down on all four legs (Fig. 41, page 91). 

If both fore legs are under -placed, this is 
adjusted by the rider's weight being brought a 
little backward; the reins are raised and the legs 



126 

of the rider are applied a little more in front than 
usual. 

Should one fore leg stand too far back, then 
the rider's weight is brought over on its diagonal 
hind leg, the rein on the first mentioned leg's side 
is raised, and the rider's legs are applied, the one 
on the mentioned fore leg's side further in front, 
stronger and quite abruptly. 

If both fore legs be placed too jar forward, the 
reins are placed low and yielding, while the rider's 
legs press forward the hind legs, until the fore legs 
stand straight up and down. 

If one fore leg stands too far in front, the 
rider's weight is brought over on the opposite 
side and the rein to the mentioned fore leg's 
side is given a slight tension, the rider's 
legs on guard in order to prevent any further 
backing. 

If one or both hind legs be too much under- 
placed, the rider by pressure of his legs makes the 
horse step forward with the fore legs, until the 
hind legs are straight up and down. 

If one or both hind legs are backward-placed, 
the rider's legs are applied, while the reins prevent 
the horse's fore legs from advancing. 

Generally the wrong positions of the horse's 
legs should be adjusted by advancing. 

The rider may avoid bending and moving 
about to see whether the horse's legs are correctly 
placed, by noting the difference in the seat caused 
by the various wrong positions of the horse's legs, 



— 127 — 

though the rider can discover whether the fore 
legs are evenly placed or not by glancing at the 
horse's shoulder points; if they stand evenly, then 
the position of the fore legs also will be even; if 
not, the fore leg is always more advanced on 
the side where the shoulder point is more ad- 
vanced. 

If the fore legs are under -placed, the rider 
has the sensation of the horse's fore part slanting 
forward and of sliding forward in the seat. 

If the fore legs are stretched forward, the 
horse gets low in front and one feels as if he is 
leaning backward. 

If the horse does not stand evenly on both 
hind legs, the rider will feel this under his seat 
bones, which sink on the one or the other side. 

With backward stretched hind legs, the horse 
becomes lower behind and its back weak, which is 
made known to the rider by a considerable sinking 
of the animal's back. 

If the hind legs are under -placed, the horse's 
back will slope slightly to the rear and the rider 
will have the sensation of the animal's back being 
strong. 

In horses of abnormal structure, small devia- 
tions from the above distinguishing marks on the 
leg positions may, nevertheless, occur, but to dis- 
cuss all such cases would be too expansive, and 
aside from the purpose of this book. 



128 — 






The position of the horse's legs during motion 
will be mentioned later on under the different 
paces and lessons. 



Riding in Classes. 

This means that two or more riders take 
lessons in company. The instruction will be 
most profitable to the pupils and of least trouble 
to the teacher when all in the same class are 
equally far advanced. 

When the lesson begins, each rider places his 
horse in the right bearing and in such manner that 
the shoulders of the riders are abreast on a line, 
which is supposed to be drawn between the middle 
points of the two short sides of the school (the 
middle line), and by which the mounts are thus 
placed at right angles to the long side, and with an 
interval of 4 steps between them. The rider on 
the right flank having placed his horse in the 
proper manner, the others, one by one, arrange 
themselves after him (Right Dress) . If the dis- 
tance between one rider and his neighbour to the 
side of dressing is not correct, this is altered by 
closing tr avers (see page 183). If the horse should 
not stand at a right angle to the long side of the 
school, the fore part is adjusted after the rules for 
"Turning on Haunches" (see page 184), and the 
hind part after the rules for "Turning on Fore- 
hand" (see pages 140 and 162). 

When a class starts riding, it commences either 



— 129 — 

with the command* — "Forward March/" performed 
by all at the same time; or by one at a time, riding 
forward on the command — "By files from right (or 
left) Forward March!" In the latter case the right 
(or left) flank man rides forward first, the others 
follow, one by one, as soon as the tail of his neigh- 
bour's horse is abreast of their right (or left) leg. 
In either case, all ride straight forward and at the 
same pace, while each one takes an eye-mark on 
the long side of the school, straight ahead of him; 
when arrived at a horse's length distance from 
the wall (the track) all turn to the same side, 
which in simultaneous advancing should be 
directed by the teacher, giving the word, "Right 
(or Left)!" but which in successive advancing is 
the side from which the riders file. When on the 
track, in simultaneous advancing, the dis- 
tance between each following rider and the one 
ahead of him is one step, but in successive advanc- 
ing four steps, calculated from the tail of the 
horse in front and to the head of the next one 
following; these distances will be retained if the 
riders keep the same pace and the same track. 
If, during the riding, wrong distances occur, this 



*Most of the words of command are divided into two parts : the 
cautionary and the executive word; the first indicates what 
is to be done, the second the moment for the carrying out. Some 
of the words of command consist of but one word, which is 
often divided, nevertheless, into two parts, the latter one indi- 
cating the moment of execution, for instance, "Slow-er!" — 
or which only indicates what is to be performed, after which 
the execution comes as soon as possible, or on that place and at 
that moment of which the rider has been previously instructed. 
The two different parts of the words of command, the reader 
will find in this book divided by a dash, thus — . 

9 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 130 — 

is, if possible, corrected by deviating on the way, 
and not by a change of pace. 

The original distance between the riders in 
advancing on the hoof-mark may, according to 
circumstances, be changed later on in one of the 
following ways: 

The distance of four steps is changed into one, 
either by the leading rider retaining the pace or 
speed and the following riders increasing it; or by 
the leading rider decreasing the same (riding at a 
slower speed) or halting, while those following 
continue at the same pace. As each rider in one 
of these ways comes within a distance of one step 
from the rider ahead of him, the same "pace" as 
the leader is taken or "halt" is made. If the 
leader is to continue at an unchanged pace, the 
command is : "Close your files (and a faster pace) — 
March!" If not: "Close your files, leading file 
Halt (or a slower pace than before)!" 

The distance of one step is increased into four 
by the leader, who either moves forward from the 
stand or increases the pace. The following riders 
assume the same pace as the leading rider, after 
they have attained the distance of 4 steps from 
the rider ahead of them. The command being: 
"4 steps distance forward (or a faster pace than 
before) — March!" 

The distance of 4 steps should be kept in any 
pace faster than the medium trot. 

If the riders again be placed on the middle 
line of the school, this may, like the advancing, be 
done by all at the same time or by successive 



— I3 1 — 

entering into the school (deployment). In the 
former case, the command is: "Right (or Left) 
turn — March!" (See page 167); and when the 
riders are on the middle line : "Halt!" In deploy- 
ment the command is: "Left (or Right) form 
line, leading rider right (or left) turn — March!" 
The leading rider turns in to the right (or left) and 
goes, when the turning is completed, into a walk, 
if the pace has been faster, riding then at a right 
angle to the long side, he stops when the command, 
"Halt!" is given. The nearest following rider 
continues along the hoof-mark until he is 
straight behind the leader, then turns in and 
rides at a right angle to the long side ; when the 
head of his mount has reached abreast of the 
tail of the horse in advance of him, he slows down 
into a walk, if the pace has been faster, and he 
stops when he is abreast of the rider who has been 
riding in advance of him. Each rider does just 
the same as the one ahead of him. 

If the word be given: "At ease!" either at the 
stand or during motion, the horse, as well as the 
rider, may assume an easier position, though 
during motion the distances must be kept. When 
after "At ease" the lesson is to be resumed, the 
word will then be given : ' ' Take up the reins (or 
Attention) !" Reins and legs bring the horse, little 
by little, again into correct bearing, and at the 
same time the rider's legs prevent the horse from 
stopping, and at the stand from backing or side 
stepping, i.e., the horse is gathered. 



— i3 2 — 

To Put the Horse into a Walk. 

When the horse stands with correct bearing 
and light support on the bit, the command is 
given: "Forward — March!" The rider's legs are 
applied, at the same time easing the reins, though 
without losing all feeling of the bit, and the 
rider's weight goes with in the advancing motion 
of the horse. When the horse has got into a regular 
walk, the rider's hands, then the legs, resume their 
original position, thus adjusting the reins and 
relaxing the legs. Even pace {ordinary walk) is 
then kept up by the rider's legs, reins and weight. 

The motion of a horse in correct bearing 
should begin with a fore leg and the first step 
be taken to its full length. 

The ordinary walk is increased to a road-walk 
by giving the horse his head a little more, thereby 
giving neck and head a somewhat lowered position ; 
while retaining the support on the bit, the legs 
then press the animal forward. The rider must 
not prevent him from an easier gait by sitting 
down too heavily. The walk will reach its greatest 
speed if the rider, instead of pressing with both 
legs at the same time, will alternate the leg pres- 
sure in such a manner that each leg follows the 
advancing fore leg on the same side. Before the 
rider has learned to feel the motions of the horse's 
legs in his seat, he may glance at one of the horse's 
shoulder points, and at the moment when it stands 
furthest back, a short pressure is given by the leg 
on the same side, after which the other leg in like 
manner follows the forward motion of the other 



— 133 — 

fore leg. The more rapid the pressures from the 
rider's legs are changed, the more rapid, also, will 
the movements of the mount's legs become. If, 
at such a time, the horse starts to mince, usually- 
accompanied by going behind the reins,* he is 
pressed forward into a regular trot and put into a 
walk after support on the bit is established, after 
which the rider's legs again try to increase the 
speed of the walk. By demanding too much 
from the horse at this kind of walk, he easily 
breaks into pacing. Curing this fault requires 
restraint and unlimited patience. 

A horse coming direct from the stable should 
be ridden at a walk for the first ten minutes. 



To Pass from the Walk to the Trot. 

When the rider is able to maintain a fairly 
correct position and regular pace at a walk, the 
horse is put into the trot at the command: "Short 
trot — March!" which is done in the same manner 
as he is put into a walk from the stand, but with 
somewhat stronger pressure from the rider's legs.** 
During the first trot, which should be ridden at a 
very slow pace, the rider must pay more attention 
to his own position and balance than to the man- 
agement of the horse; therefore, he should keep 



*A horse that goes behind the reins is said to "balk" or to "gib." 
** In the manner that riding lessons are given in this country — 
without previous practice in balance-riding, without reins 
and with the horse held in a longe — the teaching of how to 
trot should certainly be practised with reins laid down on 
the horse's neck. 



— 134 — 

his hands as passive as possible, which may not 
be easy at first on account of the jogs caused by 
the motion of the horse. A pliable elbow joint 
and wrist, steady and well lowered shoulders, a 
limber ankle joint and instep, together with a 
lithe and straight downfall on the animal's back 
during the trot, are the essential conditions for a 
steady hand and sure seat. 

When the rider assumes a correct position 
in trotting, he will be thrown straight up and 
down, and not forward and backward. 

If, as frequently occurs during the first 
lessons in trotting, the rider get fatigued, causing 
a deranged position, the balance may be easily 
lost, and then the horse should be put into a walk 
and "at ease" (see page 131). 

When the rider can maintain his balance 
without supporting himself with the reins, then 
he will be able to turn his attention to the man- 
agement of the. horse and to a more energetic 
action or influence of his legs, thus producing a 
regulated short trot with the horse gathered and 
in balance. 

Should the horse slacken the trot or be 
inclined to go behind the reins, do not relax the 
reins, but urge him on with the legs up to the bit 
and against a steady and pliable hand. If he 
try to avoid the reins by falling into a gallop, he 
must be forced forward by the leg pressure, until 
he has taken proper support on the bit, after 
which soothing address and repeatedly slight 
and short tensions upon the reins are applied. 



— 135 — 

If it is difficult to re-establish the trot, then the 
horse's head should be bent very much to the side 
that "leads" in the gallop. Should he still persist 
in the gallop, then halt is made and the horse is 
put into a walk and a trot again. 



To Pass from the Trot to the Walk. 

Passing from the trot to a walk, the command 
is: "Walk — March!" which is carried out by a 
gradual tension upon the reins, at the same time 
the weight is carried backward and the rider's 
legs are quietly closed to the horse's sides in order 
to bring the hind legs under and prevent the 
horse from leaning forward. As soon as he gets into 
a walk, the hands resume their original position 
by degrees; the legs prevent the animal from 
halting, and when the walk has become regular, 
they are relaxed. 



To Halt from the Walk. 

The command is "Halt!" Apply the same 
aids as "From the Trot to the Walk." When the 
horse has stopped, the reins are immediately 
relaxed, so that the horse can assume the proper 
balance and position by moving his fore legs a 
little forward, while the rider's legs prevent the 
hind legs from drawing back or aside, and when 
the horse stands still in correct bearing, the 
rider relaxes his legs. 



— 136 — 

Every increase and decrease of the pace, as 
well as the halt, is at first performed by gradual, 
not abrupt, changes, and with the horse on a 
straight line. 



Turning Corners. 

As the corners of the riding-school, even from 
the first lesson, must be passed, it is necessary 
that the rider immediately learns the right way 
of doing it, although it can only be done correctly 
after practising "Bending the Horse" and "Side- 
Gaits." The corners are turned as a part of a 
circle, the radius of which, according to the speed, 
varies from one horse's length to half the breadth 
of the school. 

When the horse is approaching the corner, 
he is inclined to press the fore part out from the 
track (i.e., press up against the wall), and the 
hind part somewhat in; this is prevented by 
forcing the horse (using both legs, mostly the 
outward one) well forward on the reins, which are 
moved somewhat inward, but without bending 
neck and head outward. When in the corner, the 
horse is inclined to bring neck and head outward, 
slacken the pace, throw the shoulder in and cut 
the corner off in a flat curve ; tension on the inward 
rein prevents the neck and head from bending 
outward, while the rider's inward leg and a moving 
outward of both hands forces the animal forward 
and out in the corner. 



— 137 — 

The more the corners are rounded off, the 
easier the rider will find it to maintain his balance 
when turning corners, therefore, in the beginning — 
especially as the more rapid paces are practised — 
they should be ridden in such a manner that the 
short sides are passed in an even semi-circle, the 
middle of which reaches entirely out on the track 
of the square. Arrived at the point where the 
semi-circle is to begin, the rider conveys the weight 
slightly inward, eases the outward rein somewhat 
and keeps the horse well forward by using his 
legs, especially the inward one, which also prevents 
the horse from pressing in. 

As the rider's seat becomes surer, and, con- 
sequently, the use of the aids more effective, the 
corners are ridden out better by means of legs and 
reins, keeping the mount more straight forward 
towards the corner and preventing a pressing out 
before and in at the corner. As soon as the corner 
is turned, the rider's weight is carried straight on 
the horse and hands and legs back to their original 
position; if this be not done at the right time, the 
horse will naturally continue the turn and move 
into the centre of the school — no uncommon fault 
with beginners. 

The correct turning of a corner when at a 
walk, short trot or collected gallop should be done 
on an arc with a radius of not less than a horse's 
length, in medium and extended trot, with propor- 
tionately greater radius, and in extended gallop 
always with a radius equal to half the breadth of 
the school. 



- 138- 

Turning Diagonally Across the School. 

As all riding lessons must be performed to 
both hands, for the sake of the horse as well as 
the rider, the passing from one hand to the other 
is one of the most frequently occurring practices 
during the lessons. The easiest way to accom- 
plish this is by turning diagonally across the 
school at the command, "Turn across the school — 
March!" when the rider — after passing the corner 
from the short side, and reaching out on the long 
side — turns in and rides aslant across the school 
towards the diagonal corner and on a straight 

6 




Fig- 4 5 



line, ab (Fig. 45), which divides the school in 
two equal parts. 

Turning across the school is executed by 
the rider, after passing the corner, continuing with 
the same aids as during the turning of the corner, 
until the horse arrives on a slant line, the direction 
of which is fixed by the more of less rounding of 
the corner, because the horse must not be turned 
in, before the long side has been reached, which 
during the sharpest turning is done a horse's 
length from the corner. 



— 139 — 

Approaching the opposite long side, the horse 
is liable to press out (referring to the other hand) 
before reaching the track of the square; the same 
rules are observed as before turning the corner. 

In order that the line across the school may 
be straight and the turning in from the track 
not be continued too long, the rider, while turning, 
ought to fix his eyes on the diagonal corner, and 
during the turning, little by little, move the eye- 
mark towards the spot at the opposite long side 
where the turning out on the track is to be made; 
when the horse points straight against this spot, 
the turning-aid ceases. 

Riding in class, the leading rider turns as 
above described, the others following precisely 
in his track and keeping pace and distance. 



The Medium Trot. 

When the rider, without depending upon the 
reins for support, has obtained a sure seat at the 
short trot, a tolerably good management of the 
horse, and is able to apply the aids correctly for 
putting him into a trot and from a trot to walk, then 
the horse is passed over from the short trot to 
the medium trot at the command, ''Faster!' 1 
The same aids as "From the Walk to the Trot." 
When the rider's seat has become sure and steady 
in the medium trot, he tries, with his legs, to 
bring the hind legs more forward, and by well 
supporting reins the forehand is raised, thus 



— 140 — 

freeing the motions of the fore legs, i.e., the horse 
is moved into a correct pace. 

When again passing into a short trot, the 
command is, "Short trot — March!" which is done 
as "From the Trot to the Walk." 



Turning on Forehand with Horse's Head 
to the Front. 

Turning on the forehand is accomplished 
at the stand, as the horse, with one fore foot as 
centre of rotation, moves the other three, legs on 
arcs around the first one. In these turnings the 
legs always move at a slow walk and, in the be- 
ginning, only one step at a time, with halt between 
each step. The horse must never be allowed to 
draw back during the turning, but rather step 
slightly forward. The intention of the turning 
decides its circumference. Turnings on the fore- 
hand should not be practised too much, as it 
might cause injury to the forepart, owing to its 
loaded condition during such turning. 

For practice, a turning around (half circle) is 
accomplished in 6 steps and at the command, 
"On forehand, right (or left) about (one step at a 
time) — March!" with decided halt between each 
step. When the horse stands in proper bearing 
with slight support on the bit, the hands are 
held still and low, while the right (or left) leg 
presses the hind part one step over to the left (or 
right) and by a pressure of the left (or right) leg 



— 141 — 

just behind the girth, the left (or right) fore leg 
is brought a short step forward around the right 
(or left) one. The rider's weight is slightly to 
the side, where the hind part is moving. As soon 
as the hind legs are put in motion, pressure of 
the leg ceases, so that the horse may take but 
one step at a time; should he, nevertheless, 
continue to move, it is counteracted by the other 
leg of the rider and by a slight feeling of the rein on 
the same side; the rider uses the same aids, but 
with somewhat stronger action, should the horse 
also move the shoulders over to the side where he 
moves his croup. Step by step it is continued in 
this manner until the turning is completed. Later 
on, the steps are taken after each other without 
interruption but still measured and never more 
rapid than at ordinary walking-pace. 



Bending the Horse's Neck at the Stand and while 

in Motion. 

As the structure of many horses will not allow 
bending only from the poll of the neck, one or 
more of the vertebrae of the neck — according to 
its shape — must participate in the bending of the 
head. Although bendings of the neck, strictly 
speaking, belong more particularly to breaking, 
being a preparation for bending the head, still 
every rider should, nevertheless, have some 
knowledge of it. 

a. At the Stand. With low hands and light 
takings of the reins, the neck is bent until the 



— 142 — 

position of the head becomes perpendicular; the 
rider's legs prevent the horse from backing. When 
the horse, with head straight, readily bends the 
neck, which he signifies, as a rule, by champing 
the bit, then bendings to the sides are practised; 
these bendings must not be made greater than to 
let the horse's nose reach his shoulder joint and 
not all the way to the rider's leg. The command 
is, "Bending of neck to the right (or left)\" With 
low hand, the right (or left) rein is gradually 
drawn (shortened) ; the left (or right) rein gives 
way entirely at the beginning, while the hand, 
without letting go the rein, is moved forward and 
rubs the horse, in a caressing manner, from in 
front backwards and down the left (or right) side of 
the neck, which then again slowly (i.e., the hands 
are by degrees brought into their original posi- 
tion) is straightened and the same movements 
performed to the other side. If the horse accom- 
modates himself quietly to this, the outward rein 
should not give way, then, entirely, but only as 
much as the inward rein is drawn. Repeatedly 
slight pressures from the inward leg, without 
turning the horse, assist in the bending. If the 
animal avoid bendings of the neck to the side by 
turning on the forehand, or if they are accom- 
panied by such turning, and if this cannot be 
prevented by careful use of the outward leg and 
rein, together with moving the weight inward, 
then let the horse walk quietly around until he 
stops this, which, as a rule, soon will occur. In 
the riding-school such a turning on the forehand 



— 143 — 

may be partly prevented by placing the horse 
with outward side up against the wall. 

By raising the hands little by little and by less 
giving of the outward rein, the bendings of the 
neck are taken only in the uppermost vertebrae of 
the neck, i.e., gradual passing over to bendings of 
the head (from the poll). 

b. In motion. When the horse takes the 
bendings of the neck correctly at the stand, these 
are also practised while in motion and on both 
hands. Bendings to the side are not made so 
great as they are when at the stand, and at first 
only to the inward side. Apply the same aids 
as "At the Stand," with, however, an increased 
use of the inward leg and the weight slightly 
outward, which will prevent the horse from 
turning in ; the outward leg prevents the haunches 
from swerving more than to allow the inward 
hind hoof to step in the mark of the outward fore 
hoof. Later on, bendings of the neck outward on 
the long side and inward on the short side are 
practised, during which it is observed that the 
bending is changed before the rider, coming from 
the long side, turns the corner. In this way, 
bendings of the neck are at first practised at a 
walk, later at a short trot. 



Bending the Horse's Head at the Stand 
and while in Motion. 

Every rider will soon experience the advan- 
tage and comfort of having a horse with well 



— 144 



shaped and correctly placed neck and head, 
because upon the correct carriage of the fore 
part depends the bearing of the whole horse, i.e., 
the balance of the body, by which perfection in 
movement is attained. As before mentioned (see 
"Carriage of the Horse when Mounted") it is the 
"habitual bearing" of the horse, i.e., the carriage 
that he possesses, when no additional influences 




Fig. 46. 

are forthcoming, which decides the position that 
may be given to neck and head, and the rider must 
bear in mind that all horses cannot be schooled 
to assume the same bearing. Judging from the 
rider's point of view, on a well shaped neck, the 
bending should take place at the very poll (see Fig. 
43 and page 123), without the other portion of 
the neck taking any part; but as such a neck 
and union between neck and head (see page 9) are 



— 145 — 

exceptional, it must generally be allowed that the 
vertebrae of the neck nearest to the poll partake 
somewhat in the bending, when only the poll 
remains the highest point and the neck does not 
assume the wheel shape (Fig. 44, page 125) or 
becomes snapped {Fig. 46), i.e., the front half 
of the crest forms a horizontal line or even slants 
downward. 

a. Bending of the head placed straight. When the 
rider's seat is sure at a medium trot and he under- 
stands how to apply the aids rightly, then bending 
of the horse's head placed straight is practised, 
first at a short trot, later on at a walk and finally 
at the stand. During such bending, the neck 
should point straight forward from the withers, 
therefore, the rider's hands are kept close together 
and just above the withers; by which the neck is 
kept pressed in between the reins, thus avoiding 
false bendings; by this means throwing of the 
head may also be prevented. The bending is 
performed by a light feeling of the reins; at the 
same time, the rider's legs must prevent any 
reduction of pace. In most horses, a raising of 
the neck is necessary, in order to produce bending 
at the very poll. If this is found necessary, then 
the hands are raised just enough to let the reins 
come close under the edge of the horse's jaws. 
On the contrary, if his head (nose) is to be lowered, 
the hands are placed lower; if necessary, quite 
down upon the withers. Before the hands are 
raised, in order to produce a higher bearing of the 
neck, the bending of the head into the perpen- 

10 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 146 — 

dicular position must always be awaited before 
further raising of the neck. When in this manner 
the horse, by degrees, is brought to the correct 
carriage of neck and head, which should be suited 
to his structure and to the object in view, the 
hands remain quiet and pliable until the horse 
yields to the bit; the rider's legs keep him from 
going behind the reins. 

If the horse readily goes into correct bearing 
with neck and head during motion, halt is made 
and the rider tries if the horse, with low position 
of the neck and with nose dropped, may be brought 
to stand for the reins, i.e., if the horse, without 
drawing back or leaning backwards, and without 
pulling on the reins, will allow the reins to rest 
slightly tightened. If this is done, the neck is 
raised and the head bent, while the hands accord- 
ingly are raised or lowered; the rider well down 
in the seat, his legs only acting to keep the horse 
at the stand. Should he, nevertheless, draw 
backwards, too severe aid of the legs must not be 
applied, but he must be left alone until he stops, 
which generally occurs very soon. When the 
horse has yielded to and champs the bit, the hands 
remain quiet, in order that the horse may feel 
that he secures light and relieving reins by yielding. 

When the rider's attention is called by the 
instructor to the horse's neck and head having 
taken correct bearing, there are two measures by 
the eye which the rider should bear in mind. The 
one is the perpendicular distance between his 
horizontal line of vision and the poll of the neck, 



— H7 — 



i.e., the raising of the 
neck ; the other is the 
distance from the 
hands of the rider to 
the mouth of the ani- 
mal (the length of the 
reins), i.e., the bend- 
ing of the head. 

b. Bending of the 
head sideways (Fig. 
4j) completes the 
bending of the head 
placed straight and is 
a preparation for 
"Bending the 
Horse," and is also the 
means of making the 
horse easily turned. 
With ordinary riding 
horses, bending of 
the head to the sides 
is taken very slightly 
(see page 97). Cor- 
rectly accomplished 
bending of the 

head to the sides requires that the neck does not 
lean or twist to the sides and that at least the 
four vertebrae nearest to the shoulder remain in 
the middle line ab (see Fig. 47), and also that 
the head retain its perpendicular position, i.e., the 
poll must not point to one side and the nose to 
the other. 




Fig. 47- 



— 148 — 

When the rider has learned to bring the 
horse's neck and head into fairly correct bearing 
when placed straight, bending of the head to the 
sides is then practised, at first at the stand, 
later on at a walk and at a short trot and at 
the command: " Bend horse's head to the right (or 
left)!" 

I. At the stand. By repeated and light play 
with the inward rein — while the inward hand is 
moved straight above the middle of the horse 
— and by corresponding giving of the out- 
ward rein, the edge of the inward jaw is 
drawn nearer the inward muscles of the neck and 
the outward one withdrawn from the outward 
ones. The rider's inward leg assists in the bending, 
while the outward one, together with the outward 
rein, prevent shoulder and haunches from flying 
out. The outward rein prevents wrong bendings 
of the neck by being placed tightly over the strong- 
est false bending (also see pages 97 and 105). The 
rider's weight should be even. 

In order to avoid bendings of the head to the 
side, the horse will commonly place himself un- 
evenly on his legs, stand lightly on or lift the 
inward fore leg and lean the outward shoulder 
outwards; his legs are then directly brought back 
into proper position (see page 125), principally by 
means of the rider's outward leg and rein. 

II. In motion. This practice is commenced 
when the rider understands how to place 
the horse in balance, by which he carries himself 
lightly on the reins, i.e., self sustaining on the fore 



— 149 — 

part. The aid of rein and of leg same as under I ; 
weight slightly outward. Both legs of the rider 
maintain the pace. At first the haunches may 
be permitted to swerve a trifle outward, not more, 
however, than to allow the outward fore leg and 
inward hind leg to step in the same prints. As 
the rider, during this practice, grows more pro- 
ficient in the use of the aids, an increased use of 
the outward leg and rein must produce such an 
effect that the hind legs follow exactly in the 
prints of the fore legs, by which is produced, to 
some extent, a gradual going over to "Bending 
the Horse." Bendings of the head to the sides 
should, at first, be taken only to the inward side, 
but later on to the outward side at the long side, 
and to the inward side at the short side of the 
school; and when the horse, during such bending, 
follows correctly the track, the bending outward 
is also attempted at the short side of the school. 

Add I and II. If the horse does not bend 
equally well to both sides, bending to the side, 
which is more rigid, is especially practised. 

When the bending of the head sideways is 
to cease, the command is: "Place horse's head 
straight!" While easing the inward rein, the 
outward one places the head straight. 

Add a and b. As bending of the head is 
often very fatiguing to the horse, especially 
when the joining of neck and head is unfavourable, 
discretion must be used that he is not provoked 
to obstinacy, for it is more by stratagem than 
strength that the rider overcomes the horse's 



— 150 — 

power of resistance. Short repetitions, reasonable 
demands and, when the horse has yielded, the 
word "Easy!" accompanied by caresses, are the 
quickest means of achieving the desired suppleness 
of the neck. 

During bendings of the head, make it a fixed 
rule that a passive (non-yielding) mouth requires 
an active (alternate feeling and easing) hand by 
the rider, while an active (yielding) mouth requires 
a passive, but pliable (stationary) hand. 

Backing. 

Although most horses naturally object to 
back, still every well broken horse should be 
equally willing to step backward as forward, 
when only the right aids are used. 

Besides being a manner of moving the horse, 
when no other movement would answer the 
purpose, backing is also a means of disciplining 
him, i.e., awakening the blunt, punishing the 
disobedient, and calming down quick-tempered 
animals. As a means of breaking, backing improves 
the carriage of the fore part and the bending of 
the joints of the haunches, or, in other words, it is 
an introduction to "collection at the stand." 

Contrary to advancing, the fore part is, 
during backing, the shoving off, and the hind part 
the supporting one, for this reason more weight 
on the hind part is necessary to bring the hind 
legs nearer under the centre of gravity, by which 
the fore legs are lifted freely and not dragged. 



— i5i — 

Backing should be performed on a straight line 
in short, regular steps and begin with a hind leg, 
which is then followed by this one's diagonal fore 
leg, etc. If the hind legs be placed backward, the 
movement will commence with a dragging step 
backward of a fore leg, generally followed by the 
hind leg on the same side. 

When the rider has learned to convey his 
horse into correct bearing at the stand and to 
stand with easy support on the bit, then backing 
may be practised — at first only one step at a time, 
later on even up to 6 or 8 steps in succession, and 
at the command, "(i, 2, j, etc. step) Backward — 
March!" Having brought the horse into the 
best possible carriage at the stand, he will, during 
further attempts at gathering, show inclination 
to back, which is allowed one step, when a slight 
easing of the reins and increased pressure of the 
rider's legs stops the backing. If more steps are 
to be taken in succession, the reins take and give 
at each step, while the legs keep the horse con- 
stantly on the reins, so that he will not draw 
behind the bit, i.e., the rider feels as if the horse is 
equally willing to stop, to advance, or to back 
further, by the proper application of the aids at 
any step. While backing, the rider's seat is firm, 
his weight and legs backward, and hands gener- 
ally low. 

Still, backing can only be done correctly when 
the rider has learned to collect his horse, while, 
during this, he acts as if advancing, but at the 
moment the animal is about to advance, as it 



— 152 — 

were, the rider hesitates and increases the feeling 
of the reins in proportion to the pressure of his 
legs. ^ 

Should the horse back too rapidly, strong 
aid of the legs is applied, and, if needed, the horse 
is pressed a few steps forward, after which backing 
is resumed. 

If the horse try to step aside with the haunches, 
this is prevented by a strengthened use ofueg and 
rein on the side to which he steps. * 

As punishment, backing is applied to horses 
that rest too hard on the rein and are constantly 
trying to increase the pace. In this case the horse 
is made to back quickly and several steps at a 
time, whereupon he is ridden forward again at the 
same pace as before. In order to calm down quick- 
tempered horses, they are made to stand still a 
few moments after backing, then ridden forward 
a few steps, then backward the same number of 
steps and continued thus with soothing words, 
until quieted. 

Backing must be practised with caution and 
not too frequently, especially with horses that 
have weak back or hind quarters. 



The Extended Trot. 

When the rider's seat is sure in the medium 
trot, he goes from this over to the extended 
trot (see page 118) at the command, "Extended 
trot — March!" Without losing the support on the 



— 153 — 

bit, the reins are eased just enough to allow the 
horse to step out. The legs of the rider press the 
horse cautiously into the faster pace, the leg 
pressure being repeated as often as he tries to 
slacken the speed or go behind the reins. The 
rider's body should be erect, not inclined forward. 

Perfection in the extended trot cannot be 
attained without an even and good support on 
the bit, which depends upon a sure and quiet seat 
and a lithe, steady hand, and without stretching 
the trot to the extent that the horse may break 
into a gallop. If he goes into gallop, a slackening 
of the speed must not be allowed — on the contrary, 
the rider's legs must keep him well forward and 
up to the bit (also see page 134). 

If the horse be inclined to hang on the reins 
and to click, the hands are raised, at the same time 
as repeated pressure of the rider's legs try to pro- 
duce a more active movement of the fore legs. 

While turning the corners and short side of 
the school at the extended trot, the rider must 
watch closely that the horse does not press inward 
and thus shorten the way. Even if the corners 
are rounded ever so much, the horse must, at the 
middle of the short side, be quite out on the track 
(otherwise see "Turning Corners"). If this be 
neglected, the animal may easily slip or even fall, 
causing injury to itself and rider. 

If riding in class a following horse goes into a 
gallop, he is forced forward until at a distance of 
one step from the rider in front, and then again 
put into a trot; failing this, the horse is then 



— 154 — 

ridden closely up on the inner side of the rider in 
front and kept there until he has been^ade to 
trot, after which the former place in the file is 
resumed. 

If the extended trot is to be changed to 
medium or short trot, the command is: "Slower!" 
or "Short trot — March!" when the rules for passing 
"from the trot to the walk" are applied. 



Collecting the Horse. 

To collect the horse is to transfer a greater 
or smaller part of weight and work on the hind 
quarters, and in order that this may be done, he 
must be pressed together lengthwise, as if he were 
made shorter, i.e., neck and head are brought into 
bearing (gathered), the back is lowered slightly, 
and the joints of the hind legs are bent, thus 
bringing the hind hoofs further under him and 
nearer the centre of gravity. It is only through 
the work of collection that we can impart to the 
animal the balanced carriage, which is necessary 
to the ordinary riding horse in most cases, and 
which is the condition of proportionate distribu- 
tion of weight and work on the fore and hind 
parts. Collection, by transferring a greater weight 
to the hind quarters, is performed occasionally, 
but generally only when a great and sudden 
exertion of strength is required of the animal. 

When the rider has attained sufficient skill 
in bringing the horse's neck and head into correct 
bearing at the stand and in motion, collection is 



— i55 — 

practised, and, as experience has shown that 
greater skill is necessary to accomplish this at the 
stand, it ought, therefore, to be practised during 
motion first, rather than at the stand. Irregu- 
larities arising more readily and being harder to 
remedy, when collecting the horse at a walk than 
it is at a trot, the first lessons should take place 
at the trot, later on at the walk and the short 
gallop. In extended trot, extended gallop and 
carriere, the horse is only collected when being 
taken in. 

I. In motion. From the short trot one 
passes over into the collected trot (see page 119) at 
the command, "Short collected trot — March!" 
While reducing the pace somewhat and bringing 
the rider's weight more over on the hind quarters, 
the rider's legs, carried well backward, act as if 
the horse were to be put into a faster pace, while, 
at the same time, this is prevented, by an easy 
taking upon the reins; these aids, acting against 
each other, make the animal lower its back and 
move the hind legs more forward, promoting 
higher and freer action of the fore legs. The aids 
are repeated as often as required and so adapted 
that the pace shall not be altered. In the collected 
trot, the rider will feel the jogs more plainly, and 
be apt to slide backward in the seat. 

From a walk and from a stand-still, the 
collected trot is accomplished by strengthened 
use of the legs and easier reins. 

If the horse is to be collected at a walk (see 
page 117), the same aids are applied as at a trot, 



- 156- 

but with greater caution, the steps a trifle shorter 
than at the ordinary walk. I 

Should the horse, in collected motion, move 
with light support on the bit, the hands are kept 
quiet and lithe; the rider's legs keep up the pace 
and prevent the horse from going behind the 
reins. 

Collection during motion is principally used 
in passing over from a faster to a slower pace and 
in order to prepare for the halt, but also in passing 
over into faster pace, such as from walk or trot to 
gallop. 

II. At the stand. When the rider in good 
position, and without disturbing the pace, is able 
to collect his horse at a trot and at a walk, collec- 
tion at the stand is practised. The same aids 
are applied as during motion, in that the rider, 
with his legs well backward, acts as if putting the 
horse into motion, which, however, is prevented 
by the reins and the rider's weight. In this manner 
the reins keep the forehand at a stand-still, while 
the rider's legs bring both hind legs equally 
toward the fore legs and prevent the former from 
stepping aside, and the backward placed weight 
of the rider makes the animal lower its back. 
Usually the collection at the stand is forced no 
further than to make the hind hoofs stand straight 
under the hips of the horse; by closer collection, 
for instance, by going into collected gallop from 
the stand, one or both hind hoofs may be brought 
quite in under the centre of gravity, i.e., in the 
prolongation of the rider's spine, by which the 



- 157 - 

horse's forehand may be raised and the fore legs 
be bent in a manner to make the under surface of 
the fore hoofs draw near to the elbow (Fig. 48) ; 
this degree of collection (pesade) ought only to be 
practised by very clever riders and on horses with 
strong backs and hind quarters, and it must be 
done with great caution and not degenerate into 
rearing. jj > 




^_. •"» 



Fig. 48. 



Horses that are apt to draw behind the reins 
during collection at the stand are pressed a few 
short steps forward in order to attain a belter 
support on the bit. Horses that, on the contrary, 



- 158- 

rest heavily on the reins are collected by backing 
a few steps. 

Collection at the stand should precede all 
advancing and backing, as through this the horse 
obeys the rider's influences more readily. 

All collection is in vain as long as the fore 
part is not brought into correct bearing. 

If the collection is to cease and the horse be 
restored to his position with all legs straight up 
and down, it is accomplished by advancing the 
fore legs, while the rider's legs, during easing the 
reins, keep the hind legs still. 



Halts. 

By halts are meant reining in the horse in 
motion, with or without the aid of the rider's legs. 
One distinguishes between the half-halt and the 
halt thus: the former consists in a taking on the 
reins, without altering the pace, or in going over 
from a faster to a slower pace; the latter in a 
complete halt from any pace. 

I. The half -halt consists in a short and evenly 
increasing tension upon the reins, which is re- 
peated until the object is achieved, but which 
must never degenerate into jerks on the reins. 
Half-halts are applied when the horse is avoiding 
collection, hanging upon the reins, increasing the 
pace and when his attention to the aids has to be 
aroused. If the horse avoids collection, then reins, 
weight and legs are applied and adjusted pro- 
portionately to each other and to the temperament 



— 159 — 

and structure of the animal. With horses that 
hang upon the reins, raising tensions on the reins, 
together with the rider's weight brought backward, 
are applied, until the fore part goes into correct 
bearing, when the legs also are applied in order to 
bring the haunches under. With spirited horses 
that are inclined to increase the pace and "collect 
themselves," so to speak, reins and weight are 
applied, but .not legs, for the last mentioned would 
only make such animals rush still more. 

In the above mentioned ways, half-halts may 
be applied in order to arouse the attention of the 
horse, when the cautionary words of command for 
the prescribed practices during lessons are pro- 
nounced. 

With lazy and restive horses and with those 
inclined to go behind the bit, half-halts must be 
used cautiously and with a predominant aid of 
legs. 

The rider must try to acquire the sensation of 
knowing when the half-halts have availed, for 
if continued after the attainment of the object, 
schooling that has been with great difficulty 
imparted to the animal, may easily be upset. 

The following practice may serve as illustra- 
tion to half-halts, when the rider, at the words, 
"Halt! Back! Forward!" lets these movements 
pass almost imperceptibly one into the other. 

II. The complete halt cannot be performed 
with certainty until the rider, by means of half- 
halts has learned to bring the haunches under the 
horse. Complete halts should be performed with 



— 160 — 






predominant aid of legs anjfr weight, in order to 
enable the horse to stop the speed with his hind 
quarters and not come to a stand-still on the forehand, 
which is injurious to the animal and very disagree- 
able to the rider. At first the halt is performed 
by degrees and with evenly decreasing speed, 
while during this the rider keeps the horse gathered 
and collected, but as the rider gains in skill, the 
halt is accomplished more speedily, although 
adjusted always to the rider's ability and to the 
schooling and strength of the animal. After the 
halt, the horse must not be kept in the collected 
position (see "To Halt from the Walk"). 

Halts may be used with spirited horses when 
half -halts do not avail (otherwise see "Backing"). 

Passing over from faster to slower paces and 
to halt can, by means of preparatory half -halts, be 
accomplished more abruptly, although they must 
never be executed with violence, especially when 
the difference is considerable. 



Bending the Horse. 

This means curving the whole body of the 
horse by which one side of the animal, as it were, 
is shortened and the other one correspondingly 
lengthened, i.e., the muscles on the one side are 
contracted, while those on the opposite side are 
expanded; the concave side is always called the 
inward side, the convex one the outward. 

During riding with horse bent, his legs act 
much the same as at the gallop, i.e., the outward 



— 161 — 

hind leg shoves off strongly, the inward hind leg 
is bent considerably and placed far under him, 
the outward fore leg is advanced and, with the 
inward hind leg, supports the weight of the body, 
and the inward fore leg is raised. 

When the rider has learned to balance the 
horse, to place his neck in correct bearing, to bend 
his head and to collect him, bending the horse is 
practised preparatory to side-gaits, riding on 
curved lines, and the gallop. 

When on the sides of the school bending the 
horse is practised, the word is given: "Bend the 
horse to the right (or left)!" The rider bends the 
horse's head to the right (or left), while both 
hands are brought so much outward that the 
inward hand is placed above the middle line of 
the horse; the inward leg, just behind the girth, 
presses the middle part of the horse outward, at 
the same time as the outward leg, placed further 
back, supports the hind quarters and prevents 
them from flying out; fore and hind feet should 
follow in the same track; the rider's weight 
equally on the horse's back or rather some- 
what to the inward side. The use of the 
different reins and the rider's legs has already been 
mentioned under ''Handling the Reins" and "The 
Aids in Horsemanship." 

On curved lines, during side-gaits and gallop, 
the horse is bent to the inward side and without 
any special command or at the cautionary word 
of command, provided the word, contra-bending, i.e., 
bending to the opposite side of the hand to which 

ii — Handbook for Riders. 



l62 

the horse is moving, hasj not previously been 
given. 

Changing the bend of the horse is also per- 
formed without any special command when 
passing over from one hand to the other; the 
change is done gradually and without any dis- 
turbance of the pace. 

In riding on curved lines, the bend of the 
horse should always be adjusted to the curve, 
and the rider must bear in mind not to make 
the bend too strong. 

When on straight lines, bending the horse 
should be discontinued, the word is given — "Un- 
bend the horse!" The unbending should be 
gradual, while the hands, legs and weight of 
the rider resume their original position by 
degrees. 

Turning on Forehand with Horse's Head 
Bent Sideways. 

This turning is accomplished by the same 
rules, the same command and the same aids as 
"Turning on Forehand with Horse's Head to the 
Front" (see page 140); but at the cautionary 
word of command, the horse's head is bent to the 
side, to which the turn is made (the inward). In 
turning the horse on his forehand with his head 
bent sideways — and especially if the head be bent 
much sideways — the forehand is more apt to 
move outward than it is when the turn is per- 
formed with head to the front; increased use of 



— 1 63 — 

the outward leg and rein is then required. If 
the horse should, notwithstanding this, press the 
forehand outward, his head may (at the command, 
11 With contra-bend on forehand right (or left) about- 
March!") be bent to the opposite side of the one 
to which the turn is made. 

L:? During turns on the forehand, the rider's 
hands should be kept as passive as possible, for 
the reins have only to keep the inner fore leg in 
place and not to prevent the outer one from 
advancing. 

When the turn is completed, the horse's head 
is placed to the front, and, if he be apt to draw 
backward, he is made to advance a few short 
steps. 

The Great Circle. 

The circumference of the great circle should 
be so described as to reach out on the track at the 
middle of one short side of the school and at the 
two long sides or only at the (two) latter ones — 
the diameter being always the breadth of the 
school. By placing the great circle at one of the 
ends of the school, the rider will have three marks 
(points of contact) to go by, and, in keeping his 
attention directed to them, he may be able to 
describe a regular circle with his horse. The 
half of the circle that touches the short side at 
the middle and also the two long sides is named 
the closed part, the other half the open one. 

At an early stage of the riding lessons, and 



— v 164 — 

before "Bending the Horse" has been taught, 
riding on the great circle should be practised in 
order to develop the rider's balance; the same 
aids are then applied as in "Turning Corners" 
at first. |- However, the great circle can only be 
ridden correctly when the rider has been taught 
to bend the horse, the knowledge of which is 
easiest acquired by riding on the great circle, 
because the horse's body should then constantly 
and evenly remain curved to the inward side. 
With fiery and nervous horses, riding on the great 
circle sets them at ease. 

The horse, going round by the side of the 
school, is put on the great circle at the command, 
"Great circle — March!" At the cautionary word 
of command, the horse is bent to the inward side, 
and at the word "March," the rider describes a 
circle according to the breadth of the manege, by 
bringing his weight inward, by increased pressure 
of the outward leg and feeling the inward rein. 
In order to form a perfect circle, too frequent 
influences must be avoided, as these easily disturb 
the pace and cause riding in a zigzag line instead 
of a circle. If the rider keep a steady seat, reins 
and legs in their proper position and his weight 
slightly inward and backward (the rider should, 
according to the speed, assume the same inward 
angle as the horse), a trained horse will most 
frequently keep on the circle of his own accord. 
The commonest faults, while riding on the great 
circle, are that the horse does not get sufficiently 
out on the track at the "marks," or the "marks" 



- i6 5 — 

may be displaced in the manner shown by the 
dotted line on Fig. 49 (page 166), representing a 
great circle ridden to the right hand. How to 
prevent and correct these faults is explained under 
"The Aids in Horsemanship." 

When the horse is to follow the side of the 
school from the great circle, it should be done from 
one of the "marks" and at the command " Straight 
on — March!" "In placing his weight evenly on the 
horse and unbending him, the rider guides his 
horse on to the track by the inward leg and the 
outward rein. 

When riding in class on the great circle, the 
leading rider acts as here described; the others 
follow in his track, keeping their distances and 
the same rules. 



Turning while in Motion. 

This is always performed on circular lines, 
which are at first made wide, but, as the rider 
makes progress, the turns should gradually be 
made shorter, still always with proper considera- 
tion for the pace, the strength of the horse, and 
the education of horse and rider. At the walk, 
the short trot and the short gallop, the turns are 
correctly executed when they form a part of a 
circle with the diameter of 2 horses' length (i.e., 
a small circle) ; at the extended trot and the 
extended gallop, the turns should be made as if 
riding on great circles. In riding with horse's 
head to the front, at the cautionary word of com- 



\ _ j66 — 

mand, all turns are prepared for by gathering the 
horse and bending him to the inner side ; otherwise 
the same rules are observed as in turning in on 
the great circle, though the different aids should 
be adjusted according to the arc to be described 
and without disturbance of the pace. In practising 
the turns, they are made in the easiest way from 
one side of the school over to the opposite one 
and in such a manner that the horse, after having 
completed the turn, forms an angle of 45 (Fig. 49, 
ab) or 90 (Fig. 49, cd) to his original direction. 
By the former turn (J), the rider will, after crossing 
the manege, be moving to the other hand, like in 
"Turning Diagonally Across the School," whereas 
the latter (\) is executed the same as "Turning 
Corners." 




Fig. 49. 



The rider being upon one of the long sides, 
the \ turn is made at the command, "Right (or 
Left) half turn — March!''' When the turn is com- 
pleted, the rider moves obliquely to the opposite 
side and, before turning out on the track, changes 
the bend of the horse, 



— 167 — 

The J turn is made at the command, "Right 
(or Left) turn — March!" When the turn is com- 
pleted* the rider moves at a right angle to the 
opposite side, where the horse is turned to the 
same hand as before and without any special 
command. If, on the contrary, at the J turn, the 
hand should be changed, the word "Change!" 
will then be given when half way across the 
manege, in order to give the rider sufficient time 
to change the bend of the horse before arriving 
at the other side of the school. 

When riding in class, these turns are made 
by all at the same time. 

If, when riding in class, the turns should be 
made successively, the command is: "Leading 
rider right (or left) half turn {or right [or left] turn) — 
March!" The leading rider executes J or J turn; 
the others follow his movements and turn succes- 
sively on the same place as the leading rider; on 
arriving at the opposite side of the school, the 
same rules are observed by each rider in succession, 
as previously explained for simultaneous turns. 

The commonest faults that arise during a turn 
are that the horse, when turned in from the side, 
turns too sharply, and, before turning out on the 
opposite side, presses out; the former of these 
faults is remedied by the inward leg and the out- 
ward rein, and the hands brought slightly outward, 
the latter by the outward leg and rein and. the 
hands somewhat inward, but without drawing 
the horse's head outward. 

If the turn is to be made with "contra-bend," 



' _ ^8 — 

it should be announced before commencing it; 
the position of legs and reins is then changed ; thus 
what has been explained previously about the 
use of the inward (or outward) aids refers in that 
case to the outward (or inward). 



Change in Crossing the Great Circle. 

To change hands while moving on the great 
circle, the command is, "Change across the circle — 
March!" The rider turns his horse towards the 
centre of the circle and moves on a line which 
should divide the circle into two equal parts. At 
first, and always at more rapid paces, this line 
should be given the shape of the letter S, the two 
semi-circles should be equal and meet in the centre. 
In slower paces and as the rider makes progress, the 
middle part of the S-shaped line is straightened 
out by degrees until it becomes a straight line, 
only leaving an arc at each end. On the centre 
the bend of the horse is changed. The turn is 
easiest made from the "mark" by the long side 
after passing the closed part of the great circle. 

When riding in class, the leading rider turns 
as prescribed; the others follow exactly in his 
track and do the same. 

The most common faults are that the turning 
in from the track of the circle is made too wide, by 
which the centre is frequently not passed through ; 
and that the turning out on the track is made too 
short. The former fault may be prevented by the 
outward leg and rein, and by bringing the hands 



— 169 — 

slightly inward, and the latter one should be 
corrected by the inward leg and the outward rein 
and by moving the hands slightly outward. 



Yielding Sideways to the Rider's Leg. 

In this exercise the rider is taught how to 
make the hind quarters of the horse, while ad- 
vancing, yield to the pressure of one leg. The 
rider will already have learned from "turning 
corners" and from "turning on forehand" how 
the horse or only his hind quarters can be made to 
yield to a predominant pressure of the inner leg. 
As an introduction to the regular stepping sideways 
the horse may, on the long side of the school, be 
brought, by degrees, a few steps sideways in from 
the track,— continuing forward at the same time, 
— by a stronger pressure of the outward leg and 
the rider's weight brought inward; by reversing 
the aids, the horse should, in a similar manner, be 
moved back to the track. In these movements 
the horse should all the time remain unbent and 
his haunches must not precede the shoulders, but 
rather the reverse. In the regular stepping side- 
ways (upon two tracks), used as a preliminary 
practice to side-gaits, the horse should, while 
advancing on the great circle, move his fore and 
hind feet in two different paths, the inner (or 
outer) hind foot to step in the print from the 
outer (or inner) fore foot, and the fore feet remain- 
ing on the track of the great circle. It is at first 



— 170 — 

practised at the walk and later on at the short 
trot. 

The rider, being on the great circle and having 
passed its closed part and its "mark" at the long 
side, the word is given, il Hind quarters out!" By 
a stronger pressure of the inward leg, the horse's 
haunches are brought outside the track of the 
circle, on which the fore feet should remain; the 
pressure of the leg ceases and is repeated when 
required; the rider's weight being slightly out- 
ward. If needed, an increased use of the inner 
rein is applied, but without noticeable bending of 
the horse's neck. The pace should remain un- 
changed all the time. Having, in this manner, 
passed the open part of the great circle, on arriving 
near the other long side, the rider brings his 
weight inward, while his outward leg, assisted by 
the outward rein, moves the hind quarters in on 
the track of the circle; the word is then given 
11 Hind quarters in!" By a stronger use of the 
outward leg and rein — without bending the horse's 
head outward — the horse's haunches are moved 
within the track of the circle, on which the forehand 
should remain. Thus, the yielding to the rider's 
inward or outward leg may be continued until 
ease and correctness in the movements are 
attained. To change hands during this practice, 
the turning on forehand to the side, where the 
horse's hind feet are stepping sideways, is most 
suitable to the purpose. 

When riding in class, the yielding sideways 
to the rider's leg is commenced by the leading 



— 171 — 

rider, followed by each rider in succession and 
executed at the same points and in the same 
manner as above explained. 



Side-Gaits. 

• Side-gaits, also called the lateral gaits, are the 
motions of the horse in which he should be bent (see 
pages 1 60 and 161) and collected, and his fore and 
hind feet move on two separate paths, advancing 
sideways, with one shoulder preceding the other, 
and in such a manner that the horse's legs, to the 
side where the rider's "sideways-moving" leg is, 
step in front of and in a line with the two other 
legs.* The tracks of the fore and hind feet must 
be parallel or concentric, according to whether 
the side-gaits are executed upon straight or cir- 
cular lines. 

Side-gaits for the horse are the same as 
gymnastics for human beings, being the means of 
rendering the body and the limbs supple, by 
which the horse is made more fit to obey the rider's 
influences rapidly and accurately. They also fit 
the animal for the more vigorous efforts which are 
frequently required of the riding horse; by the 
practice of side-gaits he also acquires the knack of 
moving his legs with safety and correctness in all 
paces. 

When the rider has learned to collect his 
horse while in motion, to bend his horse, and to 

* The so-called closing travers, being an exception to this 
rule, will be separately explained later on. 



— 172 — 

make him yield sideways to the rider's leg cor- 
rectly, the side-gaits may be practised first at 
the walk, later on at the short trot, and partly at 
the short gallop; they may be executed on the 
track of the square or on that of the great circle 
and, when proper skill has been attained, also in 
turnings and upon small circles ; they should always 
be performed at the collected paces. In the streets 
and on roads, side-gaits should not be practised. 
As a preliminary practice in order to facilitate 
the work of the horse, the side-gaits should com- 
mence without any bending of the horse's head 
sideways, thereby preventing such bending from 
being made too great, i.e., the bend not being in 
the very poll of the neck, but partly in some lower 
parts of the neck,* in which case the horse would 
avoid the exercise, because the wrong bend of the 
neck would cause his shoulders to swerve outward 
and not to lead off, which they should do. How- 
ever, as the carrying out of the side-gaits with 
horse's head to the front can be understood from 
what will be explained about those with horse's head 
bent sideways, the latter only will be fully treated 
in this chapter. 

In side-gaits with horse's head bent sideways, 
he should be well gathered, bent and collected, and 
the rider must always bear in mind that the horse 
should be thus prepared before being led off on 
two paths, i.e., into the oblique position. 

There exists two distinct kinds of side-gaits, — 
the ver sings and the tr aver sings. 

* A very common occurrence with unaccomplished riders. 



— 173 — 

In versing, the horse should move by the pres- 
sure of the rider's inward leg towards the opposite 
side to which he is bent, and in such a manner, that 
the inward legs step in advance of the outward. 
According to whether the horse is bent to the same 
hand or to the opposite of the one to which the 




Fig. 50. 



rider is moving, two kinds of versing may be pro- 
duced: the versing and the contra-versing. 

Versings are practised at the walk and at the 
short trot. 

The command being : ' ' Versez — March! ' ' At the 
word Versez, collect the horse and bend him to 
the inner side; at the word March, bring the 
horse's forehand gradually in towards the interior 



/ 

— 174 — 

of the school and not more than the distance of a 
short step from the track, on which the hind feet 
should remain. When the horse has got into 
correct oblique position, i.e., the inner hind foot 
in a line with the outer hind foot and the inner 
fore foot, then the rider brings his weight outward, 
and by the aid of the inward leg and outward rein 
the horse is led off in the side-gait (Fig. 50) ; the 
rider should, without turning his head, look in the 
direction the horse advances. The outward leg 
prevents the hind legs from stepping too much to 
the side, while the inward presses the inner hind 
leg well forward; both legs keep the horse up to 
the hand. If the horse should come to a stand- 
still when the forehand is brought in from the 
track, this may be because the movement has 
been executed too abruptly, or the horse may 
have been rigid on the inner rein. In the former 
case, it should be remedied by the inward leg 
and the outward rein, while in the latter the inward 
leg and rein should be applied. If, in versing, the 
horse steps too far in from the track, i.e., the hind 
feet be moving within the track, it should be 
corrected gradually by increased use of the inward 
leg and the outward rein until the hind feet are 
replaced on the track, all the time securing the 
oblique position of the horse. 

In versing on curved lines, the effect of the 
outward leg and rein should be increased. At 
the corners, the oblique position of the horse and 
the pace should be retained; but as the croup is 
then following the wider arc, the outward rein is 



— i75 — 

applied in order to shorten the steps of the fore 
legs, while at the same time the rider's inward leg 
keeps the hind legs moving at the same length of 
step as before; by acting thus, the fore and hind 
legs will take an equal number of steps; when the 
corner is turned so far that the horse is in oblique 
position to the adjacent side of the school, a 
stronger pressure of the outward leg will bring 
him forward and inward, thereby preventing the 
haunches from coming in contact with the wall or 
from flying outside the track. 

In versing it may be useful now and then — 
especially with horses inclined to cross their 
legs over too much (swerve sideways) — to make 
the horse advance a few steps on one trace straight 
ahead in the direction indicated by his oblique 
position, this being effected by equally strong 
pressure of both legs, slight easing of the reins and 
the rider's weight evenly placed; then again, by 
applying the versing aids, the horse is gradually 
moved out until his hind feet are on the track, 
and the versing is continued as before. 

The versing influences are applied with horses 
that are inclined to press their shoulders outward 
just before a turning, as, for instance, in ''turning 
corners"; versing is also the means of preparing 
the horse for the gallop. 

When the versing is to cease and the horse 
resume his pace on one path, the word is given, 
" Forward — March!" The outward rein, assisted 
by the rider's inward leg, leads the horse's fore- 
hand gradually outward until fore and hind feet 



176 ; — 

are on the same track, observing that the horse's 
head is not drawn outward and that the inward 
leg of the rider keeps the horse's hind feet on 
the original track; the horse should then be 
unbent and, by the pressure of both legs, he 
should be made to advance at the same pace 
as previous to the versing. 

At the command, " Contraversez — March!" 
the horse is prepared in the same manner as in 
versing, only he is contra-bent* and his forehand 
is kept on the original track by the reins, while 
the rider's inward leg presses the hind quarters a 
short step in from the track, the rider's weight 
being outward. At the corners, in turns and on 
circles, the steps of the hind legs are slightly 
shortened, while those of the fore legs should be 
kept at their original length. 

When the horse is to resume his pace on one 
path, the word is given, " Forward — March! 1 '' 
The outward leg presses the hind quarters gradu- 
ally into the trace of the fore feet, otherwise the 
same as "Forward — March" in versing. 

In traversing, the horse moves towards the 
same side to which he is bent by the pressure of the 
rider's outward leg, and in such a manner that the 
outward legs step in advance of the inward and 
the outward hind foot steps on a line with the 
outward fore and inward hind foot {Fig. 51). 
According to whether the horse is bent to the 
same hand or to the opposite of the one to which 

* The reader must bear in mind that the concave side of the 
horse is always named the inward or inner and the convex 
the outward or outer. 






— 177 — 

the rider is moving, two kinds of traversing may 
be produced: traversing and renversing (i.e., 
contra-traversing) . 

Traversings are at first practised at the walk, 
later on at the short trot and the short gallop. 

As a preliminary practice in traversing, the 
rider should guide his horse on to the great circle 
and collect him; by an increased feeling of the 
outward rein and a stronger pressure of the outward 
leg, the hind feet are brought a trifle in from the 
track of the circle, .on which the fore feet should 
remain. It should be practised only a few steps 
at a time. 

On a straight line the traversing should at 
first be practised in turning diagonally across the 
school and at the command, " In tr avers, turn 
across the school — March!" The rider turns his 
horse in from the side as explained for "Turning 
diagonally across the school," but the bend of the 
horse should be retained after the turn is com- 
pleted; by an increased use of the outward leg 
and rein, the hind quarters are then brought into a 
slight travers position (the horse being at most 
parallel to the long side) and, at the same time, 
by collecting the horse the pace is reduced. The 
inward leg keeps the horse up to the hand and, 
together with the outward rein, prevents him 
from stepping sideways too much. The inward 
rein secures the bend of the head and leads the 
horse in the oblique direction. The rider's weight 
should be carried inward, and his eye directed 
at the point on the opposite long side, to which 

12 — Handbook for Riders. 



- i78- 

the horse is guided; in approaching this point at 
a distance of one horse's length, the rider's inward 
leg presses the hind quarters out on the track of 
the fore feet, the bend of the horse is then changed 
and he is led off — in the same manner as described 
Turning diagonally across the school" — 



in 




on one path out on the track by the wall, where 
the original pace is resumed. 

Riding in class, each separate rider acts as 
above explained, but at the word, March! every 
horse should be collected, consequently the pace 
is reduced and thus retained until all the riders 
have entered on the track to the other hand and are 



— 179 — 

moving at the side of the school, when the word 
is given, "Full pace!" All riders resume the 
original pace. 

Traversing at the sides of the school or on 
the great circle is performed at the command, 
"Traversez — March!''' At the word Traversez, 
the rider acts as directed for versing at the word 
Versez; at the word March, the outward rein is 
tightened, at the same time as the outward leg 
carefully presses the hind quarters a short step in 
from the track (Fig. 51), otherwise the same as 
"In travers turn across the school." 

During traversing at the sides of the school, 
the corners should first be turned like the arcs of a 
great circle, but as the rider makes progress, the 
horse should gradually be taken more into the 
corners until at last the horse's fore feet should be 
moving on the circumference of a small circle (see 
"Small Circles") , this being executed by shortening 
the steps of the hind legs by a stronger pressure 
of the inward leg, while the reins keep the fore 
legs moving at the same length of step as before 
and with the same number of steps as the hind 
legs, i.e., slight influence as if "turning on 
haunches." When the corner is turned, both 
legs press the horse's fore feet well out on the 
track, the outward leg keeping his haunches 
within. 

When the traversing is to cease, the word is 
given, "Forward — March!" The outward rein 
keeps the forehand on the track, the inward leg 
presses the hind quarters gradually out on the 



— 180 — 

track; the horse is unbent and the same pace is 
resumed as before traversing. 

The so-called long- pas sade may be mentioned 
as a very useful practise in traversing. The rider 
being on one of the long sides of the school and 
approaching the corner, the word is given, " Long- 
passade!" When the corner is turned, the horse is 
moved over a quarter of a small circle towards the 
interior of the manege and is then put in travers- 
position to the same hand and parallel to the long 
side; thus he is led off to the middle point of the 
long side which was last passed; on arriving at 
this point of the track, the horse is unbent and 
moved on to the other hand where the same 
movements should be executed on approaching 
the next corner. 

At the command, " Renversez — March!" the 
horse is contra-bent* and his forehand is brought in 
from the track by the reins, at the same time keep- 
ing the hind quarters on the track by applying the 
outward leg. When the forehand has been moved 
a short step in from the track, the rider brings his 
weight inward, and by the outward leg and the in- 
ward rein the horse is led off in the side-gait ; the 
outward rein keeps the forehand inside the track; 
the inward leg keeps the horse up to the hand, 
and, supported by the outward rein, prevents the 
horse's outward legs from stepping sideways too 
much (i.e., from crossing over the inward). 



* The reader must bear in mind that the concave side of the 
horse is always named the inward or inner and the convex 
the outward or outer. 



— 181 — 

When the renvers is to cease and the horse to 
resume his pace on one path, the word is given, 
"Forward — March!" The horse's forehand is 
brought by the reins out on the same track as 
that on which the hind feet are moving, the out- 
ward leg keeping the hind quarters on the orig- 
inal track, otherwise like "Forward — March" 
from traversing. 

The following should be observed as funda- 
mental rules for the above described side-gaits : 
i. Well-marked curving of the horse's body and 
close collection. 

2. Slight but correct bending of the head, i.e., 
the bend principally from the poll of the neck. 

3. Correct oblique position of the horse, i.e., as 
a rule not more than to make the inner 
(or outer) hind foot step in the print of the 
outer (or inner) fore foot, the fore or the 
hind feet remaining on the original track. 

4. The rider's weight carried to the same side 
as that on which one of the horse's shoulders 
is in advance. 

In order to illustrate the above mentioned 
side-gaits, the following form may prove useful: 

Ver sings. 

The horse is bent to the opposite side to the 
shoulder which is carried in advance. 

Versing {Shoulder in) . Contra-versing. 

Horse bent and shoul- Horse contra-bent and 

ders in.* hind quarters in.* 
* From the original track. 



1 82 



T raver sings. 

The horse is bent to the same side as that on 
which the shoulder is carried in advance. 

Traversing Renversing. 

{Shoulder out). Horse contra-bent and 
Horse bent and hind shoulders in.* 

quarters in * 

In passing from one side-gait to another, the 
collected pace should be retained and the change 
may be executed, either by forehand and hind 
quarters changing track, or by only changing the 
bend of the horse, or even by both ways together, 
as for instance: 

From versing to traversing. The horse's fore- 
hand is first brought out on the track by the 
outward rein and the inward leg, then the hind 
quarters are brought into travers-position. 

From traversing to versing. The horse is 
pressed forward, and inward, by the inward leg on 
a wide arc until his hind feet are on the original 
track, when the forehand is brought into versing- 
position. 

From versing to renversing. The bend of the 
horse is changed. 

From traversing to renversing. The hind feet 
are first brought out on the same track on which 
the fore feet are moving, the bend of the horse is 
then changed, and the forehand is brought into 
renvers-position . 

*From the original track. 



- i8 3 - 

Similar combinations might be mentioned, 
but they may be all easily understood from what 
has been previously explained. 

The greatest advantages are attained from 
"the side-gaits at the trot,'" and the rider who can 
execute them correctly is, with regard to the 
management of his horse, all right. 
\..'A Closing travers, sometimes miscalled the pas- 
sage, is a side-gait, in which the horse, without 
being collected, but bent as to travers, moves 
sideways parallel to his original position and in a 
manner that his outward legs step across and past 
his inward. Closing travers should only be prac- 
tised at the walk* and a few steps at a time. This 
side-gait is used when the rider wants to move his 
horse from the stand a few steps to one side (see 
page 128). Closing travers is practised in such a 
way that the rider, during traversing, by stronger 
outward rein and leg makes the horse move his 
haunches more sideways, i.e., he is brought into an 
accentuated travers-position; at first the shoulders 
should slightly precede the haunches; the rider's 
inward leg should be kept close to the horse's 
side, in order to prevent him from stepping too 
quickly to the side and thereby also preventing 
the haunches from preceding the shoulders. The 
rider must not move his seat too much inward, as 
that easily causes his body to lean outward. 

When the closing travers is to cease, the out- 
ward rein and the inward leg are used, while the 
rider's weight is brought even on the horse's back. 

* In High-School, also at the gallop. 



— 184 — 

Turning on Haunches. 

Turning the horse on his haunches may be 
executed at the stand as well as in motion, the 
horse, with one hind leg as centre of rotation, 
circling the three other legs around. These turns 
are first practised at the stand and, as turnings 
on the forehand, only one step at a time with halt 
between each step. Turning on haunches must 
never commence with backing, but rather with an 
inclination to advance. While in motion, the 
turns should at first be made at the same pace in 
which the horse is moving; later on more quickly; 
when finally the horse — as it is called — is whirled 
about. The object of the turn decides its circum- 
ference. Turning on haunches should be prac- 
tised about the same time as "Turning on Fore- 
hand with Horse's Head Bent Sideways" is com- 
menced, although it can not be accomplished 
satisfactorily until after the practising of 
travers has been carried out. 

During practical riding* and as means of 
making narrow turnings, the turns on haunches 
should be mostly used, because they are as easily 
performed at the stand as in motion; they may 
be done slowly or quickly, and — what is of no less 
importance — they transfer the work of the horse 
and the weight of horse and rider to the hind quarters 
of the horse by the extreme collection which they 
require. Only with horses that have very weak 



*We may say that riding consists of school-riding and practical 
riding; the latter being the application of the experience 
acquired in school. 



- i8s- 

hind quarters, and where the circumstances do not 
justify turning on haunches — for instance when 
there is an obstacle just in the rear of the horse — 
then turning on forehand should be used. 

At the stand* As useful practice in turning 
on haunches a turn about (J circle) should be made 
in 6 steps on the command, li On haunches, right 
(or left) about — March!" At the words On 
haunches right (or left) about, the horse is collected 
and bent to the right (or left). At the word 
March, the horse is pressed as if to advance, then 
the forehand is circled round by the inward rein 
and by the rider's weight carried well inward and 
backward; the outward leg and rein preventing 
the haunches from flying out. The outward leg 
and rein should be applied chiefly at the last part 
of the turn, as the haunches are then most liable 
to fly out; the inward leg prevents the haunches 
from pressing inward and the horse from backing; 
the outward rein regulates the quickness of the 
turn and halts it. 

It is advisable, at first, to let the hind quarters 
participate slightly in the turn, i.e., the hind feet 
should be moving on a narrower circle than that on 
which the fore feet are moving, and this is what 
is called a tr avers -circle. 

In motion. When the horse is well collected 
and bent to the side to which he should turn, a 
momentary halt is made on his inner hind leg by a 
short taking on the outward rein; while keeping 
the inner hind leg in place, the other three legs 

* Should at first be practised on the track (by the wall). 



— 1 86 — 

are circling round at the original pace (or at an 
increased pace) ; the same aids and rules are used 
as "at the stand." When the turn is completed, 
the pace should be continued in the new direction 
and without interruption. 

Turning on haunches while in motion may be 
practised at the walk, the collected trot, and the 
collected gallop. 



Diminishing and Resuming the Great Circle. 

In diminishing the great circle, the horse is 
caused to leave the circumference and move inward 
on a spiral towards the centre. In resuming the 
great circle, the horse is caused to move in a similar 
manner outward from the centre until resuming 
the track of the great circle. As a rule, the great 
circle should not be diminished further than to 
bring the horse in on a circle, concentrical with 
the great circle and of the diameter of two horse's 
length; the paces to be ridden on such a small 
circle being only the walk, the short trot and the 
short gallop. These practices, which can only be 
executed correctly after the teaching of side-gaits, 
will make clear to the rider how he should act in 
preventing his horse from pressing outward or 
inward during turnings. At the command, "Dim- 
inish the circle — March!" the horse is gradually 
brought in on the smaller circle by increased use 
of the outward leg and inward rein and by the 
rider's weight carried more inward. The inward 
leg keeps up the pace and prevents the hind 



- i8 7 - 

quarters from getting in travers-position, the 
same leg keeps the horse's body curved to the 
inner side and makes him light on the inner rein; 
the outward rein prevents the shoulders from 
preceding the haunches or in other words — 
prevents the horse from taking versing-position. 

When riding in class with 4 steps' distance 
between the riders, the great circle should be 
diminished by all riders at the same time and 
until each following rider is 1 step's distance from 
the one in front. When the class is riding with 
1 step's distance between the riders, the same 
distance should be retained in such a way that 
each following rider commences to diminish the 
circle at the same place as did the leading rider, 
who commences at the word March. 

When the horse is to resume his place on the 
track of the great circle, the word is given, "En- 
large the circle — March!" Continually keeping the 
horse bent to the inner side, he is gradually 
brought outward until he resumes the track of the 
great circle, this being effected by a stronger use 
of the inward leg and outward rein, the rider's 
weight carried outward. 

When riding in class, and the great circle 
having been diminished while riding at a distance 
of 4 steps, the same distance should gradually be 
resumed by all the riders moving their horses 
outward at the same time; but if the great circle 
has been diminished while riding at a distance 
of 1 step, this distance should be retained during 
the enlargement of the circle, by the leading rider 



— 188 — 

commencing the movement, and the others follow- 
ing precisely in his track. 

In order to teach the horse and the rider to 
observe the influences of legs, reins and weight more 
accurately, diminishing and enlarging the circle may 
be executed with the horse at one or another of the 
side-gaits; for instance, the great circle may be 
diminished at the travers until the hind feet have 
reached the centre, where a turn about on haunches 
maybe executed, the bend of the horse changed and, 
without interruption, he may be moved outward 
in travers-position to the other hand. In versing- 
position the great circle may be diminished until 
the horse's fore feet are on the centre, where a 
turn about on forehand may be executed, the 
bend changed and the horse moved outward in 
versing-position to the other hand. 



Small Circles. 

A small circle of the diameter of 2 horse's 
length is made from the side of the school at the 
command, "Circle — March!" and is ridden towards 
the interior of the manege; the circle is discon- 
tinued, when the horse has reached the place 
where the circling began. When the side-gaits and 
diminishing and resuming of the great circle have 
been taught, the small circles are practised; they 
are executed by the same means as the great 
circle, but, naturally, with more marked bending 
of the horse and increased aids in circling; when 
the circle is completed, i.e., when the horse 



— 189 — 

returns to the spot at which the movement began, 
he should then be unbent and led off at an un- 
changed pace and in the same direction as before 
the circling began. Small circles may also be 
made from the track of the great circle and from 
the middle line of the school; they should only 
be ridden at the walk, the short trot and the 
short gallop. 

When riding in class, it should be strictly 
observed that all riders make circles of equal size, 
which may be ensured by each individual rider 
observing the dressing, which should be taken 
up to the side to which the rider can see without 
turning his head, i.e., when moving on the first 
quarter of the circle to the leading rider, when on 
the next two quarters to the rear rider, and finally 
again to the leading rider when on the last quarter. 

On the first quarter of the circle the horse is 
inclined to turn too abruptly, which should be 
prevented by the outward rein and inward leg. 
At the next two quarters he will generally not 
turn sufficiently, which may be remedied by the 
inward rein and outward leg. At the last quarter 
of the circle, the horse is inclined to press inward 
and take the shortest cut towards the point where 
the circling began, and even go past it; this 
should be prevented by a stronger use of the 
inward leg, which also keeps up the pace, which 
then generally becomes sluggish. 

When, in riding on a small circle, the horse 
is to be changed to the other hand, the word, 
"Change!" is given. After completing a semi- 



— 190 — 

circle and arriving at an oblique position (see page 
166, Fig. 49) to the original track, the horse is 
led off on a straight line by the outward rein, the 
inward leg, and the rider's weight carried evenly ; 
the bend of the horse is then changed, and he is 
turned to the other hand out on the original track, 
unbent and moved on at an unchanged pace in 
the other direction. 

While small circles are of little or no use in 
practical riding, the semi-circle may frequently 
be made use of. In the school, the semi-circle 
is practised at the command, " Semi-circle — 
March!''' and is performed by the rules for small 
circles, but when the semi-circle is completed, the 
horse should be led off on a straight line, parallel 
to the side of the school from where the semi- 
circle began and, when arriving at the side in 
front of him, the rider turns his horse to the same 
hand to which the semi-circle had been made and 
continues along the track by the wall. 

If a semi-circle be made on the track of the 
great circle, the horse should, after finishing the 
semi-circle, be changed and led off to the other 
hand on a circle concentrical with the great circle 
and at a distance of two horses' length from its 
circumference, i.e., on a diminished great circle 
to the other hand, from where he may again be 
brought out on the track of the great circle to the 
original hand at the command, "Right (or Left) 
semi-circle — March!" the same command being 
used when a semi-circle is made from the middle- 
line of the school (see page 128). 



— 191 — 

The Gallop. 

The practical use of the gallop (see pages 115, 
120 and 121) is to improve the rider's seat, to 
collect the horse, to make him advance more 
rapidly, and to prepare him for obstacle-riding. 

When the rider can work his horse fairly 
well in the side-gaits at a trot, the gallop may be 
commenced. 

In galloping, the rider must not allow himself 
to be thrown up and down, but his seat should be 
gliding imperceptibly with the motions of the 
animal, without causing his body to sway to and 
fro. In order to preserve a steady seat at the 
gallop, a straight but unrestrained position of the 
body and a correct position of hips and thighs 
(see pages 91 and 92) are essential. 

In order that the rider may know, without 
looking down at the horse's fore legs, whether his 
horse is galloping on the right foot or on the left, 
he should pay special attention to the different 
motions he feels, and which are caused by the 
two kinds of gallop. When the horse strikes off 
correctly, i.e., in the gallop, for which he has 
been prepared, the rider's outward seatbone chiefly 
is rubbed against the saddle, his seat is apt to 
slide outward and his inner leg to move upward 
and forward at each new gallop-stride. In order 
to prevent any such faults in the rider's position, 
he should bring his weight well inward and back- 
ward, while pressing his inward shoulder, hip, 
knee and heel downward and backward. 



— 192 — 

Cross-gallop (see page 121) causes a singular 
wriggling sensation in the rider's seat, which, 
when once experienced, is not easily mistaken. 

At first the gallop should be executed on the 
great circle and from a short and collected trot, 
when a firm feeling of both reins, especially the 
outward (without drawing the horse's head out- 
ward),^ the direction of the rider's outward hip, 
will cause the horse's outward shoulder to be 
somewhat kept back, while at the same time a 
collecting influence of both legs, especially the 
outward, will make the horse bring his weight 
over on his haunches (outward hind leg) ; then a 
stronger and short pressure of the inward leg will 
seldom fail to make the horse lead with his inward 
leg; the rider's weight being then mostly on the 
inward hind leg. In this manner, the horse being 
collected by degrees until he can no longer trot, he 
is forced to raise his forehand as if to a leap, i.e., 
to strike off in a gallop; the reins are then eased 
sufficiently to enable the horse to complete the 
leap by the spring of his haunches, when a con- 
tinued light feeling of the reins and pressure of the 
legs should keep up an even succession of leaps, 
which means a cadenced pace. The outward leg 
and rein prevent the horse's haunches from being 
thrown out, as otherwise his outward shoulder 
might get in advance, and he would strike off in a 
wrong gallop ; the inward leg prevents the haunches 
from being thrown more in than to allow the 
outward hind foot to follow the prints of the 
inward fore foot. When the horse is confirmed 



— 193 — 

in the short collected gallop, the hind feet should 
follow the track of the fore, thereby causing the 
animal least strain. If a horse strikes off in a 
wrong gallop, he should be pulled up and again 
brought to the trot (see pages 134 and 135), when 
the aids for the correct gallop should be repeated. 
If the horse goes into a cross-gallop, he should be 
brought to the trot, if he gallop false on the hind 
feet; but if he gallop false on the fore feet, he may 
be pressed well forward at the gallop (by pressures 
of the inward leg), when, as a rule, the fore legs 
will change. 

If a horse, in galloping, breaks into a trot, the 
rider must not be in too great a hurry to try and 
resume the gallop, as it will generally result in 
the animal being chased into a hurried and, most 
frequently, wrong gallop. By keeping up a quiet 
trot and gradually collecting the horse, as if it 
did not concern the rider whether the animal 
trotted or galloped, the fault will be soon remedied, 
and replaced by a quiet and correct gallop. 

If a horse, in galloping, dashes along too 
fiercely, avoids being collected, stretches his neck 
and head forward, leans on the rider's hand and is 
inclined to rush into a hurried trot, then half- 
halts with raising tensions upon the reins and a 
moderate pressure of the legs are applied; this 
being of no use, a complete halt is made and, if 
needed, the horse should be backed until he 
yields to the hand, when his balance is re-estab- 
lished by bending and collecting at the stand. 

13 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 194 — 

This being completed, he is made to advance and 
once more prepared for the gallop. 

Horses that are apt to move at the "half- 
gallop" (see page 121) are put into a trot, and by- 
strong aid of the legs the haunches are brought 
more under, while slight takings on the reins are 
applied in order to prevent the fore legs from 
galloping before the balance of the horse is re- 
established. 

The gallop should not be practised at too slow 
a pace in the early lessons. An easy gallop without" 
any tendency to rushing will prove to be of greatest 
advantage to the beginner in riding, and also in 
the breaking of horses. 

To pass from the gallop to the trot, apply a 
short feeling of the outward rein, while, at the 
same time, discontinuing the aid of the legs for 
galloping. As soon as the horse trots, he is forced 
to the bit by the pressure of both legs, especially 
the inward. Having gone through the above 
described lessons, frequent varying of trot and 
gallop should be practised on the great circle and 
to both hands and, when sufficient skill has been 
attained, the horse should be led off at the gallop 
from the great circle on to a straight line at the 
command, "Straight on — March!" In order that 
the gallop may not be deranged or come to a trot, 
care should be taken in using the reins at the 
moment the horse is led off on the track by the 
side of the school, the rider's weight and inward 
leg being the principal aids. In turning diagonally 
across the school at the gallop, when within 3 or 



— 195 — 

4 horse's length of the opposite side of the school, 
the horse should be brought to the trot, the bend 
changed, and, when his fore feet arrive on the 
track by the long side, the gallop should be resumed 
to the other hand. 

The gallop is then gradually collected and 
shortened, this practice being at first executed on 
the great circle and by simultaneous use of reins 
and legs at the moment the inner fore foot is 
planted; as soon as the horse's forehand is raised 
to the next gallop-stride, the reins are eased a 
little, when a repeated use of reins and legs will 
bring the haunches under and raise the forehand to 
the succeeding shortened gallop-stride, and so 
forth. 

When, through the previous lessons on the 
great circle, the rider has been taught with ease 
and certainty to pass from the short collected 
trot to the short collected gallop, the same is 
practised on straight lines by bending the horse 
according to the gallop that should be performed; 
for instance, the horse being on the long side of 
the school and moving to the right hand at the 
trot, he should be made to gallop on the right foot, 
but, before arriving at the next corner, he is brought 
to the trot (which should be short and collected) ; 
when arrived on the other long side, the bend of 
the horse is changed and he is made to gallop on 
the left foot, and so forth, always bringing the 
horse to the trot upon approaching the corners. 
When the rider has been sufficiently prepared by 
this practice, the gallop may be changed more 



— 196 — 

frequently by shorter intervals of trot, but still 
always on the long sides. 

To pass from the collected gallop to the walk, 
the word is given : ' ' Walk — March! ' ' By applying 
half -halts, the horse is brought to a closer form 
of collection, and, the moment his weight is carried 
mostly on his hind quarters, i.e., when the forehand 
is raised, the rider may bring him to a momentary 
halt by leaning back and by using a light and 
short tension upon the reins, but at the very 
moment the horse's fore feet are brought to the 
ground, he must be made to advance at the walk 
by the pressure of both legs. 

To pass from the walk to the collected gallop, 
the word is given, "Short gallop — March!" This 
practice should be executed first on the great 
circle, when at the command Short gallop, the 
horse is collected. At the command March, he 
should be pressed into the gallop by a somewhat 
stronger aid of the legs than in passing from the 
trot to the gallop. Being on the side of the school 
and receiving the word Short gallop, the horse 
should, besides being collected, be bent to the 
inward side. 

To take the collected gallop at the stand, the 
horse is bent for the gallop that he is intended to 
take, and is so closely collected that the forehand 
is raised a trifle from the ground, when a slight 
easing of the reins and increased pressure of the 
legs will make him throw his forehand forward 
into the gallop-stride. As a rule, the horse should 



— 197 — 

first be led off one step at the walk, before striking 
off into the gallop. 

To halt from the collected gallop is executed in 
a similar manner to passing from the collected 
gallop to the walk; but at the moment the horse's 
fore feet are brought to the ground, instead of 
making him advance, the rider's legs should only 
be applied sufficiently to prevent the hind legs 
from stepping back, while the tension upon the 
reins should not be released more than to make 
the horse take the position of balance at the 
stand. 

To pass from one gallop to another, i.e., changing 
the lead should, as previously described, first be 
executed by an interval of trotting steps* during 
which the horse should be kept closely collected 
and his bend changed for the new gallop. As the 
rider makes progress, these trotting steps are 
gradually reduced until one such step proves 
sufficient — thus preparing the horse for the imme- 
diate change, i.e., changing a tempo, when the 
change is completed in a gallop-stride without 
breaking the cadence. In the last gallop-strides, 
before changing a tempo, the horse must be closely 
collected, but gradually; the bend of the horse 
should be diminished by degrees in order to facili- 
tate the changing of the bend, and as the horse 
raises the forehand to the last stride before the 
change (brings his inner hind leg under him) the rider 
applies a light half-halt, and, when the horse's 
inner fore foot is planted, his bend is changed and 

* May also be done at the walk. 



— 198 — 

the rider's weight brought quickly over on the 
new inner hind leg, the aids for the new gallop 
being then applied and the gallop-change will 
ensue as the next stride begins. While changing 
the bend of the horse, the outward rein (which 
will be the new inward) works with a short tension, 
the inward rein (which will be the new outward) 
works with a more passive tension ; the new inward 
leg works with a short, easy pressure, the new 
outward should not be thrust into the side of the 
animal but slide' with even pressure to its new 
place. 

To pass from the collected to the extended gallop, 
the pace is gradually increased by stronger pressure 
of the legs, especially the inward, and by releasing 
the tension upon the reins, thereby giving more 
freedom to neck and head but still keeping the 
horse up to the bit. The bend of the horse should 
be diminished, and he should not be so closely 
collected as in the short gallop. 

Unless the ground be in very good condition, 
the extended gallop cannot be practised safely 
with extreme rapidity in the riding-school. 

To pass from the extended gallop to the walk 
should not be done abruptly, as it would cause 
too much strain on the legs of the horse, and for 
this reason the gallop should be shortened by 
degrees, then changed into the trot before passing 
into the walk. 

When the previously described practices in 
the gallop can be accomplished with certainty, 
the rider may be exercised at the gallop in dimin- 



— i 9 9 — 

ishing and resuming the great circle, change in 
crossing the great circle, turnings across the school 
and in riding on small circles; finally precision 
in turning the corners should be demanded. * An 
increased use of the outward rein and the inward 
leg, at the same time securing the bend, are the 
means of taking the horse into the corners. 

Supposing a horse, in moving to the right (or 
left) around the school, be ridden in the gallop left 
(or right) , it is called contra- gallop. As, in galloping 
on straight lines, it is immaterial whether the 
horse be in gallop right or in gallop left, the term, 
contra-gallop, can, in practical riding, only be 
used when galloping on curved lines. In practising 
the contra-gallop, the balance of the horse will be 
improved and it will teach him to turn to the 
right (or left) when in gallop left (or right) , and to 
do it with ease and safety, i.e., without losing his 
bearing and without any disturbance of his pace; 
it teaches the rider, furthermore, to accommodate 
himself to the motions of the horse, and to apply 
the aids in harmony with the actions of the horse. 

Contra-gallop demands a closer form of 
collection than the ordinary gallop, and it requires 
also a great deal of suppleness on the part of the 
horse, especially in short turns, as he is turned to 
the opposite side to that to which he is bent. In 
the turns, the inward leg and the outward rein 
should be active and well timed; the horse should 



* In the earlier lessons, while practising the gallop, the corners 
should be well rounded, otherwise the pace is apt to become 
hurried. 



— 200 — 

be prevented from throwing his haunches to the 
gallop-side by applying the aids as if bringing the 
horse forward and outward on the curve. 

At first the contra-gallop should be taught in 
the following manner: the horse being in gallop 
right, and moving to the right on the long side of 
the school, a half turn is made from the side; on 
arriving at the opposite long side the same gallop 
should be continued in moving to the left, the 
forehand being kept slightly within the track by 
the inward leg and outward rein.* Before turning 
the corner, the horse should be brought to the 
trot or the gallop may be changed ; but with some 
practice in preserving the gallop unchanged in 
passing over to the other hand, the horse should 
also be ridden in the contra-gallop at the corners. 

Turning on haunches at the gallop is practised 
in the easiest manner by executing the previously 
explained long-passade (see page 180), the horse 
being then kept in a marked travers-position during 
the turning in from the corner. By gradually 
diminishing the circle, the horse may finally, with 
his inner hind leg remaining on the spot, be 
wheeled round in the gallop at the moment his 
forehand is raised from the ground; but it is 
necessary that the gallop be ridden very short, 
and that the horse be closely collected. When the 
turn is completed, the lead of the gallop may either 
be changed or the horse may be made to advance 
in the same gallop as before the turn (i.e., in renvers- 
gallop), in the latter case the turn should cease as 

*The concave side of the horse being the inward. 



— 201 — 

the horse comes into renvers-position to the other 
hand; but in either case the gallop should be 
continued without any interruption. 

The passade is a half turn on haunches at the 
gallop (so-called half pirouette) and with an 
immediate change of lead (a tempo) when the 
turn is completed. This practice should be pre- 
pared for by first riding a small circle with the 
horse in tr avers- position at the gallop, and Change! 



Obstacle Riding. 

The means and the manner in which to pass 
any obstacle presenting itself to the rider, when 
practising outdoor riding, should in some measure 
be known to every rider and be taught to all kinds 
of riding horses, thereby preventing a pleasant ride 
from coming to an abrupt ending; it is not neces- 
sary, however, to be able .to jump an obstacle 7 
feet high. 

Besides teaching the rider how to keep going 
with his horse wherever there is a chance, obstacle 
riding is also the means of still further securing the 
rider's seat and balance at unexpected plunges and 
movements of the horse, as for instance, bucking, 
uncontrollable lancades, rearing, kicking, etc. 

Obstacle riding should commence at an early 
stage of the riding lessons, but not until the rider 
has got a safe and fairly correct seat at the trot. 
In the riding-school it must be restricted to high 
and broad jumps, but later, during outdoor riding, 
it should be made to include obstacles of every kind. 



202 

The first condition, necessary for passing an 
obstacle, is that the rider will get over, i.e., he must 
not in the least doubt that he will succeed, as his 
doubt will invariably be transmitted to the animal, 
and the outcome may then be easily guessed. 
Naturally , the horse must not be put to anything 
that neither he nor his rider can manage ; rashness 
is in most cases as objectionable as want of 
pluck. 

Obstacle riding may be practised at every 
pace, which, however, should be adapted to the 
nature of the obstacle; at the gallop at full speed, 
the horse should be taken in and collected before 
he is made to jump. 

To leap at the stand (the standing jump) should 
not be made unless existing circumstances demand 
it, as it is disagreeable to the rider and injurious to 
the horse, that is, if the obstacle be of any con- 
siderable size. 

If the obstacle is taken at a leap, the horse 
moves his legs much the same as at the carriere, 
the leap being commenced by a simultaneous rais- 
ing of both fore legs and jointly taking off with both 
hind legs; as the horse is grounding, he throws 
himself forward on the far extended fore legs and 
brings the well -bent hind legs far forward, by 
which all four legs may be planted almost at the 
same time, which is most agreeable to the rider 
and causes the least strain to the animal's legs. 

The rider should, as a rule, not influence the 
horse too much when just in front of an obstacle, 
leaving the choice of manner in which to take it 



— 203 — 

almost entirely to the animal ; but in most cases the 
horse should be somewhat collected when at a few 
horse's lengths from the obstacle. In passing the 
obstacle, the rider should be as passive as possible, 
keeping the upper part of his body, his shoulders 
and head well back, his arms to his sides and his 
legs close to the sides of the horse. Tugging on the 
reins, standing in the stirrups and raising the seat 



~"7T1 




Fig. 52. THE VERTICAL SEAT.- 

may prove fatal to the horse as well as to the rider, 
as in acting thus the horse is easily prevented from 
clearing the obstacle, or his forehand is too much 
loaded and the rider unable to sustain the horse 
with reins and legs as he grounds ; the consequence 
being that the horse either falls with the rider or 



— 204 — 

that the latter gets injured in some other way. In 
grounding the rider must, therefore, keep his body 
erect and support the horse with legs and reins 
without checking him violently. 

As a matter of fact, there are permissible 
variations of the jumping seat, according to the 
nature of the obstacle and the ground, the rider's 




Fig. 53. THE LIGHT SEAT. 
Also Illustrating One of the Three Phases oj the Vertical Seat. \ 

skill, or the structure of the horse and also the 
speed. Any devil-may-care sort of a rider can dash 
at an obstacle, regardless of his own and the 
animal's balance, leaving the outcome to good 
luck; but this is not correct horsemanship, for, if 



— 205 — 

the horse should happen to make a mistake in the 
jump, the rider must be prepared and know how to 
correct it in the best possible way, and keep a cool 
head. 







**^!!!!Waffi89b 




Fig. 54. AN EXTREMELY LIGHT SEAT. 

The Obstacle Being Very High {the Boards, Five Feet, with 
Brush), and the Horse Taking Off Far from the Fence. 

During the leap the vertical, the light or the 
deep seat may be used. 

The vertical seat is mostly used and it is the 
safest on unknown ground (Fig. 52). 

The light seat (Fig. 53) differs from the vertical 



— 206 — 

one by being raised just sufficiently to clear the 
saddle; the seat should be moved well forward 
under the rider, the body slightly forward; the 
weight of the rider distributed on thighs, knees and 
stirrups. This seat is used with horses that have 
weak back and hind quarters, with horses during 




Fig. 55. THE DEEP SEAT. 
Also Illustrating One of the Three Phases of the Vertical Seat. 



the first breaking and in very high jumping in order 
that the hind legs in the downward leap may not be 
caught, but be set free to place themselves forward 
and under the horse. When the horse takes off too 
far from the obstacle (Fig. 54), jumps from the spot 
or leaps upward, this seat is also practicable. 



— 207 — 

The deep seat {Fig. 55) is used with horses that 
need to be urged towards the obstacle, or that, in 
the downward leap, hold their hind quarters very 
high or that are apt to stumble. For leaping in the 
depth this seat should also be used, besides that, it 
should, as a rule, be applied by ladies when riding 
in side saddle (Fig. 61, page 294). 

The vertical seat must by thorough-going 
practice be confirmed before the rider is taught to 
adopt the light seat. 

When passing obstacles, the reins should, as a 
rule, he beld in both hands. 

The rider should not look down on the obstacle, 
but straight ahead past it. ■ 

If a fall be unavoidable and the rider has done 
all he can (in a correct way) to avoid it, and there 
comes a moment (but mind, there is only this one 
moment at his disposal) when he feels that all 
further attempts are unavailing and that he has to 
look out for his own safety — then he must be quick 
in making every joint in his body pliant, in releas- 
ing his feet from the stirrups and his legs from the 
sides of the animal; furthermore, he should lower 
his head, curve his back and draw his knees up 
towards his chin, not warding off the fall with out- 
stretched arms — a somersault or two may then be 
the only consequence. The rider should try to 
keep the reins. 

I have experienced this myself, as once in an 
Officers' steeplechase my horse, after passing over 
a fence, slid in a pool of water (it had been raining) 



— 208 — 

and — all my efforts to keep him on his legs being in 
vain — finally fell, sending me in a somersault over 
his neck, landing on my feet just in front of the 
fallen horse and facing the same way I had been 
riding. I was none the worse but for a broken spur. 
The horse got a yawning wound in the fleshy part 
of his chest from the immense pressure of this part 
scraping against the ground, as I was trying to 
raise the drooping forehand or to prevent the 
animal from turning a somersault. 

On the other hand, in "losing the right mo- 
ment" or "not feeling the approach of it" (for 
there is very little time for thought) and thus trying 
to mend what an able rider should feel to be irre- 
parable, the consequence is more likely to become 
fatal, as the rider, in his efforts to restore the lost 
balance to the animal, keeps his body and limbs 
too long in their supporting position and in apply- 
ing the aids. When thus the erect rider receives the 
sudden concussion from the animal's fall on the 
ground, he will generally be sent forward, landing 
with his face downwards; then, if the speed of the 
animal has been considerable, the rider's body may 
continue the somersault-like movement and, if 
unlucky, he may injure his spine or even break his 
neck "in the reverse way." 

If the horse rushes heedlessly at the obstacle, 
without the rider being able to prevent it, he 
should be given the reins in order that he may look 
before him and his attention to the obstacle not be 
diverted by the rider's influences, otherwise a wrong 
leap may easily ensue. 



— 209 — 

When the horse jumps in proper style with 
elastic action of the back, he strains himself and the 
rider least; on the contrary, if the horse jumps with 
sunken back, high neck and the nose upward, the 
jump will become uncertain, his legs and back will 
be strained and an unpleasant and hard thump will 
be inflicted upon the rider at the grounding. 

In a correctly executed leap, the horse "floats" 
over the obstacle, the back of the horse is percep- 
tibly arched up into the rider's crotch, and after 
the downward leap the horse will continue the 
gallop without delay. 

A properly ridden horse, trying to turn aside 
in front of the obstacle or refusing "to take it," 
should always be turned back towards the obstacle 
from that side to which he tries to turn; if merely 
refusing, he should be placed at a right angle to 
the obstacle and backed, then again urged forward. 

A well broken and well ridden horse should 
invariably clear the obstacle without any mistake 
in front. 

The horse will soon learn to estimate the 
size of the obstacle and not to take a longer run 
than needed before leaping, and when he has 
attained these abilities he may be considered safe 
and certain in clearing obstacles; but, in order 
that he may acquire such accomplishments, he 
should at first be led and ridden at the various 
paces over a bar lying on the ground, till he goes 
willingly. By degrees the bar should be raised 
and the same method repeated, until the horse 
can no longer walk and trot over it, but must take 

14 — Handbook for Riders. 



2IO 



it with a leap, after which he is only ridden to 
obstacles. 




Fig. 56. 

It is advisable to give the early lessons on 
the longe. 

The best results are attained by going slowly 
to work, until the rider has gained confidence. 
Beginners, being apt to sustain themselves by 
the reins, should be allowed to take hold by the 
mane or, where no mane is, by the head of the 



211 

saddle without leaning forward (Fig. 56) , the reins 
to be placed on the horse's neck; gradually the 
rider loosens his grip and, finally, he lets his 
arms hang straight down, or places his hands on 
his hips. This mode of proceeding will prove the 
surest way to impart a safe seat and a correct 
position, and also in preventing the horse from 
making any misstep. For this purpose, a steady 
and quiet school-horse is required, and at first he 
should be led up to the obstacle or held on the 
longe. 



are: 



The commonest faults during obstacle riding 

1. In facing the obstacle, the horse does not 
go straight at it, 

2. taking the obstacle too violently or insuffi- 
ciently, 

3. the grounding does not occur with fore and 
hind feet about at the same time, and 

4. after the grounding the pace and the direc- 
tion are not kept the same as they were in 
facing the obstacle; 

for these reasons : 

1. The horse should be kept at an unchanged 
pace (adapted to the size of the obstacle) 
and straight for the obstacle, 

2. be collected in front of it, 

3. be given his head sufficiently to enable him 
to estimate the size of the obstacle, and in 
order not to prevent him from raising the 
forehand, 



— 212 — 

4. be sustained by the leaning back of the 
rider's body and by reins and legs in securing 
a correct landing, and finally, 

5. be given the reins and aided by the legs 
sufficiently to continue at the same pace 
and in the same direction as before leaping. 

In order that the rider may learn to take 
such measures, the placing of the obstacle should 
at first be chosen in a way that the practice may 
be executed on a straight and not too short 
line. 

To leap the bar, some round poles,' about 5 
yards long, are used, and one or two of them 
should be wound around with a straw-rope or 
covered with canvas stuffed with some soft 
material in order to prevent injuries to the horse's 
legs, should he knock against them. At first a 
bar is placed on the ground, across the track at the 
middle of one of the long sides of the school, and 
passed over, as previously explained. The most 
practical method of raising the bars is to provide 
them with an iron peg at one end, having iron-clad 
holes at certain intervals in the wall for putting 
in the pegs; the other end of the bar should then 
be placed on removable slots that are put into 
the holes of a removable upright, placed on the 
ground at a distance answering to the length of 
the bars, the covered bars always being placed at 
the top and level. For high jumps, a contrivance, 
made of two boards nailed together so as to leave 
a narrow space between them for the placing of 
twigs, may also be used, the ends of the boards 



— 213 — 

being put on two uprights like the one previously 
described. 

In the riding-school, broad jumps are not 
easily arranged, ditches being most suitable for 
the purpose. A broad piece of canvas, painted 
the colour of water, and at each end fastened to 
a tick roller, may, in some way, replace the want 
of ditches; so may also a hurdle laid flat on the 
ground. 

At broad jumps, the horse is generally allowed 
to take a freer run than in high jump, and for that 
reason he is not collected so closely as in the 
latter. 

A double obstacle means two obstacles placed 
so close to each other that there is no more space 
between them than for the first downward leap 
and for taking off to the next leap. 

Compound obstacles are broad and high 
obstacles combined, where the latter may either 
be placed in front of or behind the former. 

In England, where such obstacles in the 
shape of a bank with a ditch on either side are 
frequently met with, the horses show wonderful 
cleverness in jumping upward over the first 
ditch and by "topping" the bank with their hind 
feet, in order to bring themselves forward over 
the next ditch. 

Obstacles of obedience are those that yield abso- 
lute obedience to the rider; they are made short, of 
no considerable height and of an appearance that 
makes the horse suspicious; for instance, benches, 
wooden boxes, tables, chairs, etc., which, in addi- 



— 214 — 

tion, may be made more obvious by covering them 
with rugs of conspicuous colours, newspapers, or 
anything of the kind that might arouse the animal's 
suspicion. 

To such obstacles the horse should be ridden 
at the collected walk, trot or gallop, and he should 
not be let out before at the last moment when he 
tends to take off. 

Naturally the gallop, being the most advan- 
tageous gait for jumping, should always be used at 
obstacles of any considerable size. 

In the riding-school jumping should invariably 
be practised to both hands and in gallop right and 
left; thus, for example, it may be executed on 
straight lines by the leaps being taken alternately 
in gallop right and left, or, having finished once 
around to one hand, the same being executed to 
the other hand, the gallop to be changed from what 
it was at the first round. ■ 

It has been said elsewhere in this chapter that 
the pace should be the same before as after the leap 
has been accomplished; if, for example, the horse 
takes off from gallop right he should normally land 
first with his left fore foot, quickly followed by the 
right fore, the latter generally being placed some- 
what in advance of the former, the rider thus secur- 
ing the gallop right to be continued (Fig. 55). 



Rising to the Trot, 

This manner of trotting tends to spare both the 
horse and the rider, as the latter only alights on the 



— 215 — 

saddle at every other step. This method of trotting 
should be used in outdoor riding, but in the riding- 
school only during the practising of it; and with 
horses that have a weak back. Even persons in 
delicate health may benefit by riding when using 
this mode of trotting. 

In rising to the trot the rider remains, as it 
were, floating over the horse's back, as at every 
other step he rises and during the intermediate 
step keeps himself aloft, and, at the planting of the 
same pair of diagonal legs on which he first rose, 
he alights pliantly in the saddle, just touching it 
and immediately again rising from it. 

When the practises previously explained are 
gone through, and the pupil has acquired the accom- 
plishment of lithely and pliantly yielding to the 
motions of the horse at the trot and the gallop, 
rising to the trot may be practised. It is advisable 
first to execute the raising movement at the walk, 
as the rider at the planting of one fore leg* rises 
slowly by slightly closing his thighs and knees and 
by a trifling support of the stirrups; by a springy 
resistance of knees and ankles the rider remains 
aloft during the following step and then descends 
lithely upon the saddle and rising again at the next 
planting of the mentioned fore leg. At the trot the 
raising movement of the rider commences simul- 
taneously with the stepping forward of two diagonal 
legs and always on the same pair of legs. The 
rising itself is executed by moving the hips upward 
and forward, thereby causing the seat-bones to be 

* i.e., at the moment when its diagonal hind leg shoves off. 



2l6 — 

mostly raised, though not more than needed. The 
rider should, as much as possible, refrain from 
leaning forward and curving his back, moving his 
seat upward and backward, raising his shoulders 
or napping his arms; neither should he with rigid 
knees and ankles exert himself to rise from the 
saddle. During the early lessons, and if the teacher 
be mounted, he may, with the palm of his hand 
placed at the back of the pupil's waist, assist as 
well in the raising as in the alighting movement, 
or the pupil may sustain himself by taking hold of 
the mane. The hands are held low and steady, the 
horse well up to the bit ; the reins must not be used 
as a lifting-gear. 

When the rider applies his legs, it should be 
done with a short pressure and at the moment his 
seat touches the saddle. 

When the manner of rising has been sufficiently 
practised at the walk, both to the right hand and 
to the left, one proceeds to the trot, which should 
be somewhat easy (the natural trot) . 

In order not to strain one pair of diagonal legs 
more than the other ' ' the diagonal should be 
changed;" if a certain leg needs to be spared, the 
rider alights on the diagonal to which this leg does 
not belong. 

If rising and alighting when the left fore and 
the right hind are brought forward and planted, 
the rider rides "on the left diagonal" and vice versa. 
As he rides on the left (or right) diagonal, he will 
descend into the saddle simultaneously with the 
left (or right) shoulder's retrograde motion and 



— 2i; — 

rise simultaneously with the left (or right) shoul- 
der's advancing motion. As it is difficult for the 
beginner to know when a hind leg shoves off, he 
can easily determine this by glancing at the 
shoulder-point, thus watching the moment when 
a diagonal is planted. Rising to the trot on one or 
another foot should, for this reason, be referred to 
a fore foot. 

At first the teacher calls out " Up!" or "One!" 
every time the pupil should rise ; later on the pupil 
does so himself, and finally he receives the word — 
"Trot on the right (or left) foot!" In the riding- 
school and in turnings one should ride on the out- 
ward diagonal. 

The changing of diagonal is executed at the 
word, "Change diagonal!" By stronger closing 
of thighs and knees and increased support in the 
stirrups, the rider either keeps himself aloft or 
sits down in the saddle during two consecutive 
steps. After alighting in the saddle, the beginner 
is generally inclined to remain sitting down too 
long, thereby often rising on the same diagonal 
on which he rode previously. 

When resuming the sitting-down trot, the word 
is given: "Sit down!" Consequent to the move- 
ments of the horse at the trot, the rider is raised 
up from the saddle and drops again into it at 
each step. In order not to be raised too much and 
not to pound the horse too hard at the downfall, 
the rider should keep his whole body limber and 
elastic, slightly close his thighs and knees against 
the saddle without any pressure, and keep his 



— 2l8 — 

ankle and instep limber. The "sitting-down 
trot is mostly used in the schooling of the horse 
and in giving lessons. 

During long rides, it should be observed that 
rising to the trot is executed almost equally on 
each foot or that a possibly weak leg may be 
spared. As the speed of the trot increases, the 
rising of the rider diminishes; with so-called 
"Trotters," rising to the trot is almost impossible. 
Horses that cover the ground well and have 
naturally high action are the most pleasing ones 
when rising to the trot. 

The principal faults, to be avoided in rising to 
the trot, are : 

Rising entirely by means of the stirrups, 
rising too much and too suddenly, 
falling down rigidly and suddenly in alighting, 
rising by means of the reins, 
curving the back, leaning the body too much 
forward, raising the shoulders, letting the 
head drop down on the chest, and napping 
with the arms, 
letting the legs move to and fro incessantly and 

drawing up the heels, and 
moving one hip more upward and forward than 
the other.* 

There is no doubt that rising to the trot strains 
the horse's forehand more than the sitting-down 
trot does, therefore many enthusiastic riders 
object to the former, saying, it is not riding but 
merely "conveyance on horseback." One thing 
* Frequently seen when riding in side-saddle. 



— 219 — 

is certain, it does not convey to the rider's whole 
body that healthy all-pervading exercise, for 
which riding, as a sport, is one of the best adapted. 



II. Riding with Curb. 

The curb (Figs. 27 and 28, page 41) works 
in the same manner as two one-armed levers, 
their fulcrums being the eyes (d, Fig. 2 8, page 41) 
of the curb-bit, which are secured by the curb- 
chain; the power (the rider) works through the 
reins, fixed in the rings (e), upon the weight 
(the horse) through the animal's mouth (the 
interdental space). If the effect of the curb-chain 
be greater than that of the mouth piece, i.e., if 
the former causes the horse to suffer any pain, 
it is evident that the curb will produce the reverse 
effect to that which is intended, because the pain, 
naturally, makes the horse throw his nose upward 
and forward and does not make him yield to the 
less severe effect of the mouth piece. In such case, 
the curb would prove of less use to the rider than 
the snafne. When the reins work at a right angle 
to the arms of the curb-bit, the effect is then 
most favourable; if the curb-chain is made too 
short or, if it presses* the horse's nose forward 
and upward, this angle becomes acute; if the 
curb-chain is made too loose, it causes the reins 
to work at an obtuse angle to the arms of the curb- 

* Narrow curb-chains with thin links cause the horse's chin to 
become sore easily, and especially so if the edge of the jaw- 
bones be very sharp (otherwise see page 50.) 



— 220 — 

bit. Using no curb-chain at all, the arms of the 
curb-bit would almost come in the prolongation 
of the reins, i.e., the curb would then work almost 
the same as a snaffle-bit without joint. 

The curb-bit should be adjusted to the 
sensitiveness of the horse's mouth (see pages 42 
and 81) and the rider's hand, just the same as 
the snaffle-bit. 



Mounting and Dismounting, 

In riding with curb the stirrups should gener- 
ally be used. 

Before mounting, the curb-reins should be 
placed over the horse's neck just in front of the 
withers and hanging down equally on either side, 
the snaffle (bridoon) -reins in the same manner, and 
a handbreadth in front of the former (otherwise, 
see pages 81-83); the reins should not be twisted 
or mingled together. 

After dismounting, the reins should be placed 
in the same manner as described before mounting 
or, in leading the horse away, the curb-reins may 
be taken over the horse's head and held in the left 
hand (otherwise see page 78). 

Mounting. 

In riding with curb the mounting is executed 
in the same manner as when using the snaffle alone 
(see page 83, a, I.), though with the following modi- 
fications : 



221 — 

With the back of the hand turned downward 
the rider slides his left hand, with the four fingers 
gathered, along the crest of the horse's neck in front 
of and under the middle of the snaffle-reins, thereby 
placing them in the thumb-grasp ; at the same time 
the thumb and the first finger of the right hand 
seize the end of the curb-reins from above and lift 
them up sufficiently to let the third finger of the 
left hand pass in between them, slightly closing this 
hand with its thumb resting on the reins, which, 
being passed over the first finger, are shortened so as 
to feel the horse's mouth lightly,* and then the end 
of the reins is thrown over on the off side of the 
horse's neck; the right hand grasps a lock of the 
mane and places it in the left hand — the Other 
movements of hands, body and legs being the 
same as previously explained in mounting "with 
snaffle" alone. In taking the reins, the hands 
should not be brought higher above the crest of the 
horse's neck than necessary, in order to avoid the 
hairs of the mane getting in between fingers and 
reins. When mounted and after releasing the lock 
of the mane, the riding- whip having been taken in 
the right hand, the rider passes the thumb of his 
right hand from behind and at the end of the curb- 
reins in between them and, in raising his closed 
right hand with the little finger turned upward 
and straight in front of his face, the reins are 
shortened to a suitable length, with proper allow- 
ance for the right rein being made a trifle (about 



* The curb-reins must not be made too short. 



— 222 

yi inch) shorter than the left,* which may easily 
be arranged by a twist of the thumb and the first 
finger of the right hand when adjusting the length 
of the reins as above described. It should be 




Fig. 57- 

observed that, in adjusting the length of the curb- 
reins with the thumb of the right hand, the left 

* The cause of the right rein being made comparatively- 
shorter than the left is that the former, in passing through 
the left hand and being placed upppermost on the third 
finger and undermost on the first finger, has got the shorter 
distance (of the two) to pass through the whole hand. In 
having an extra buckle-hole punched in the strap of the right 
rein, where it is buckled to the rein-ring of the curb-bit, the 
conditions may be adjusted. 



— 223 — 

hand, with its thumb pointing straight upward, 
should remain a handbreadth from the rider's 
waist. The curb-reins being thus adjusted, the end 
of the reins is then dropped to the off side, and the 
snaffle-reins arranged so as to hang down evenly 
on the outside of the curb-reins (Fig. 57). In 
riding with the curb-reins held in one hand, the 
right hand should either hold the whip with point 
downward and arm and whip straight down by the 
right side, or the whip may be held in the thumb- 
grasp of the left hand (within the reins) and with 
point downward to the right side, the right arm 
hanging straight down as shown in Fig. 70, page 3 21. 



Dismounting. 

In dismounting, when riding with curb, the 
same rules should be observed as in riding with 
snaffle alone (see page 87 a, I.), but with the fol- 
lowing modifications : 

The right hand grasps the curb-reins near and 
above the left, which slides forward upon the reins 
towards the withers, feeling the horse's mouth 
lightly ; then the right hand lets go the reins to the 
off side, takes a lock of the mane and places it into 
the left hand ; otherwise the same as in dismounting 
"with snafflle" alone. 

If riding with all four reins held in both hands 
(see pages 225-226, "Handling the Reins"), the 
snaffle-reins may, in dismounting, be lengthened 
to their full length and held with their middle 
part in the full of the left hand and apart from 



— 224 — 

the curb-reins, the same as in mounting (Fig. 57), 
or the right snaffle-rein, held in the right hand, 
may be brought between the thumb and forefinger 
of the left hand, all four reins equally shortened. 
If all four reins are held in the left hand (see 
pages 226-227), the easiest way of holding the 
reins, when dismounting, is to shorten all four 
reins at the same time and in the same manner as 
in dismounting with the curb-reins only (see above) . 
When riding with curb and practising mount- 
ing and dismounting "during motion," only the 
snaffle-reins should be used (otherwise see pages 
86, b and 89, b). 

Handling the Reins. 

Owing to the considerably severer effect 
that the curb has, compared with the snaffle, a 
steady and pliable hand is absolutely necessary 
for a proper management of the reins when riding 
with curb; for the same reason, less movement is 
also required of the hand in riding with curb than 
when using only snaffle. 

With the curb, the management of the reins 
is accomplished principally or entirely by the left 
hand, as the right hand, when holding the right 
snaffle-rein, is only used to assist in the move- 
ments of the left, which, for this reason, is called 
the bridle-hand. When the movements of the 
hand are mentioned in this chapter, it is only 
those of the left hand that will be explained, as 
the right hand, holding the right snaffle-rein, 



— 225 — 

handles it according to what has been previously 
said about "Riding with Snaffle." 

The fundamental position. Holding the reins 
the same as in mounting described, the position 
of the hand is the same as that with snaffle (see 
page 96), only that the left hand is brought so 
much over to the right as to stand straight above 
the middle line of the horse (ab, Fig. 47, page 
147)- 




Fig. 58. 



The four reins are generally used; they act 
then in concert and may be held in both hands or 
in one only: 

If the four reins are held in both hands, it 
should be done in the following manner: When 

15 — Handbook for Riders. 



226 — 

holding the reins as in mounting (Fig. 57), the 
right hand takes hold of the snaffle-rein close to 
the right side of the left hand and draws the left 
snaffle-rein through the left hand, shortening it 
to the same length as the left curb-rein and placing 
it over the latter with the left thumb closed up- 
on the three reins; then the right hand shortens 
the right snaffle-rein so as to feel the horse's mouth 
lightly, and in so doing, assisted by the forefinger 
of the left hand;* the end of the snaffle-reins 
hanging down between the right curb — and 




Fig. 59 



snaffle-rein and the right hand holding the right 
snaffle-rein in the same manner as in riding with 
snaffle alone (Fig. 58). 

If the four reins are held in one hand, it 
should be done in the following manner: When 
holding the reins in both hands, as above de- 
scribed, the right snaine-rein is placed under the 

* The left thumb should remain on the three reins. 



— 227 — 

forefinger of the left hand and drawn forward 
over the same finger, thus placing it underneath 
the three other reins, then the left thumb closed 
upon the four reins; thus the four reins are placed 
over the middle part of the left forefinger and in 
the following order {Fig. 59) : uppermost the 
left snaffle-rein (1), then the left curb-rein (2) 
next the right curb-rein (3) and undermost the 
light snaffle-rein (4). 

When riding with the four reins in both 
hands, the rider may need his right hand for some- 
thing or other and only for a short time, the right 
snaffle-rein should be placed into the left thumb- 
grasp above the three other reins. 

The four reins being held in the bridle-hand, 
the whip may be placed in the left thumb-grasp 
(within the reins) and with its point downwards 
on the right side. When the four reins and the 
whip are held in the bridle-hand and the reins 
are to be taken in both hands, the whip should 
first be taken in the right hand. 

What has been said on page 96 about giving 
and taking of the reins, when using the snaffle 
alone, may, in all essentials, also be applied to the 
curb; though it should be still more particularly 
observed that the alternate taking and giving, 
by which the horse is made light and agreeable 
on the rein, is of still more importance in riding 
with curb than in using the snaffle alone. 

Giving. By turning the hand at the wrist, 
the little finger is brought forward, the thumb 
pointing more or less towards the waist. 



— 22% — 

Taking. By turning the hand at the wrist, 
the little finger is brought straight back towards 
the breast, the thumb pointing more or less 
forward. 

In bending the horse's head sideways, the same 
rules should be observed as explained for the 
snaffle, on pages 147-150. 

a. To the left. The hand is turned in such 
a way that the little finger points towards the 
rider's right hip, and the knuckle of the forefinger 
is straight above the middle line (ab, Fig. 47) 
of the horse. This motion of the hand not only 
causes the left rein to be shortened but gives a 
pressure of the right rein against the horse's neck, 
thus preventing it from false bending sideways. 
The right hand, when holding the right snafne-rein, 
should be carried to the right sufficiently to give 
place for the motion of the bridle hand. 

b. To the right. By more outward rounding 
of the wrist (see page 92) and by turning the 
knuckle of the forefinger over to the left, the 
little finger still remaining above the middle line 
of the horse, the right rein will be shortened, and 
the left pressed against the horse's neck. 

Turning. With the hand in one of the 
above described positions, the horse should, when 
the rider's legs and weight are added, as a rule, 
turn; but, should it not prove sufficient, the 
hand, while still remaining in one of the described 
positions (to the left or to the right), may be 
turned so as to raise the little finger towards the 
rider's inward shoulder, thus causing a stronger 



— 229 — 

pressure of the outward rein against the horse's 
neck without any easing of the inward. 

When riding with horse's head bent sideways 
and either in order to prevent any turning or to 
make the horse turn with contra-bending (see 
pages 161 and 162) the little finger, while re- 
maining in its turned position, should be moved 
towards the rider's outward hip, thus causing a 
tension upon the outward rein and a stronger 
pressure of the inward rein against the horse's 
neck, though without influencing the bending 
effect of the latter. 

In the turning of the little finger of the bridle 
hand towards the rider's left shoulder or hip, his 
lower arm may also, if necessary, be moved a 
little backward along his waist. 

In practical riding with curb, the effect of 
the rider's legs and weight should be first tried, 
before resorting to the use of the reins. 

In the shortening and lengthening of the reins, 
the thumb and forefinger of the right hand take 
hold of the rein in question either behind or in 
front of the bridle hand and draw it through the 
hand to the desired length. 

On account of the management of the reins 
being accomplished principally or entirely with 
the bridle hand, the rider's left shoulder is apt to 
be drawn forward and downward; for this reason, 
the reins should occasionally be changed to the 
right hand. Whether riding only with the curb- 
reins or with the four reins in one hand, the transfer 
of the reins is done by the forefinger of the right 



— 230 — 

hand being placed between both curb-reins just 
in front of the bridle hand and the other fingers 
closed around the reins, the back of the right hand 
turned upward, and the reins released from the 
bridle hand. In turning the horse with the right 
hand held in this position, the hand may, if 
necessary, by bending of the wrist and slight 
motions of the hand, cause the animal to turn to 
one side or another. 



The Lessons. 

The increased effect of the curb, compared 
with that of the snaffle, and also the rider's want of 
practice in handling four reins, makes it advisable 
at first to ride with the curb-reins a trifle more 
eased than the snaffle-reins. In order to attain 
proper skill in holding the reins, a halt is often 
made, and the reins thrown over the horse's neck 
and retaken; dismounting and mounting should 
frequently be practised; also shortening and 
lengthening of the reins, their handling in other 
respects and that of the whip, as well as saluting 
on horseback. 

The reins should then be made the same 
length, and the proper giving and taking be prac- 
tised. When the rider has acquired a fairly 
correct feeling of the effect produced by the curb, 
"bending the horse" should be exercised on the 
great circle as being most advantageous for 
such purpose. At this period wide % turns (see 
pages 1 66 and 167) across the school are also 



— 231 — 

made in order to establish the fact that the use of 
the reins will gradually be eclipsed by that of the 
rider's legs and weight. 

Otherwise the same lessons should be practised 
when riding with curb as with snaffle alone; 
they should be executed in the same order and by 
the same aids as in riding with snaffle, though 
proper allowance must be made for the increased 
effect of the reins; the gallop may, nevertheless, 
be commenced at an earlier time than has been 
set for lessons "with snaffle"; besides this, the 
bendings of the horse's neck and yielding sideways 
to the rider's leg should be unnecessary practices 
in riding with curb, as the correctly broken horse 
should readily submit to bending of the head and 
to the influences for side-gaits, without the^pre- 
liminary practices being introduced. 

The lessons should at first be practised with 
the four reins held in two hands, later on in one 
hand and, finally, the easier lessons may be exer- 
cised with the curb-reins alone, though, in prac- 
tising the side-gaits and in jumping, the four 
reins should, as a rule, be used in two hands. 

III. Measures Adapted to Special Cases. 

To discuss all the various critical incidents 
that may arise when on horseback would be 
interminable; and for this reason I shall only 
treat those of the most ordinary occurrence and at 
the same time advise the rider — should the horse 
become his master — to turn the animal over to an 
able trainer, and the sooner the better. 



— 232 — 

Any bad habit of the horse should be stopped 
at its outset, if possible, or, if not, be limited so far 
that the animal does not get beyond one's control; 
in such cases the equanimity of the rider is as much 
required as is the balance of his body, for the one 
depends on the other. 

When a horse stumbles, which may occur from 
sluggishness, fatigue or some physical defects, he 
must not be punished; because the sluggishness 
and fatigue may either have their origin from the 
rider's want of skill in sustaining the animal when 
most needed, or from the horse's ignorance and 
want of practice with regard to the immediate cir- 
cumstances, and to punish the animal in such 
cases, or for its physical defects, would not only be 
cruel and unjust, but it would lay bare the rider's 
unfitness and want of self-control. Moreover, the 
punishment at stumbling would generally cause 
the already unbalanced animal to rush forward, 
adding more strain to the drooping forehand, and 
a fall may ensue, i.e., what might have been pre- 
vented has happened. A horse treated in this 
manner will inevitably expect punishment when 
even making but a misstep, and consequently, 
trying to escape it in a horse-like manner, he 
rushes forward and, maybe, stumbles or even falls, 
i.e., he is being trained to stumble. To prevent or 
remedy stumbling the rider's influences should be 
instructive and sustaining to the horse, i.e., he 
should be kept between legs and reins (see page 108), 
and when he does stumble, the rider should throw 
his upper body back and with a steady hand sup- 



— 233 — 

port the horse with the reins, but not punish him 
with spurs and whip. 

When the horse jails in spite of the rider's 
efforts to keep the animal on its legs, he should not 
directly give up, especially so if it only goes down 
on its knees, when but the hind legs remain stand- 
ing; for an immediate and resolute throwing back 
of the rider's upper body, together with an ener- 
getic raising tension upon the snaffle-reins and 
proper aid of his legs, will generally make the 
animal recover its legs. Even if the horse should 
fall with all four legs under him, but without fall- 
ing over to the side, an active and strong horse 
and able rider should "stand and fall together," 
as even in such case a light and lithe seat in the 
saddle, and so balanced that the least weight is 
imparted to the rising legs, may enable the horse 
to recover his legs; the forehand should be raised 
first, if the horse does not by his own efforts try to 
raise himself by all four legs at the same time. The 
raising of the forehand is done with the reins, the 
hind quarters by the rider's legs. Meanwhile, if in 
such case the horse does not directly recover his 
legs, he will most frequently fall over to the side; 
it is then of importance to the rider, as soon as 
possible, to set himself free from the horse and rid 
himself of the stirrups, but an able rider should 
never let go the reins unless his life is at stake and 
might be saved by so doing. 

If the horse runs away — which is most fre- 
quently caused by fright or pain, for instance, a 
too hard hand and a too severe bit, or by some dis- 



— 234 — 

ease of the brain — the rider, by acting judiciously, 
should, in the case of fright, be able to check the 
animal when the cause of its fright is out of hearing 
or sight. If the occurrence is caused by pain, the 
cause must, if possible, be removed. In any case 
it is of the greatest importance for the rider not to 
lose his head, nor by shouting for help and an 
unsteady seat provoke the already excited animal 
still more. The lost respect for the bit is easiest 
restored by quiet words, while alternately taking 
and giving forcibly with the reins; a constant 
pulling on the reins only deadens the horse's 
mouth. As for the use of the spurs see page in. 
According to whether the horse carries his nose 
high or his chin against his breast, the hands are 
kept low or high. In riding with curb the curb- 
reins and snaffle-reins should be taken two in each 
hand, the same as in riding with double snaffle 
(see page ioo). 

In order to slacken the speed of a runaway- 
horse, the reins on one side should be drawn very 
short and the leg or the spur applied to the same 
side; if the horse is made to turn even slightly, the 
pace will generally slacken a little ; then, if possible, 
the horse should be guided towards some sub- 
stantial obstacle as, for instance, the wall of a house ; 
otherwise such objects should be avoided. If luckily 
there should be any large open space, to which the 
rider could direct his horse and there let him run 
in wide circles until he is tired out, gradually 
diminishing the circles according to the speed, 
the rider's control of the animal would soon be 






— 235 — 

re-established. Meanwhile, he must not be contented 
with this, but he should then force the horse to run 
a little more than he wants, which will often dis- 
courage the animal from further attempts in the 
way of bolting, at all events for the time being. 

If no remedy seems to avail and all control 
over the animal is gone, and it aims straight at 
some dangerous obstacle, where certain death 
seems to face the rider, he should look out for 
the safest place to get off his horse and then grasp 
the mane with his right hand, release the stirrups 
and the reins, push off from the saddle with his 
left hand and, in flying off to the left and forward, 
should try to land on his feet and on soft ground, 
if such be found. Should the horse be moving on 
a curved line, the rider must so arrange the use of 
his hands that he may land on the inner side. It 
is a risky experiment, but I have tried it myself 
once, when the joint of the snaffle-bit, with which 
I was riding, broke in the horse's mouth, and, 
after a few somersaults, I found myself none the 
worse but for the loss of the heel of a boot. 

When riding a horse that is inclined to rush 
on his way home, strict care should be taken that 
the stable doors or the gate be kept closed while the 
animal is out. 

Horses that shy must be handled cautiously 
and, at the same time, with firmness; cautiously, 
because the fault is generally caused by the 
animal's ignorance of the dreaded object or 
sound, and with firmness, because the rider's 
determined course of action will make the animal 



— 236^— 

pay more attention to his influences than to the 
cause of its fear; any uncertainty on the part of 
the rider will only confirm the animal in its fear. 
The horse's fear is easiest allayed by the rider 
behaving as if nothing unusual were going on, 
keeping the horse well "between legs and reins" 
and in an unchanged direction towards or past the 
dreaded object; soothing words and caresses are, 
under such circumstances, the rider's surest 
helpmates; if possible, the horse should be brought 
so close to the object that excites his fear that he 
may smell it. When the animal has obeyed the 
rider, it should be rewarded with approving 
address, caresses and — if such are at hand — with 
some oats, carrots, apples, etc., but not with 
sugar. 

Punishment is sure to increase the animal's 
fear. 

If the horse tries to whirl himself round, he 
should be brought into " versing-position " in a 
way that his head is bent away from the object 
of his fear; at any rate, the rider must, with 
might and main, try to prevent the animal from 
twisting himself round; punishment with spurs 
and whip (see pages 111-113) is, in such a case, 
fully justified. If, nevertheless, the horse should 
succeed in turning aside, he must always be 
turned back from that side to which he turns. 
If he cannot be made to turn back, but rears or 
sweeps off sideways from what has caused his 
fear, he should be made to stand for a short 
while and meantime be calmed down; then he 



— 237 — 

should be backed towards the place where he 
turned, then left alone for a while, talked to in a 
soothing way and again backed close to the place 
where the trouble began, when a sudden turn on 
forehand, by the strong use of leg and rein on the 
same side to which he is turned, will unexpectedly 
bring the animal face to face with the object of its 
fear. This behavior on the part of the rider will 
scarcely fail to confuse the horse to such degree 
that he will stand as if paralyzed on the spot, and 
the reward should then instantly follow. 

To turn back, to dismount, or to go a long 
way about, will generally result in a shy horse 
becoming restive. 

A common fault with inexperienced riders 
is to suggest beforehand where the battle should 
take place, and then arrange oneself in the saddle, 
tighten the reins with convulsively clenched 
hands and hold on by the legs, as if notifying the 
animal: "Now we will see!" Challenging the 
horse in this manner will scarcely fail to be met 
with acceptation. 

Restive and stubborn horses should be handled 
much the same as shy ones. The cause of the 
restiveness should, as soon as possible, be found 
out and, if possible, be removed — the horse 
may, for instance, be wrongly bridled or saddled, 
through which something or other pains him. 
If viciousness be the cause, the rider must, if 
gentleness be of no use, act energetically; in 
such a case, forcible use of spurs and whip may 
be made, also backing in the same direction in 



which the animal will not advance, or repeatedly 
turning round on the spot. If it be a deeply 
rooted fault of the animal, most frequently arising 
from rough handling in its youth, a thorough 
breaking by an experienced trainer is required 
in order to re-establish the lost confidence in 
men, and the remedy is longeing, which, however, 
lies beyond the limits of this book. 

Restive horses frequently try, in different 
ways, to dispose of their tormentor, "the rider;" 
if not sufficiently firm in the saddle, one should then 
dismount as soon as possible and leave the cure 
to a professional trainer; for if the horse once 
gets into the habit of ridding himself of the rider, 
it is almost past belief what the animal may take 
into its head to do in that respect, and what 
difficulties this may give even the ablest rider to 
overcome. 

A common trick of the horse is to lean up 
against an object, such as a wall, a tree, etc., and 
there to try rubbing the rider off; the horse's 
head and neck should then be bent much to the 
side where the object is, and at the same time 
the spur applied on the same side. 

If the horse tries to lie down with the rider, 
and punishment with spurs and whip be fruitless, 
one must immediately free oneself from the animal 
and inflict a regular drubbing on it with the whip, 
at the same time trying to hold it down on the 
ground. 

If a horse rears, the upper part of the rider's 
body should be inclined forward, the reins in- 



— 2 39 — 

stantly slackened, and, if the fault be not from 
fright, punishment with spurs and whip should 
directly follow (see pages 111-113). If the animal 
goes up very high, the rider may grasp its neck 
with both arms (besides see Fig. 60) ; but if it 




Fig. 60. 

At well equipped Cavalry Schools of Equitation one or two horses 

are schooled to rear at a sign from the Instructor in order 

to teach the pupils how to act in such a case. 



is felt that the horse is tottering backwards, the 
stirrups should be released, and, shoving off from 
the saddle with both hands, the rider should 
throw himself off, out to the side. 



— 240 

To strike the horse with the whip on the 
head should not be done, as it may often have 
the reverse effect of that desired; besides, using 
the whip in front of the horse's shoulder is not 
considered civilized, and it is cruel. 

The most incorrigible rearers may often 
be cured in the following manner: The rider 
provides himself with a bottle, or glass-balloon, 
made of very thin glass and with a long neck (the 
same as for chemical use) ; it is filled with water 
and corked; the rider holds it by the neck in his 
right hand. When the horse rears, the bottle is 
smashed by a quick blow between the horse's 
ears; the water, pouring down over his head, 
makes him immediately lower the forehand. If 
the blow be applied quickly and suddenly, the 
splinters of glass will rarely or never injure the 
horse; and even if they do, the injury is so slight 
that it is of no consequence. By applying this 
treatment once, maybe twice, the horse will, as a 
rule, forever be cured of rearing; at all events, 
any such further attempts may be prevented by 
the rider merely placing his hand on the horse's 
neck, near to the ears, and he will remember the 
breaking of the object from which, the water 
poured. 

If the horse kicks, the rider should throw 
his upper body back, according to how high the 
horse's croup is raised, and observing the general 
rule of keeping the upper body perpendicular to 
the horizontal ground. Raising the horse's neck 
and head, and making him advance by pressure 



— 241 — 

of the legs may diminish or, if applied at the 
right moment, even prevent any raising of the 
croup. 

Side-leaps may be prevented by forcible use 
of leg, spur and whip (see pages 111-113) on the 
same side to which the horse throws himself; the 
horse's head should also be bent much to this side, 
while the rider's hands are brought over to the 
opposite side (besides see pages 83 and 108). 

With regard to the rider's "sticking on," 
bucking is almost the worst fault a horse can 
have, especially if he be not saddled with a "cow- 
boy" saddle, from which it is almost impossible 
to be thrown. The rider should not make the 
situation worse by clinging with his calves and 
heels; but, on the contrary, he should try to keep 
his balance by supporting himself forward in 
the stirrups. In bucking, the horse shoves off 
from the ground with all four legs almost at the 
same time, his back being curved upward and his 
head down between his fore-knees and, when 
grounding, his fore legs are stiff and stretched 
forth. In violent bucking, the saddle-girths may 
often break. If one does not succeed in getting 
the horse's nose quickly enough pulled up, even 
the best rider may then be thrown, especially as 
in such cases, the horse does not generally content 
himself with that one plunge. 

If the horse does not stand quietly when 
being mounted, and soothing address and caresses 
prove useless, or if then he strikes at the rider with 
the fore legs, he should be punished by backing 

16 — Handbook for Riders. 



\ 

— 242 — 

until he leaves off; in the latter case cuts of the 
whip on the fore legs may also be applied. 

If the horse kicks forward with a hind leg 
(so-called cow-kick), for instance, after the rider's 
foot, when mounting, the horse should be punished 
by backing. 

When, in riding, the horse kicks after the 
rider's leg or spur, it should be punished by a sharp 
cut of the spur. 

If the horse puts his tongue over the bit and lets 
the tongue hang out of the mouth, he must not 
be hit with the whip on the tongue. The fault 
may occasionally be prevented by placing the bit 
higher in the mouth; but, after all, the surest 
remedy is a kind of curb-bit with a stop-plate 
fixed on to the mouth piece. In putting this bit 
into the mouth of the horse, it should be strictly 
observed that the tongue gets under the bit. ' 



Supplement. 



Outdoor Riding. 

The first ride out-of-doors should be taken 
in a large open space and under the instruction 
of the 'teacher; if there is opportunity, riding 
over various obstacles should be practised at 
the same time. 

The pupil should take his first road lesson 
on a steady, quiet horse and in company with 
the teacher or with another experienced rider, 
and then all unusual occurrences should be avoided, 
for instance, riding on very crowded promenades 
or roads, equipping oneself with new saddlery or 
riding garments, tight fitting gloves, cigar in the 
mouth, etc. 

Proceeding in this manner, and by gradually 
increasing the difficulties, the rider will soon 
acquire the self-reliance which every sportsman 
needs. 

The rider should always observe the road on 
which he rides, and in such a manner that, by 
looking forward over the horse's head, he may 
know what lays between his horse and the spot 
where his line of vision meets the ground; for, in 



— 244 — 

looking down just in front of the horse's fore legs, 
he will not be able to get out of the way of obstacles 
in time, or be able to leap over them. 

On beaten roads, the rider generally keeps 
to the right side, if the rider's safety or the care of 
the horse's legs should not demand otherwise; 
and only then, if space be at one's disposal, the 
softest and least stony part of the road should be 
chosen. In meeting anybody, one keeps to the 
right side,* whereas in passing by, it is done to the 
left of the one in front, and it should be observed 
that nobody is inconvenienced by it, either by 
being soiled, hustled, or by causing their horses 
to shy, which last mentioned may often occur 
when riding at a too rapid pace while passing. 

When riding in company, the pace should be 
kept so that everybody can keep up with it, and 
should one or more of the horses become unman- 
ageable, or in trotting break into a gallop, the 
others should be pulled up until quiet is again 
restored. It should also be strictly observed that 
roads, public promenades and streets are not the 
right places for horse-racing.** 

When riding in company with others to whom 
respectful consideration should be shown or who 
may need protection or assistance, such persons 
should have the privilege of riding to the opposite 
side of any one they meet. 



* In England, Sweden and a few other countries, in meeting, 
one keeps to the left side. 

** About the pace, generally used in outdoor riding, see the 
chapter about "The various paces." 



— 245 — 

When riding in company, two or more abreast, 
if the breadth of the road does not offer sufficient 
room for meeting anybody, then the one or those 
nearest to the meeting side should pull the horse 
up and let the rider on the outside pass in front, 
the others following one by one, exactly behind 
the leader. If, under such circumstances, anybody 
has to be passed from behind, one acts in like 
manner, inasmuch as the one on the inside passes 
in front. 

When a rider is accompanied by a mounted 
servant, the latter should ride about 20 yards 
behind his master. 

When on a long ride the horse needs a rest, 
the rider should dismount and loosen the girths 
a little. If, in such case, the horse be put up in a 
strange stable, it should be ascertained beforehand 
as to whether there be or have been sick horses 
in it, if the floor is safe, if there be outstanding 
nails or anything on which the horse is likely to 
injure himself, if manger and drinking- vessel be 
clean, if there be proper contrivances for tying 
the horse up, etc. 

When riding in company, no one should start 
before all are mounted. 

In riding on stony, uneven and swampy ground, 
in deep snow or when it is dark or foggy, the horse 
should be kept well "between legs and reins," 
though in the last two mentioned cases it may be 
advisable to let the horse choose the way himself, 
for, as a rule, he can see or perceive better than 
the rider. When in swampy land or in snow, the 



— 246 — 

animal sinks deeply and becomes nervous, the 
rider should try to calm it down by dismounting 
and leading it. 

On ice, on narrow roads (mountain-paths) 
and in passing over frail bridges, and altogether 
on such places where the horse may be liable to 
slip or fall, the rider must sit lithely and steadily 
in the saddle, supporting himself lightly in the 
stirrups and not influencing the horse too much, 
unless he should slip or stumble, and then sus- 
taining him in a quiet and controlled manner but 
not abruptly. If, nevertheless, the horse should 
fall, the stirrups are released, the rider grasps the 
mane and, providing the animal does not fall 
over to the side, it should be encouraged in recov- 
ering its legs (see page 233), observing that the 
reins do not prevent it from stretching forth its 
neck and head. If the animal should fall over 
to the side, the rider tries to bring his leg so far 
out to the side to where the animal is falling, that 
he may reach the ground with his foot and, in 
endeavouring to keep his body erect, throw his 
other leg quickly over to the same side. 

In riding up or down hill (see pages 107-108), 
the rider's legs may be brought backward or for- 
ward (i.e., slight support in the stirrups), the reins 
should be slightly eased or tightened, and the 
rider's body kept perpendicular to the horizontal 
ground. In riding up very steep hills, the rider 
may grasp the mane or he may dismount and 
lead the horse. Ground with steep acclivities, 
not being slippery, may be ridden zig-zag. With- 



— 247 — 

out any special reason, hills should not be ridden 
over at any other pace than the walk. 

Fences and ditches, the latter not being 
broader than the horse can walk or jump over, 
are taken according to the rules for high and broad 
jumping (see "Obstacle-Riding"). Over broad 
stone walls and banks, the horse is made to climb 
or to leap upon the top and down again on the 
other side. If a ditch be so broad that the horse 
cannot clear it by jumping, one may, if the slopes 
are not too steep, ride a bit down the side of the 
ditch and from thence make the horse jump across 
to the opposite slope and then climb up to the 
edge. One may also ride slowly and slantways 
down into the ditch and in the same manner 
up again on the other side. If the bottom of the 
ditch be broad and firm, the sides steep and the 
ditch not too deep, one simply jumps down on the 
bottom and up again. 

In jumping obstacles, slippery or soft ground 
should be carefully avoided. 

Not being sure that the horse can clear the 
obstacle (with his rider), it is better not to try, 
but to dismount at once and lead the horse over; 
for, when rid of the rider's weight, the thing 
becomes considerably easier. 

In crossing water by fording, the horse is 
kept well "between legs and reins" and is ridden, 
without hesitation, into the water at a place where 
the bottom is even and firm, in order to prevent 
the animal from stumbling, falling or sinking 
down, which might give it a permanent fear of 



— 248 — 

passing through water. Being so unfortunate as 
to hit upon a place where the horse sinks, he 
will become nervous and start to work fiercely 
with his legs; the rider should then dismount at 
once and lead the horse over or turn back, ac- 
cording to circumstances. Passing through flowing 
water, it should be done obliquely against the 
current, the rider looking towards the other bank 
and not down at the water, lest he turn dizzy. 
If the horse begins to paw in the water with his 
fore legs, it is generally a sign that he intends to 
lie down; he must then be forced forward with 
legs or spurs. 

Many horses have such a great dislike of 
passing through water that one may have to 
temporize with them for hours; everything then 
depends on having patience and not giving in. 
Under such circumstances it is advisable to leave 
the horse by the edge of the water alone for a 
while or to ride him up and down along the water 
side. The reins should be eased sufficiently 
now and then to allow the animal to smell the 
water and, if he likes, to take a drink. With 
soothing words and caresses, one may at last 
succeed in getting the horse at least a few steps 
into the water, after which he should be rewarded 
by again being ridden slowly back to terra firma. 
By repeating this method with calmness and per- 
severance, the animal's fear of the water may 
vanish forever. If the water be very shallow, 
backing the horse may also be tried. 

Railroad tracks should be crossed with care and 



— 249 — 

always at a walk and at a right angle to the rails, 
otherwise the horse may slip, stumble or fasten his 
foot in the rails, thus tearing off the shoe and even 
the outside wall of the hoof. 

In riding under low superstructures or trees the 
body should be bent down towards the right 
shoulder of the horse without displacing the seat ; 
the right hand may take a lock of the mane, the 
reins are eased sufficiently to allow the horse to 
stretch out neck and head, and he is urged forward 
by the aid of voice and legs. If, during such pas- 
sage, the horse gets frightened, stops, tries to turn 
round or possibly attempts to rear, then the rider 
throws himself quickly off to the right (or to the 
left, according to the rule of the road for meeting) . 



The Full Gallop. 

{The Carrier e.) 

This pace (see pages 115-116 and 121) is prac- 
tised only on straight lines, and when the rider has 
acquired a sure and correct seat at the other paces 
and in jumping. There are no paces at which the 
horse requires such intense support on the reins as 
in carriere, though the rider's hand and elbow must 
be pliant so as to follow the greater movements of 
the horse's neck and head, and not to interfere 
with the speed by unintentional nudges of the bit. 
The immense bending and stretching of the horse's 
back require a supple and quiet seat, i.e., the body 
of the rider "goes with" the motions of the horse 



— 250 — 

so as not to interfere with the movements of the 
muscles of his back. 

During the carriere the body is held slightly- 
forward without raising the seat too much from 
the saddle. With firm support in the stirrups and 
with thighs and knees fitting closely to the sides of 
the horse, he is urged forward with legs or spurs — 
according to the animal's temper — and kept well 
on the reins, which are given sufficiently not to 
prevent the extended position of the horse's neck 
and head. 

In practising the carriere, the horse is 
put from the walk into the short trot, which is 
increased to the middle trot from which the horse 
is put on a quiet gallop right or left, which by 
degrees is increased to the carriere, observing that 
the horse does not break into a cross gallop (see 
pages 121 and 192) and does not "slip out of one's 
hand," i.e., the obedience to the tensions upon the 
reins must not be lost. The cross-gallop is easiest 
mended by changing the fore legs (see page 193). 
If the rider perceives that the obedience to the 
tensions on the reins is lost, the horse is either not 
let out into the carriere or he is directly pulled up 
and — if necessary — he should be backed (see page 
152). Sometimes the lost respect for the bit may 
be re-established by alternate takings on the 
snaffle-reins, i.e., by pulling the bit from one side 
of the mouth to the other. When at this pace it is 
necessary to ride on a curve, it should be taken very 
wide, and even then the horse should be pulled in 
a little. 



— 251 — 

When the carriere is to be stopped, it is done 
by degrees in passing first over into the extended 
gallop, then into a trot and walk. Immediately 
after a carriere, the horse should be made to walk 
for a good while, but not be allowed to rest at the 
stand. 



Method of Swimming a Horse. 

The horse being used to pass deep water by 
fording and taught to swim without rider, the 
swimming with rider may be practised if the latter 
can swim. 

In teaching the horse to swim alone, he is pro- 
vided with a halter to which a longe is fastened, 
the longe being held by a person who — according 
to the breadth of the water — stands on the opposite 
shore or accompanies the animal in a boat. The 
horse is then led by another person as far as pos- 
sible out into the water; the one, who holds the 
longe, tries to guide the horse and prevent him 
from turning back. 

When swimming a horse with the rider on, the 
rider should press his legs firmly to the sides of the 
animal and grasp a lock of the mane in his right 
hand; without looking down at the water, the 
rider guides the horse to a place on the opposite 
shore, where the landing can be made. If the horse 
is saddled, the girths should be loosened, the curb- 
chain taken off and the stirrups drawn up, before 
he is ridden into the water. 

If the water is flowing, the horse is guided a 



— 252 — 

trifle obliquely with the current. When the horse 
has landed, he is put into a trot for awhile in order 
to get him dry and warm. When feeling that the 
horse is sinking, the rider loosens his legs and holds 
on to the mane with both hands, and in this way 
swims with the horse on his downstream side. 



Long Distance Rides. 

Making a long ride, according to a previously 
made out scheme, either in a fixed time or in the 
shortest possible one, is what is termed a long dis- 
tance ride. Such rides must not be mistaken for 
racing. 

Besides the qualities of the rider, for instance, 
his endurance, weight, horsemanship and knowl- 
edge of horseflesh, it is particularly the qualities of 
the horse together with the previous training and 
feeding, which are decisive as to the length and the 
speed of the ride. What otherwise may influence 
the ride are the condition of the roads and those of 
the weather and — in case of the ride lasting a 
whole day or more — the accommodation and 
fodder, which may be procured for the horse while 
on the way. 

The endurance of the horse depends upon the 
activity of the muscles and that of the lungs, and 
it is always the lungs which give out first at all 
paces except at the walk. 

It is of great importance for a rider, who 
intends making a strenuous ride, to possess some 
knowledge of the respiration of the animal, this 



— 253 — 

being the only means of utilizing the horse's 
strength to the utmost without breaking him 
down. 

The following observations have been made 
with regard to the respiration of a horse with the 
rider on and at the different paces: 
At rest the respirations are 8 to 12 in a minute. 

" the ordinary walk " 16 to 24 

" the road walk about 44 * 

" the trot " for about 

y 2 mile 42, 

1 " 46, 

2 " 51 in a minute, 
and at the stretched trot the respirations may in- 
crease to 65 and even more. 

At the gallop the respirations are 

for $/% mile 55 in a minute. 

" 2 " 72 to 84 " 
At the carriere the respirations are 

for 1^ furlong 58 
" $4 mile 60 to 72 " 
In the carriere at a long stretch (racing), the 
respirations may increase to 130 in a minute, but 
then the pace must be diminished, unless the 
animal is to be suffocated. Over-exertion of the 
lungs becomes apparent first by rapid and short 
respiration; later on the horse stretches out his 
neck and throws his head forward and finally 
respiration becomes deep and groaning and the 
rider feels that his legs no longer touch the sides of 

* This proves how important the fast walk must be for 
developing the functions of the horse's lungs. 



— 254 — 

the horse on account of the spasms of the chest; 
then the speed must be stopped, as another furlong 
would cause congestion. 

It has been stated that 2 miles at a fast walk 
make the horse as much out of breath as about yi 
mile at a trot ; 2 miles at a trot as l / 2 mile at a gal- 
lop ; about y 2 mile at a gallop as one furlong at the 
carriere. 

Training the horse for long distance rides is 
principally accomplished at the walk and the trot, 
and it takes from 4 to 6 weeks. It is preferable 
to do the training in the open if the ground be soft 
and level. 

The first week the horse is ridden from 2 to 3 
hours a day and at the road walk; between each 
hour 10 minutes' rest at the ordinary walk. A 
period of trot for 5 minutes each half hour would 
not hurt, the pace to be the short trot. 

The second week the horse is ridden 3 hours a 
day and in the same manner as the first week, only 
the periods of trot are increased to 10 minutes; 
henceforth the pace being middle trot. 

The third week the horse is ridden 4 hours a 
day and in the same manner as the two previous 
weeks, only the periods of trot are increased to 15 
minutes. 

The fourth week the periods of trot are in- 
creased to 20 minutes. 

The fifth and sixth weeks the horse is ridden 
5 hours daily and then the periods of trot may be 
increased even up to 30 minutes. During this time 



— 255 — 

one may make a trial-ride of 30 to 40 miles with 
y^ hour's rest mid-way. 

It must be particularly observed that the last 
10 to 15 minutes, before the horse is placed in a 
stable, are ridden at a walk. 

As to feeding and watering, see pages 27 and 30. 

To bring the horse "in condition" by sweat- 
ing* him should only be done, if the animal be very 
fat and if the time be short for the training. 

As a first practice at a long distance ride a trip 
of about 60 miles is made in one day, using about 
one hour to every 6 miles and a rest of two hours 
mid-way. 

A favourable alternation between trot and walk 
is 6 minutes at the trot and 5 minutes at the walk, 
and after a ride of 55 minutes, dismounting and 
resting for 5 minutes. At such a rate one rides 6 
miles and 520 yards an hour. 

Up and down steep hills one should not trot. 

At long distance rides the most frequently 
used alternation between trot and walk is 1 mile at 
the trot and ]/ 2 mile at the walk;** by changing 
too frequently from the trot to the walk and vice 
versa, the horse as well as the rider becomes 
fatigued. The trot should be the middle trot. If 
very long distances are travelled, the walk should 
be kept at a rate of about ]/ 2 mile in 9 minutes ; at 
such a walk the respirations are about 20 in a 
minute. 



* The horse, while ridden, being covered with several blankets 
and then ridden until he gets into a good sweat. 
** With regard to the calculation of time see "The Various 
Paces." 



— 256 — 

At a gallop, if not too fast, one may, on a well- 
trained horse, do periods of about 2 miles, for the 
length of the road fatigues less than the speed — 
"it is the pace that kills." 

On long rides, of which the point is to utilize 
the strength of the horse to the utmost without 
wearing the animal out, the rider must pay atten- 
tion to his own position; he should sit quiet and 
supple, and not dangle hither and thither, espe- 
cially so at the end of his ride when he begins to get 
tired. It is a poor achievement for a strong rider 
to make a long ride in an incredibly short time, 
when, in so doing, he rides his horse to pieces; but 
the science of it consists in being able to judge, what 
he may demand of the animal, and in not going 
beyond the limits of possibility. 

Riding during the night should be avoided; 
during rest the horse should be provided with all 
attainable comforts. A long rest is preferable to 
several short ones. When, after a long ride, the 
horse is put up, he should be well groomed and cared 
for in every respect (see pages 58-67). 



Exercising and Longeing. 

"Stand-still and fat are the ivorst enemies of the 
horse " says an Arabian proverb. 

By examining the legs of a well-cared-for 
work-horse, they will, as a rule, — even in 
animals of rather advanced age, — appear to be 
normal, which is principally due to daily and 
regular exercise, taken most frequently in the open. 



— 257 — 

By this the muscles and sinews are kept elastic; 
the fat, which weighs upon the legs of the horse, 
is kept away and the whole of his inner organism is 
put into full activity. It is different with the well- 
fed private riding horse; he often stands still for 
days at a time, and when he is occasionally taken 
out of the stable, he is then to have "a thorough, 
good exercise." Great knowledge of horses is not 
required to be able to understand what such 
methods lead to; the limbs, which are loaded with 
the weight of the fat body and have become stif- 
fened from want of exercise, are easily overstrained, 
causing inflammation and subsequently chronic 
ulcers in the leg; for instance, wind-gall, spavin, 
splint, etc., may arise; but one does not always 
get off so easily, for the animal may by such 
unreasonable treatment often sustain serious 
internal injuries, from which it never recovers; in 
other words the strength of the horse and — what in 
this animal is so highly appreciated — his staying- 
power are broken forever. • 

The health and the working capacity of the 
horse depend on judicious and sufficient exercise 
together with strengthening, but not too fattening 
food; for this reason one should not listen to the 
advice of "ignorant" friends of the horse, by whom 
it is often considered as cruelty to animals to take 
the horse out from the suffocating air of the stable 
and from the well-provided manger more than once 
a day, even if it be no more than an hour, and when 
the horse does not look like a fattened pig ready for 
butchering. 

17 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 2 5 8 — 

If a sound and well-fed riding horse is to be 
kept "in good condition," he ought not to be with- 
out exercise any day, and never less than two 
hours per day, preferably the hours divided be- 
tween morning and afternoon and — if the condition 
of the roads and the weather are favourable — 
spent in the open. 

Not having time to exercise the horse oneself, 
it should, if possible, be done by an experienced 
rider. Having a groom, who is sufficiently conver- 
sant with riding and also conscientious enough to 
be trusted with the horse by himself, one is well off; 
but, even then, it may be of benefit to take some 
precautions, for instance, to have the groom ride 
on blanket and with snaffle and to provide the horse 
with boots; as a rule, a groom should not be al- 
lowed to exercise at any other paces than at a walk 
and trot. If the groom be not sufficiently experi- 
enced in riding, he should lead the horse when dis- 
mounted and at a walk (see pages 77-79); while 
so doing, care should be taken that the horse is led 
an equally long time to the right as to the left side ; 
in the riding-school the one leading the horse 
should always walk to the inner side. 

In case the horse feels good on account of 
standing still a long time, he should be ridden, as 
one is then more master of the animal than in 
leading it on foot, and is consequently more able 
to prevent it from making violent jumps and 
plunges which may injure its legs. If, under such 
circumstances, for one reason or another, the horse 
cannot be ridden, but has to be led by hand, it 



— 259 — 

should be done in a riding-school or in an enclosed 
place and at a time when things are quiet. As 
soon as the horse enters the place, he should be led 
towards one of the walls and be kept there during 
the whole time of exercising. If, during this, the 
horse is to be changed from one hand to the other, 
the person leading him places himself in front of 
the animal and tries cautiously to turn it on the 
forehand by directing its head towards the wall, 
while moving himself between the horse's head 
and the wall, thus getting over to the other side of 
the animal. Horses that rear or strike with their 
forelegs should not be turned in this manner, 
but by being led on a small circle in from the 
wall. 

Longeing means leading the horse on a long 
rein (longe) and with the aid of whip and voice. 
Ordinarily the horse is longed on a circle, while the 
person holding the longe remains in the centre or 
moves on a smaller circle, which is concentric to 
the one on which the horse is moving. Longeing, 
applied as a means of breaking, requires great skill 
in horsemanship and long practice, but as a means 
of exercising horses one may, if possessing com- 
posure, patience and a little handiness, easily 
attain the necessary accomplishment. Longeing 
should never be put in charge of persons who are 
utterly ignorant of it; for in such hands the longe 
becomes a dangerous implement, with which the 
horse is easily ruined. 

Horses that are wanton from long rest should 
not be exercised in longe; as the freedom of move- 



— 260 

ment, which the leading in longe allows, makes 
the animal more disposed to cut capers, which may- 
result in serious injuries to the legs. If, in such a 
case, longeing is used, it should be done with the 
horse well reined in, but then the longeing must 
be in the hands of a skilled trainer. 

As longeing, applied as means of breaking, 
would require a book to itself, I shall in the follow- 
ing only discuss it as a means of exercising. 

For the longeing of a quiet horse, there are 
only needed a halter with a ring at the back of 
the noseband in which to fasten the longe, a longe 
and a so-called longeing- whip. 

The longe should be made of the same kind 
of flat woollen web that is generally used for 
driving-reins; it should be about an inch broad 
and about nine yards long and provided with a 
buckle and leather strap in one end, or with a 
snap-hook; the other end should be made into a 
loop for holding; moreover, it is a good plan to 
have a few knots stitched on part of the longe, 
beginning from the loop, at distances of about 
14 inches, to provide a better grip in shortening 
the longe. 

The longeing-whip should have a light and 
flexible handle about 2 yards long and a cord with 
lash about 5 yards in length. 

For horses that are very spirited or of which 
the neck and head are to be held in correct car- 
riage during the longeing, the halter is replaced 
by a snaffle-bridle with two pairs of divided reins; 
there should also be two bearing-rings with straps, 



26l 

which are provided with holes for the purpose of 
buckling one to each side of the throatlatch. 

The longeing-girth should have a pad with a 
ring fastened on the middle and one on each side, 
the latter, each about 4 inches from the former. 
An ordinary surcingle may easily be thus arranged. 

After passing the upper pair of reins (bearing- 
reins) through the bearing-rings, one of them is 
passed through the middle ring of the girth and 
buckled to the other one, which is made somewhat 
shorter and provided with a buckle for this pur- 
pose. The lower pair of reins are fastened to the 
lower rings of the girth. By shortening and length- 
ening the reins, the raising of the neck and the 
bending of the head may be regulated. 

The longe, which should be fastened to the 
inner ring of the bit and underneath the reins , is first 
made quite short and is held, coiled up, together 
with the whip (the point of which is turned back- 
ward with its cord dragging along) in the inner 
hand, the arm hanging straight down, while the 
horse is led out on the circle by the outward hand 
holding the inner rein ; the horse being thus brought 
out upon the circle, the outward hand takes hold 
of the whip from behind the back and holds 
it with the point toward the inner side of the 
horse; then, moving himself little by little toward 
the centre of the • circle, the trainer lets out the 
longe, coil by coil, at the same time trying to 
urge the horse forward and keeping him on the 
circle by continually pointing the whip towards 
the middle of the horse. The person in charge of 



— 262 — 

the longe should, when in the centre, keep his 
inner foot on this spot and move the outward 
one forward, as the horse moves round on the 
circle. If the person is moving on a circle, he 
should always be on the same diameter as the 
horse. 

The point of the whip, held in the direction 
of the horse's inner hock-joint, urges the horse 
forward; by directing the point of the whip 
towards the horse's shoulder, he is urged outward. 
A more forcible use of the whip is produced by 
flinging the cord forward in one of these directions. 
The cord is flung forward by a movement of the 
wrist. The handle of the whip, with the point 
turned somewhat backward and downward, is 
held firmly by the thumb and the first finger, the 
hand slightly closed, the nails turned half upward, 
and the arm somewhat bent at the elbow; then, 
in throwing the point of the whip forward by 
bending the wrist, the other fingers are tightened, 
by which the forward movement of the point is 
checked and the cord runs straight out in the 
intended direction, generally with a slight crack. 
To bring the handle of the whip first forward and 
then backward, as is done by cabmen, is wrong. 

The longe is held in the inner hand by the 
thumb and the first finger, the position of the 
arm and the hand as in riding. Tensions upon 
the longe are made by imparting a wavy motion 
with the wrist, the wrist to be limber. 

The eyes of the person in charge of the longe 
should always be directed towards the animal's 



— 263 — 

eyes and ears, keeping his shoulders turned half 
way towards the horse or at a right angle to the 
length of the horse, in the former case by moving 
his inner shoulder back and the outer one forward. 

If the horse is to be started or the pace to 
be increased, the words, "March" "Trot" "Gal- 
lop" or "Fort" (faster) are spoken in a sharp and 
peremptory tone. If the movement is to cease, 'or 
the pace is to be slackened or is to be changed 
from a gallop into a trot, the words — "Halt" 
"Walk" "Slow" or " Trot" — are spoken in a slow 
and drawling tone. 

To quiet a fiery horse that rushes about 
wildly, the words, "Foal Foal or Hoi Hoi" are 
spoken soothingly ; if this has no effect, "Fy!" is 
shouted out sharply and threateningly while 
moving a little forward and towards the horse, at 
the same time throwing the inner hand suddenly 
up in the air (during which movement the longe 
is taken in the outer hand) . 

During the first longeings the voice should 
be assisted with signs from longe or whip. 



Transportation of Horses. 

In transporting horses, it is of the greatest 
importance to secure an experienced and reliable 
person to take charge of the animal and one who 
will carry out the orders given him. Moreover, 
it must be seen to that the horse is provided with 
everything necessary to ensure a successful journey. 



— 264 — 

During transportation of any kind, the horse 
should be provided with boots (see page 43) and 
knee-caps on the fore legs, a strong halter with a 
chain or rope (see Fig. 19, page 19), a horse-cloth 
(see page 57) and a surcingle. A separate bridle 
is unnecessary, as a snaffle-bit may be buckled to 
the rings on the sides of the halter by means of 
two loose straps. 

If the horse is to be ridden or led along the 
road, the shoeing and saddling should be strictly 
looked into; if necessary, interfering boots (see 
page 44) are put on. If the person in charge be 
unacquainted with the route, he should, if possible, 
try to obtain some information about the best 
places for rest at noon and at night beforehand; 
instruction should also be given for feeding on the 
way. In hot weather one should rest during the 
warmest part of the day; travelling at night 
should be avoided. Feeding is restricted to 
three times a day — in the morning before depart- 
ure, at noon, and in the evening after the arrival 
at night-quarters. Before the horse is put up, 
the stable should be examined. If the animal is 
ridden, the saddling should be examined frequently 
while on the road. 

In travelling by rail, injuries to the horse's 
tail, back of the thighs, and the points of the 
hocks may be prevented by supplying an ordinary 
four-bushel sack which is sewn together length- 
ways by three seams at equal distances, thus 
forming four separate bags, which are stuffed 
with straw and then fastened on the wall of the 



— 265 — 

car behind the horse. Plaiting straw into the 
tail is often done. The wagon-floor and the ramp 
should be covered with sand and straw. It is 
also necessary, during long journeys, to take along 
a pail for watering and feeding. 

Before entraining the horse, the car should be 
carefully examined to see if the bar, to which the 
animals are tied, is in order, and that the ventilating 
shutters may not knock to and fro while en route. 
The ramp must be examined to see if it is properly 
fastened and lies steady. If possible, a person 
should be placed on each side of the ramp to 
prevent the hind part of the horse from stepping 
aside. The man leading the horse into the car 
should go in front (see page 77). If the horse does 
not follow willingly, one may sometimes succeed 
in making him back into the car; but the surest 
way is to place a thick rope, held by two persons, 
behind the horse just above the hocks; when the 
horse stops or balks, a pressure from the rope 
forces him forward. When the horse is in the car, 
he is placed with his head in the direction in which 
the train is moving and in the middle of the space 
set apart for horses; then the bar is fastened and 
the horse tied with the rope quite short; the 
bridle (or the bit) is not taken off before the 
train has started and the animal proves to be 
quiet; during this the person in charge remains 
standing in front of the animal, holding it by the 
reins, and quieting it by caresses and soothing 
words, giving fodder from the hand. If the horse 
be very nervous, a strong rope should be placed 



— 266 — 

over his neck and fastened to the bar on each 
side, preventing him from raising his forehand, 
and placing the fore legs over the bar, or from 
knocking his head against the roof. 

If more than one horse is to be put in the 
same car, the first one should be placed along the 
wall opposite to the entrance, the other ones, in 
succession, by the side of the first. In this way 
both spaces of the car are filled; the heads of the 
horses are turned towards the middle of the car, 
and the most nervous animals with their heads 
in the direction in which the train is moving. 

The best cars for horses are those with parti- 
tions, i.e., a stall for each animal. A single horse 
should be placed in the middle stall. Usually 
the partition-walls are arranged to move on 
hinges placed on the short walls of the car. Before 
entraining, one or more of the partition-walls are 
thrown back towards the entrance, according to 
the breadth of the car and the number of animals 
to be shipped. When the horse is in his place, the 
partition-wall is bolted. 

In detraining, the same precautions are 
observed with regard to the ramp, etc., as in 
entraining. The horse being bridled, he is "loosed 
from the bar which is brought out of the car. 
With more than one horse, the one furthest from 
the entrance should be taken out first. In cars 
with partitions, these are opened and thrown back 
as the horses are taken out. 

While on the way, the horse is fed principally 
with hay from the hand. Oats and water are 



— 267 — 

given only when the journey is longer than one 
day and then during the longest stops which the 
train makes. 

The risk involved in transporting horses by 
water is far greater than it is by rail, because, in 
addition to the external injuries which the rolling 
of the ship may cause, the animal is subject to 
the risk of taking cold and to stoppage of the 
bowels — to say nothing of sea-sickness, which 
often kills a horse. 

On long sea voyages and when a heavy sea is 
to be feared, the horse should be placed in a 
strong and well padded stall, which may be 
constructed for the occasion, or be a shipping-box 
of separate parts put together, and in which the 
horse may be hoisted on board. As the padding 
of such boxes is usually too hard and scant, they 
should be provided at the front and back with a 
sack, stuffed and arranged as before mentioned. 
A strong rope, padded in the middle, is stretched 
just in front of the horse's withers from the one 
wall of the stall to the other, and a sling is put 
under his belly. The best position for a horse 
aboard ship is amidships, and so situated that the 
smell from the engine-room and galley is mini- 
mized and there is as little draught as possible. 
On sea voyages in particular, the horse should 
be well covered up; a tarpaulin placed over the 
stall will shelter him from draughts and sea-spray. 

If the horse is led on board, the same pre- 
cautions are taken as in entering a train. When 
hoisted on board in a sling, the sling must not be 



— 268 — 

detached as soon as the horse's feet touch the 
deck, but be kept under him for a while, until he 
stands firmly on his legs. 

In order to prevent stoppage of the bowels 
4% lbs. of bran should be given daily, otherwise 
hay is the principal fodder; 4 qts. of oats a day 
are sufficient, but the horse needs more water 
than when travelling by land. 

During long sea passages, the legs of the 
horse need rubbing at least two hours a day. 



Treatment of Sick Horses. 

As veterinary assistance cannot be obtained 
everywhere and at all times, all riders should 
know a little about the most ordinary ailments 
of the horse, their symptoms and the precautions 
to be taken against them. 

Diseases are called external or internal, ac- 
cording to their nature; as a.m. of c, the former 
are easier to understand as regards symptoms and 
treatment, I shall confine myself principally to 
them. 

Lameness is known by the horse not supporting 
himself evenly on all four legs, by which the pace 
becomes irregular. The first thing to do is to 
find out in which leg the horse is lame, next the 
cause of the lameness. 

In order to decide on which leg the animal 
limps, it is moved along at a walk and a slow trot. 
The leg upon which the horse leans most lightly 
and for shortest time is the lame one. If the horse 



— 269 — 

be lame on a fore leg, he throws his head upward 
when he treads upon the sore foot; in limping on 
a hind leg, he lowers his head when the lame foot 
is planted. If the lameness be considerable, it 
often shows itself when the horse is standing, as 
he will lean lightly or not at all on the affected 
leg. 

If the horse goes lame suddenly during riding, 
the lameness will often pass away after riding 
for a short time at a walk or by letting the horse 
stand still for a short while. If the lameness does 
not cease, or if it grows worse, one dismounts and 
examines the lame limb closely. Such examination 
should start with the under surface of the hoof 
and, if necessary, be continued upward all along 
the leg. 

If it be only a stone or the like which has 
stuck fast in the hoof, the lameness will, as a rule, 
cease when the object is removed. If some pointed 
object, such as a nail, has penetrated into the 
sensitive part of the hoof and the lameness does 
not cease when the object is drawn out, the shoe 
should be taken off, the hole made in the hoof 
cleansed and filled up with tow or cotton saturated 
with aloetic tincture, and the hoof placed in a 
bag filled with pieces of ice or sawdust wetted 
with cold water. When the shoe is replaced, no 
nail must be put near the sore place. 

When bruising of the sole of the foot happens, 
the sore place becomes apparent as a dark spot 
which arises from extravasation of blood or 
matter. By having the farrier pare the horn over 



— 270 — 

the diseased place and make an opening in the 
sole, the blood and matter will flow out, after 
which the same treatment is applied as in the case 
of pricking by a nail. Horses suffering from 
bruising or pricking of the foot will show pain 
when the sore spot is tapped with a hammer or 
pressed with pincers; such animals may, as a rule, 
be used after being treated as mentioned, when 
the shoe is so arranged as not to press the diseased 
place. 

Thrush means that the frog of the hoof decays, 
becomes soft and shreddy and secretes a gray mal- 
odorous humour. The disease is generally caused 
by dirt coupled with want of exercise. By washing 
with a solution of carbolic acid, and afterward 
filling the furrows of the frog with oakum or 
tow, the latter being saturated with carbolic 
alcohol (1 part of carbolic acid with 10 parts of 
alcohol), the disease may be cured. 

Among other diseases most frequently found 
in the hoof may' be mentioned hoof -fissure , that 
is, a crack in the wall from the edge upward or 
from the coronet downward; and cavity under 
the walls, that is, a hollowness underneath the 
external crust. By proper shoeing the evil may 
be partly remedied and the animal made fit for 
use. 

Founder is an inflammation in the quick 
of the foot which becomes very warm and sore. 
The animal stretches its legs forward and rests 
on the quarters. Very frequently the cause is 
overfeeding or drinking too much cold water when 



— 271 — 

the horse is exerted and warm. The patient should 
be placed on soft, cold and moist ground, be fed 
only with hay, and be given water with the chill 
off. The shoes must not be taken off immediately. 
Ring-bone is a bony enlargement in front of 
and at the sides of the coronet ; it is due to inflam- 
mation in the coronary-joint, from which exos- 
tosis form around the coronet. The treatment 
should be the same as in the case of spavin. 

Grease appears at the back of the pastern 
and fetlock and shows itself in the shape of vesicles, 
cracks or ulcers from which a malodorous humour 
flows and which forms scabs. It is most frequently 
caused by uncleanliness, dampness and cold, or 
by having the fetlock clipped, thus exposing the 
back of the pastern to slush from sloppy roads. 
To prevent the disease, the pastern is kept clean 
and dry, the use of peat moss for bedding has also 
proved effective. The treatment of grease consists 
in washing the diseased place with lukewarm soap- 
suds, then rinsing and wiping it well off and 
rubbing with oil or cerate, added to a little carbolic 
acid. Iodine ointment is also frequently used. 
To prevent the recurrence of the disease, the same 
treatment should be given every time the horse 
is taken out on dirty and wet roads. 

Wind-gall, which is an inflammation in the 
fetlock joint or in the sheath of the tendon at 
the lowest part of the shank, shows itself as soft 
swellings full of humour and which in time may 
turn hard as bone. If wind-gall does not appear 
to a great extent, the animal rarely goes lame 



— 272 — 

from it. Massage (see page 64) or bandaging 
(seepages 65 and 66) is the best way to prevent 
and remove the disorder. If the horse is not 
lame, wind-gall will increase rather than diminish 
by too much rest. 

Inflammation of the tendinous tissues appears 
as swelling, soreness and heat in the back tendons; 
it is easily discovered by passing the finger tips 
lightly along the tendons. The disease is due to 
overwork, strains or blows. By complete rest 
with massage and cooling fomentations, the evil 
may be removed. A compound of % alcohol 
and % vinegar with J of water may be used as 
a fomentation having a discutient effect. 

Splint is the name of a bony enlargement of 
the canon bones; it arises from inflammation in 
the periosteum (periostitis), caused by blows or 
kicks. On the inside of the shank it is, as a rule, 
due to the fact that the horse knocks one leg 
against the other while in motion. By the imme- 
diate use of cooling fomentations and massage, 
the formation of splint may be prevented. If, 
on the other hand, the splint is fully developed 
but not too old, an acrid ointment (1 part of 
biniodide of mercury with 10 parts of purified 
fat) may be applied. After the hair has been 
clipped off, the splint is rubbed for about 10 min- 
utes with the ointment. In case the horse does not 
walk lame, he may be used if the following treat- 
ment is carried out: The splint is rubbed once a 
day on two consecutive days; during the next 
six days no rubbing is applied, after which the 



— 273 — 

treatment is repeated on two consecutive days, 
and it is thus continued, until the splint is com- 
pletely removed. In order to prevent the acrid 
ointment from flowing down on the leg, it is oiled 
below the diseased place. When the horse is in 
use, "shin-boots" should be used. 

Malanders is situated at the back of the knee 
and in front of the hock. The signs, the cause, and 
the treatment of the disease are the same as for 
grease. 

Spavin (bone-spavin) is an exostosis caused 
by inflammation in the hock joint, sometimes 
called spavin-protuberance. If the inflammation 
cannot be checked, it will most frequently result 
in a symphysis of the small bones of the hock. 
Bone-spavin is situated on the inside of the hock 
joint and is felt as unevenness, when passing 
the fingers along the inside of the hock joint. 
The lower down on the joint the spavin is situated, 
the less serious it is. In most cases the cause of 
the disease is over-exertion, but it may also be 
due to heredity. Not being sure whether the 
horse be spavined or not, he is put to the so-called 
spavin-test, which is carried out by taking hold 
of the shank and lifting it forward in a way that 
the hock joint is bent forcibly; in this position 
the leg is kept 2 or 3 minutes and is then dropped, 
after which the horse is immediately put into a 
trot. If it be spavin, the animal will, during the 
first few steps, show considerably more lameness 
than before. The inflammation being discovered 
at its very beginning, it may be removed by 

18 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 274 — 

cooling fomentations and rest. Recently formed 
spavin-protuberances may be removed by rubbing 
with acrid ointments. Old spavin is incurable. 

Bog-spavin is a soft tumour on the front and 
inner part of the hock joint; as a rule, it does not 
prevent the use of the horse. 

Curb is a hard protuberance at the back of 
the hock about 2>^ inches below the point of 
the hock. On aged horses, curb is generally of 
no consequence. 

Jardes are exostosises on the outside of the 
hock; they do not interfere with the horse's useful 
ness, but are unsightly. 

Capped hock is a swelling on the point of the 
hock, generally caused by blows or knocks, which 
the horse may either have inflicted upon himself 
or may have contracted during transportation 
by rail or by ship. As long as the inflammation 
lasts, cooling fomentations are applied. The 
swelling not being warm, discutient salve is 
applied. Capped hock rarely causes lameness. 

Capped elbow is a swelling on the point of the 
elbow, generally caused by pressure of the shoe or 
of the hoof when the animal lies down with its 
knee much bent. This tumour being soft and 
warm, cooling remedies are applied, but if it is 
cold and hard, it should be fomented with spirit 
of soap or rubbed with green soap. If the swelling 
breaks, it should be kept open by stuffing the 
hole with tow or the like until the substance of the 
tumour is evacuated. In order to prevent capped 
elbow from re-forming, a thick padded leather ring 



— 275 — 

should be placed about the pastern, by which the 
hoof (or the shoe) is prevented from touching the 
elbow when the animal lies down. Instead of 
such a ring about the pastern, a pad well stuffed 
with straw may be placed underneath the animal's 
chest and fastened with a broad strap across its 
back; in adding a breast-plate, the pad is kept 
close to the elbow. 

Capped hock and capped elbow may, at their 
very beginning, be removed by rubbing with clay- 
silt (clay mixed with vinegar or Goulard's extract), 
which is left on until it drys. 

A condition, found not infrequently in riding 
horses, is the so-called knuckling over; that is a 
sprain or wrong bending of the fetlock-joint, 
caused by the horse making a false step or by 
being pulled up too suddenly and, perhaps, in a 
wrong manner. Slight knuckling over does not, 
as a rule, cause any lameness, at any rate not of 
longer continuance than will pass away by riding 
at a walk or by making a stop for a while. If 
the horse, after knuckling over, does not lower 
the fetlock properly and if it be warm and sore, 
a bandage is put tightly around the joint and 
constantly soaked with cold water. 

If the horse has swellings or bruises caused by 
any part of the saddlery, he is said to be galled. 
Swellings are treated with cooling remedies, for 
instance, fresh cut green turf, which is placed with 
the grassy side on the swelling and constantly 
soaked with cold water. Bruises are cleansed 
with a solution of carbolic acid and smeared with 



— 276 — 

zinc-salve or cerate prepared with carbolic acid 
(or carbolic oil). The gall being caused by wrong 
saddling or by defects in the saddlery, the defect 
should be adjusted and, if the horse must be used, 
a strip of linen soaked in melted tallow is placed 
on the injured place. Galls on the withers are 
among the most serious and are slow in healing. 
In wounds that are only bleeding slightly, the 
bleeding may be staunched with cold water, snow 
or vinegar. The wound should be cleansed and 
disinfected by syringing with solution of carbolic 
acid (or of sublimate) and be smeared with carbolic 
oil (or iodic powder), after which the edges of 
the wound are pressed well together and a dressing 
is put on. If a wound is bleeding profusely and is 
deep a wad of clean tow, immersed in cold water 
and vinegar, may be pressed firmly into the 
wound; the bleeding not decreasing, more tow is 
put on, while constantly fomenting with cold 
water until the bleeding is stopped, after which, 
if possible, a bandage is put on. Being sure that 
the bleeding is arrested, the bandage may be 
taken off, the wound cleansed, disinfected and 
stitched up. Deep wounds in the joints must be im- 
mediately stopped up and bandaged, as it is very 
dangerous to expose such wounds to the influence 
of the atmosphere for any length of time. 

Internal diseases disclose themselves most 
frequently by certain external symptoms, as, for 
instance, drooping of the head, of the ears and of 
the under lip, dim and half-closed eyes, pinched 
together nostrils and roughness of the coat. 



— *77 — 

Amongst other symptoms of internal diseases may 
be mentioned: want of appetite, much thirst, 
short and rapid breathing, discharge from the 
nostrils with their mucous membrane yellowish 
or very dark red, profuse sweating, abnormal 
droppings, obstruction, frequent passing of water, 
etc. In such cases and until veterinary aid can be 
obtained, the following measures of precaution 
are taken: the quantity of fodder is lessened, 
especially oats, the drinking water is given with 
the chill off, plenty of straw for bedding, rubbing 
with wisps of straw and covering the horse well. 

Colic is a sickness that every rider should 
know about; it arises suddenly, progresses quickly, 
and must be attended to speedily, otherwise it 
may prove fatal. The most ordinary causes of the 
ailment are bad food, overfeeding, especially 
when the animal is much exerted, change of food, 
and sudden exposure; cold drink, when the horse 
is warm, may also cause colic. Horses may have 
more or less tendency to this trouble on account of 
the digestive organs being out of order; horses 
that are windsuckers are particularly disposed to 
this ailment. The external symptoms of the 
sickness become apparent in the animal getting 
suddenly restless, wanting to lie down and imme- 
diately springing to its feet again or rolling over 
on its back, in placing all four legs in under itself, 
pawing with the fore feet, kicking itself under the 
belly with the hind feet, whipping the tail, looking 
back towards the belly and biting itself at the 
skin of the belly. Besides treating the animal as 



— 278 — 

prescribed for internal diseases in general, it 
should be well rubbed with wisps of straw under 
the belly and be moved at a walk and at a slow 
trot without making it warm. As a remedy, 
give 0.28 ounce of chlorat bar y cum dissolved in 
3 qts. of water with the chill off. If there is no 
relief within a short time, an injection of oil and 
warm water should be given. For some time 
after recovering from colic, measures of precaution 
should be taken in the feeding of the horse. 

The pulse of the horse may be felt in the 
easiest way at the inside of the lower jaw, near 
the jowl, by placing the first and middle finger on 
the inside of the jaw, the thumb on the outside. 
If the glands at the throttle be swollen, the pulse 
should be felt at the temple or at the elbow. In a 
healthy and full-grown horse, the average pulsation 
is from 32 to 40 per minute; in stallions from 28 
to 30. 

The temperature of the horse is taken by a 
thermometer, which is put into the rectum and 
left there for 3 minutes. The normal temperature 
is about ioo° F. 

The normal respiration of the horse is from 
10 to 12 per minute. 



Quadrille Riding. 

When the various figures and exercises, which 
have been taught in school-riding, are performed 
by several riders in pairs and in a class, they are 
called quadrille riding. Such riding should be 



— 279 — 

performed at the collected paces but so that march- 
ing up, forming line and changing of places are 
done at a faster pace. An even pace with precision 
in the performance of figures and exercises gives 
elegance to this kind of riding, which is still 
further enhanced by ladies taking part in it and 
when ridden to music. Quadrille riding may be 
performed at the sides of the school as well as on 
the great circle or on both. The distance between 
the horses should be arranged according to the 
number of riders and the size of the school. 

The following very easy figures are examples: 

1. An equal number of pairs of riders are 
arranged in line at one of the short sides of the 
school, facing the other short side, the ladies to 
the left and the gentlemen to the right of the 
middle-line (see page 128), and with a distance of 
1 step between the horses. 

Words of command: 
[3~i. "Salute!" 

' ' All salute. Ladies with the tops of their 
whips to their hats; gentlemen taking their hats 
off down to their right sides, their right arms 
perpendicular. ( 3 ; i 

2. "Advance by Twos, from the middle (and 
the pace) — March! ' ' 

\ ' The middle pair moves straight forward; the 
others move, one by one, simultaneously from 
both sides of the leading pair and half turn to 
the right and left towards the middle-line, where 
they continue at a horse's length from the pair 
in front and straight behind the one leading. 



— 28o — 

3. "Leading Pair, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when the leading pair has advanced 
to the short side of the school, and by parting in 
turning right and left and continuing, one by one, 
along the sides of the school; thus pair by pair 
follpw. 

4. "In T ravers, Right and Left, Half Turn — 
March!" 

The riders in the rear having passed the 
first corners, all move their horses by a half turn 
and in travers parallel to the long side of the 
school until meeting each other at the middle-line, 
whereupon they ride by pairs straight ahead. 

5. "Leading Pair, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed the same as no. 3. 

6. "Long — Passade!" (See page 180.) 
Performed when both the leading riders have 

passed the long sides of the school. 

7 . " Long — Passade! ' ' 

Performed when both the leading riders — 
after the first passade, and after having advanced 
at the long side of the school — have reached the 
corners. 

8 . " Great circle— March! ' ' 

Performed when both the leading riders — 
immediately after the passade — have reached the 
"marks" of the great circle situated opposite to 
each other (the great circle touching the short 
side) . The riders to the left hand keeping a little 
inside the track of the great circle, thus passing 



— 28l — 

with the right side towards the riders moving to 
the right hand. 

9. "Chain!" 

Performed while on the great circle by alter- 
nately turning the right and the left side towards 
each other, the leading riders beginning with the 
right side towards each other. 

10. " The Chain Ceases!" 

Riding on the great circle is resumed in the 
manner described in no. 8. 

11. "Straight on, Turn Across the School — 
March!" 

Performed when both front riders are by the 
"marks" of the great circle at the long sides. The 
central point of the school is first passed by the 
rider in front coming from the left hand and then 
alternately by one from the right and one from 
the left hand. 

12. "Leading Riders, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when both front riders, after 
having passed across the school, have advanced to 
the middle of the short side, whereupon they ride 
by pairs along the middle line of the school. 

13. " Circle Right and Left — March! ' ' 
Performed when all the pairs are on the 

middle-line; those on the right side making a 
small circle to the right and those on the left side 
to the left. 

14. "Change!" 

Performed when, in accomplishing the small 
circle, all are oblique to the right or to the left of 



— 282 — 

the middle-line; when, meeting each other, they 
ride by pairs straight along the middle-line. 

15. "Circle Right and Left — March!" 
Performed before the front pair has reached 

the short side and otherwise the same as no. 13. 

16. "Change!" 
Same as no. 14. 

17. "By Pairs, Alternately Right and Left 
Turn — March!" 

Performed when the leading pair has advanced 
to the short side of the school, the front pair turn- 
ing to the right, the next one to the left, etc., then 
moving along the sides of the school, the front 
pairs keeping abreast of each other. 

18. "Leading Pairs, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when, after the foregoing exercise, 
both front pairs have passed the long sides and 
have advanced to the middle of the short side. In 
this manner, two pairs ride side by side along the 
middle-line, thus forming lines of four. 

19. "By Pairs, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when the front pairs have advanced 
to the short side. Pairs on the right side turn 
to the right and those on the left side to the left, 
all moving along the sides of the school. 

20. "Even Pairs, Left Half Turn — March!" 
Performed when the pairs are at the long 

sides. Second, fourth, etc., pair turn half to the 
left, thus moving obliquely across the school 



— 283 — 

towards the opposite long side, where they resume 
their places behind first, third, etc., pair. 

21. " Leading Pair, Right Turn — March! ' ' 
Performed when the front pair has advanced 

to the middle of the short side. 

22. "Right and Left Form Line — March!" 
Performed when, after having accomplished 

no. 21, all the pairs are on the middle-line. The 
front pair continues moving at a walk or goes into 
a walk, if the pace be a faster one; riders on the 
right side ride at the extended gallop and, in half 
turning to the right, form in line with the front 
pair, and pass into a walk. Those on the left 
side do the same to the left. 

23. "Halt!" 

When the line is formed. 

24. "Salute!" 
Same as no. 1. 

II. Christmas tree quadrille. 

In the centre of each great circle (the circles 
touching the short sides) a high fir tree is placed 
with a solid foundation, trimmed like a Christmas 
tree and hung round with small presents at a 
suitable distance from the ground, and without 
candles on the lower limbs. 

An equal number of pairs of riders are arranged 
in the same manner as described in I. Pairs of 
riders, moving along the middle-line, part in 
passing the trees in a half small circle, each on 
their side of the tree. In meeting, the riders pass 
each other with the right side towards each other. 
When single riders pass the trees along the middle- 



— 284 — 

line, it is performed in a half small circle with the 
right side towards the trees. The ladies wear 
bows of silk ribbon on their right shoulders, and 
the gentlemen on their left shoulders, each pair 
wearing a different colour. The riders may also 
carry on their right hip a bag with bandoleer 
over the left shoulder, both being of the same 
colour as the bow. The bags are intended to hold 
the presents that may be snatched from the trees. 

Words of command: 

i. "Salute!" 

Performed the same as I, no. i. 

2. "Advance by Single Riders from Right 
and Left, Short Trot — March!" 

The riders trot, one by one, simultaneously 
from both flanks and half turn to the right or 
left, with a horse's length between each other on 
each long side of the school. 

3. "Leading Riders, Left and Right Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when the front riders meet at the 
middle of the next short side, whereupon they 
ride by pairs along the middle-line and pass the 
trees. 

4. "Leading Pair, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed when the front pair, having passed 
"the middle-line, is by the short side of the school, 
where the pairs part, then moving, one by one, 
along the sides. 

5. " Turn Across the School — March!" 
Performed when, after the foregoing turn, 



— 285 — 

the riders have passed the first corner of the 
school. The central point of the school is passed 
same as I, no. n. 

6. "Leading Riders, Left and Right Turn — 
March!" 

Performed same as no. 3. 

7. "Leading Pair, Right and Left Turn — 
March!" 

Performed same as no. 4. 

8. "Ladies, Great Circle — March!" 
Performed when, after the foregoing turn, 

the leading lady is by the "mark" of the first 
great circle at the long side. The gentlemen 
continue riding along the other long side of the 
school. 

9. "Gentlemen, Great Circle — March!" 
Performed when the leading gentleman has 

reached the "mark" of the other great circle by 
the other long side. 

10. "Diminish the Circle — March!" 

All the riders move their horses towards the 
trees and try to snatch the presents from them, 
keeping distance and pace. 

11. " Half Circle—March! ' ' 

All ride a half circle out to the track of the 
great circle, by which they all come over to the 
other hand, when the former front rider will be in 
the rear. 

12. "Diminish the Circle — March!" 
Like no. 10. 

13. " Half Circle— March! ' ' 
Same as no. 11. 



— 286 — 

14- "Straight on, Leading Riders, Right and 
Left Turn — March!" 

Performed by both front riders at the same 
time and from the middle of the short sides. All 
ride along the middle-line with the right side 
towards the trees and towards each other. 

15. ''Leading Riders, Diminished Circle — 
March!" 

Performed by the front riders, after having 
passed one of the trees, riding a "diminished" 
circle to the right around the other tree. The 
other riders follow the front rider, and the presents 
are again snatched from the trees. 

16. "Half Circle— March!" 
Same as no. 11. 

17. "Straight on, Leading Riders, Left Turn — 
March!" 

Like no. 14, only the turn is made to the same 
(left) side by both parties. 

18. "Leading Riders, Diminished Circle — 
March!" 

Like no. 15 but not round the same tree. 

19. " Half Circle— March! ' * 
Same as no. 11. 

20. "Gallop— March!" (Middle speed.) 

21. "Straight on, Turn Across the School — 
March!" 

Is performed at the same time by both front 
riders and from the "marks" of the great circles 
on the opposite long sides. Riders pass with the 
right side towards each other. 

22. " Jeu de Barre!" 



— 287 — 

The gentlemen ride in a faster gallop up to 
the inner side of their ladies and try to take the 
bows off their shoulders; when they succeed in 
doing this, they keep by the side of their ladies. 

23. "Leading Pair, Right Turn — March!" 
Performed when the front pair is at the middle 

of the short side. 

24. "Right and Left, Form Line — March!" 
Performed when the front pair has passed the 

first tree and then falls into a walk. Riders on the 
right side (gentlemen) ride in a faster gallop the 
shortest way up in the line. Those on the left 
(ladies) do the same. Then all take the same pace 
as the front riders. 

25. "Halt!" 

In the middle of the ring. 

26. "Salute!" 
Same as no. 1. 

There may be introduced in this quadrille 
still another figure, by having ladies and gentlemen 
ride a "half circle," each from their track of the 
great circles, towards the trees, thereby all moving 
on the diminished great circle, from whence the 
track of the great circle may be resumed at the 
command, " Enlarge the Circle — March!" (seepage 
187). The same is repeated to the other hand. At 
a collected gallop with changing a tempo, this 
figure looks well, but it requires accomplished 
riders and well schooled horses. 

This quadrille may be performed without 
the Christmas trees, if the centres of the great 



— 288 — 

circles be marked, for instance, by poles with flags 
attached to them. 

III. Quadrille on the great circle is performed 
either by 4 pairs or by 4 single riders. 

With 4 single riders, 2 being ladies and 2 
gentlemen, they should be placed on the middle 
line in file at a distance of 1 step, the rider in the 
rear having the hind feet of his horse on the track 
by the short side of the school. The riders are 
numbered from the front, No. 1 being a lady, No. 
2 a gentleman, etc. 

Those figures which are not performed singly 
or by all four at the same time, but by each pair 
vis-a-vis separately, should always be commenced 
by the odd numbered pair (1 and 3). 

Words of command: 

1 . " Short Trot— March! ' ' 

2. " Leading Rider, Right Turn, Great Circle — 
March!" 

Performed when the leading rider has reached 
the short side of the school. 

3 . " Take your Places! ' ' 

Performed when rider No. 1 has ridden once 
round on the great circle. Rider No. 4 halts with 
the horse's hind feet on the "mark" of the great 
circle by the short side of the school, No. 3 in the 
same manner on the next "mark," No. 2 on the 
next, etc. 

4. "Face!" 

All turn their horses on the haunches until 
vis-a-vis partners are facing each other. 

5. "Vis-a-Vis, Salute!" 



— 289 — 

All ride at a walk straight forward towards 
the centre, halt and salute when at a horse's 
length distance between the heads of the horses. 
Having performed the salute, all back their horses 
simultaneously to their places. 

6. "Vis-a-Vis Change Places!'' 

Riders No. 1 and 3 put their horses simul- 
taneously on the short gallop left and ride with 
their left side turned towards each other across 
the circle, each halting on the other one's place, 
and turning the horse on his haunches to the left, 
again facing each other, when the same is per- 
formed by Nos. 2 and 4. In the same order and 
manner, the figure is then repeated at the gallop 
i right with the right side towards each other and by 
i turning to the right, thus every one resuming his 
• (or her) original place. 

7. "On the Circle to the Right, Short Trot — 
March!" 

All make yi turn on the haunches to the left 
I and pass into a short trot. 

8 . ' ' Diminish the Circle — March! ' ' 

(See page 186.) On the diminished circle 
I the distance between the horses should be a horse's 
length. 

9. "Right about— March!" 

All make y 2 right turn on the haunches, 
j change the bend of the horse and continue at a 
I short trot on the diminished circle to the other 
! hand. 

10. "Left about — March!" 
Same as no. 9. 

19 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 290 — 

ii. ' ' Enlarge the Circle — March! ' ' 
(See page 187.) In reaching the track of the 
great circle, the distance between the riders will 
be the same as before the diminishing of the circle. 

12. " Resume your Places! ' ' 

All halt at their "marks" (see no. 3). 

13. "Face!" 
Same as no. 4. 

14. "Vis-a-Vis Half Circle about Centre, 
Short Gallop— March!" 3 1 

Riders No. 1 and 3 make 34 turn on the 
haunches to the right — from this position putting 
their horses on the gallop left — ride with their 
left side turned towards each other a half small 
circle about the centre, and return to their original 
places, where "Halt" and "Face" are made (see 
no. 6). Then the same is performed by Nos. 2 
and 4. In the same order and manner, the figure 
is then repeated at the gallop right. 

15. "On the Circle to the Right, Short Trot — 
March!" 

Same as no. 7. 

16. "Circle— March!" 

Performed when all are at their "marks" 
(otherwise see pages 188 and 189). 

17. " Circle — March! Change! ' ' 
Performed when all are at their "marks" 

(otherwise see pages 189 and 190). 

18. "Circle— March!" 
Same as no. 16. 

19. " Circle — March! Change! ' ' 
Same as no. 17. 



— 291 — 

In changing from small circles made from 
the track of the great circle, the horses are directed 
towards the corners of a square, in which the 
great circle might have been inscribed, the sides 
of the school partly forming the square. 

20. " Resume your Places." 

Same as no. 12. 

91. "Face!" 

Same as no. 4. 

22. " Serpentine! ' ' 

Performed at the short gallop. Rider No. 1 
makes }/% turn on the haunches to the right, and 
rides at the gallop left in front of and past No. 2, 
then changes the gallop and rides at the back of 
No. 3, who has advanced half a horse's length from 
the track of the great circle while No. 1 passes. 
When No. 1 has passed behind her vis-a-vis, the 
gallop is again changed and, after passing in 
front of No. 4, "Resume your Place" and "Face" 
are performed. Then the same figure is performed 
in numerical order and in the same manner by the 
others. 

23. "On the Circle to the Right, Short Gallop — 
March!" 

Performed the same as no. 7, but at the 
gallop. 

24. ' ' Vis-a-Vis Change Places! ' ' 

Riders No. 1 and 3 ride the shortest way 
across the great circle at a faster pace, with the 
right side turned towards each other and towards 
the centre, each taking the other one's place, where 



— 292 — 

the original pace is resumed; the same is then 
performed by Nos. 2 and 4. 

25. " Right about — March! ' ' 

All halt, make }4 right turn on the haunches 
and change the gallop. 

26. ''Vis-a-vis Change Places!" 
Performed same as no. 24, but to the other 

hand. 

27. " Resume your Places! ' ' 
Same as no. 12. 

28. "Face!" 
Same as no. 4. 

29. " V is- a- Vis Salute! ' ' 
Same as no. 5. 

30. "On the Circle to the Left, Short Gallop — 
March!" 

Performed the same as no. 23, but the turn 
on the haunches is made to the right. 

31. "Double!" 

The ladies (Nos. 1 and 3) ride at a faster 
pace up to the inner side of the gentlemen (Nos. 
2 and 4). 

32. "Double!" 

Riders No. 1 and 2 ride at a faster pace up to 
the inner side of Nos. 3 and 4. 

During the doubling, the pace is increased 
sufficiently at the outer flank to allow the inner 
one to maintain the original pace (short gallop). 

33. "Advance by Single Riders from Right, 
Extended Gallop — March! ' ' 

Rider No. 4 advances at the extended gallop 
on the track of the great circle; when No. 4 has 



— 2 93 — 

passed the others by % circle (in the meanwhile 
the latter moving with their outer flank towards 
the track of the great circle) No. 3 and the other 
riders in succession go into the extended gallop, 
until all are on the track with intervals of % circle. 

34. " Short Gallop— March! ' ' 

35. " Left about— March! ' ' 

All halt, make yi left turn on the haunches, 
and change the gallop. 

36. "Double!" 

The gentlemen (Nos. 2 and 4) ride at a faster 
pace up to the inner side of the ladies (Nos. 1 
and 3). 

37. "Double!" 

Riders Nos. 3 and 4 ride at a faster pace up to 
the inner side of Nos. 1 and 2. 

38. "Advance by Single Riders from Left, 
Extended Gallop — March!" 

Performed same as no. 33, but beginning 
with Rider No. 1. 

39. " Short Gallop— March! " 

40. "Left Form Line, Leading Rider Right 
Turn — March! ' ' 

The line is formed as described on page 131, but 
facing the short side of the school, the centre of 
the great circle being between Riders Nos. 2 and 
3, and with 1 step distance between the horses. 

41. "Halt!" 

When Rider No. 1 is abreast of the centre. 

42. "Salute!" 

All salute, making their horses perform a 
pesade (see page 157). 



— 294 — 




Fig. 6 1. 

ELIZABETH, THE LATE EMPRESS OF AUSTRIA. 

A Model Horsewoman. 



Ladies' Riding. 

As riding in a side-saddle may be understood 
from what has been written here about riding 
astride, I shall, with regard to the former, discuss 
only what every rider should know in order to be 
able to lend assistance and a little guidance to 
ladies, when riding in their company — taking it for 
granted that the lady is conversant with riding, 
and mounted on a horse broken to side-saddle. 



— 295 — 

A lady's dress for riding requires much care 
and attention. There is scarcely anything that 
contributes so much in spoiling a riding lesson, 
or the pleasure of a ride with ladies, as derange- 
ments of dress. 

Riding apparel should be simple and com- 
fortable without any trimming of feathers, bows, 
braids, ornaments,* etc. The habit should be 
made of a suitable dark cloth. The bodice, with 
a low upright collar, may be buttoned all the way 
up to the neck, or with a lay-down collar, it may 
be buttoned so as to leave an opening for a shirt- 
front. The sleeves should be without puffs at 
the shoulders, regardless of fashion. In case shirt- 
collar and cuffs are used, they should be white. 
The length of the skirt should be so as just to 
cover the left foot of the rider when on horseback, 
the skirt itself being of the safety type. Two 
elastic loops are fastened on the inside of the 
skirt and in a manner that they may each be 
slipped on a foot, but not at the heel, in order to 
prevent the skirt from working up during riding. 
The bodice is fastened to the skirt by hooks and 
eyes or, better still, by a strap with button-holes at 
the back of the bodice, and corresponding buttons 
on the skirt. No other skirts should be worn while 
riding. 

Stiff stays should not be used, an ordinary 
slip-body, the so-called sanitary stays or the 
rubber corset are preferable. At any rate, this 

* A small veil on the hat and at the neck a small brooch in the 
shape of a horseshoe or the like should be the only ones. 



— 296 — 

article of dress must not reach too far below the 
hips, or it may cause much discomfort. 

The riding pants should be made of dark 
elastic material and tight-fitting. Riding boots, 
their tops reaching midway up the calf and with or 
without a spur buckled on the outside of the left 
heel, are preferable to ordinary walking boots, which 
must, at all events, for riding be without buttons. 

Black silk hat, a Derby or jockey-cap of the 
same colour as the habit are the most practical 
and most becoming head coverings; as a rule, they 
are fastened with a narrow elastic band under the 
hair at the back of the neck. 

The hair should be well fastened, for which 
purpose bands of the same colour as the hair are 
used instead of hair pins. If the hair cannot be 
fastened properly, it is better to leave it loose, 
particularly so during the first lessons, when 
appearance must give way to what is most prac- 
tical. 

The gloves must not be tight, and should be 
made of buckskin or dogskin. 

The riding-whip (the lady's right leg) should 
be sufficiently long, and neither too thin nor too 
pliable, because it would then not be able to pro- 
duce a pressure like that of the leg, and if no 
influence can be exerted on the horse by the whip, 
unless by striking him, the animal will become 
nervous and afraid of the whip, which a lady's 
riding horse must not be. Besides, a constant use 
of the whip in this manner does not look well. 
Consequently, those lady's light riding whips, 



— 297 — 

which are usually sold, are not at all fit for lady's 
riding. 

Pins and long hat-pins, on which, while 
mounting and dismounting, the person in attend- 
ance may tear his hands or get his eyes put out, 
should not be found in a lady's riding apparel. 

A lady's riding horse should in every respect 
be as nearly faultless as possible (see pages 8-10). 

The lady's position on horseback, with the 
considerable length of the side saddle, require 
that the horse should have a well-marked portage 
for the saddle, a not too short back, sure and not 
too low movements of the fore legs, and easy 
gaits. The horse should also have no bad habits 
(see page 231, III), but a lively temper and be 
well schooled; his mouth should not be too sensi- 
tive, that is, a lady's horse must never be behind 
the bit (see page 99), and must readily obey every 
influence of the rider's leg, whip and weight. 

The side-saddle would neither put horse owners 
in such fear, nor be so often a hindrance to ladies' 
riding, if more attention were paid to the con- 
venience of the horse and — pardon me, ladies — 
a little less to the convenience of the rider ; because 
the galls, unfortunately too often caused by side 
saddles, would then virtually be avoided. It does 
not follow, however, that a lady may be placed in 
any saddle, simply because it fits the horse ; on the 
contrary, side saddles should be adapted to the 
individual to a much higher degree than cross- 
saddles. 

On the other hand, the side saddle should 



— 298 — 

fit the horse still more precisely than the cross- 
saddle. Thus, on horses with sharp and prominent 
withers and backbone, saddles with broad and low 
gullet should not be used; for even if the under 




Fig. 62. 



part of the pommel does not touch those parts of 
the animal, the saddle may, nevertheless, during 
riding, easily cause galls by sliding from one side 
to the other. The saddle panel (see page 39) 



— 299 — 

should be made somewhat thicker on the right 
side of the pommel than on the left, which may 
either be done while the saddle is new or with 
more stuffing after it has been pressed together 
by use, because the weight of the lady's right leg 
makes the burden heavier on the left side of the 
pommel, by which the panel at the right side is 
pressed against the right side of the withers, 
causing the stuffing on this side to be pressed 
together and to become thinner. At the cantle 
under the seat, the panel should be made thicker 
on the left side on account of the lady's tendency 
to lean over to this side. In paying proper atten- 
tion to these details during the use of a new 
saddle and as long as the stuffing has not yet 
settled, saddle galls, otherwise easily caused, may 
often be avoided; it also enables the rider to keep 
an equally balanced seat in the saddle more easily. 

The best and safest lady's Park saddle is 
the one with improved level seat, all-over hogskin, 
with buckskin eave in seat and heads, on French 
cut back tree, and two hole socket {Fig. 62). 
The seat of the saddle should be spacious and its 
length in proportion to the height of the rider.* 
The stirrup-leather being so arranged as to enable 
the lady to assist herself in shortening or length- 
ening it at the right side of the saddle, it must be 
observed that the leather, which, thus arranged, 



* The length from the fore-side of the upper head to the 
cantle of the seat should be about % inch more than the 
distance from the lady's back line to the genuflection of her 
right leg, when the back is kept vertical and the'right thigh 
horizontal. 



— 300 — 

has to pass under the belly of the horse, does not 
gall the animal at the back of the fore legs (elbow) , 
which* very often happens. To the lady's saddle 
belongs the safety stirrup and cord girth, the 
latter having a buckle on its right side for the 
fastening of the strap on that same side of the 
saddle seat, thus preventing the saddle from sliding 
too much over to the left. 

The saddle-cloth, being of felt, should be so 
shaped that the horse may feel the influences of 
leg and whip. 

The reins should be limber and not too broad. 

Saddling and bridling a lady's horse must be 
done with exactness, and is carried out in all 
essentials as described for a gentleman's horse 
(see pages 46-52) ; but the girthing is done on the 
right side. The high position of the hands, which, 
naturally, must be assumed when riding in a side- 
saddle, often necessitates the use of a martingale, 
and in such case it should either be put to the 
noseband or its running rings should be brought 
outside of the curb-reins and placed on the snaffle- 
reins (see pages 42-43 and Fig. 26). The girthing 
and the stirrup-leather are adjusted after the 
lady is mounted. 

If, during mounting, the lady's horse is held 
by an attendant, it is done with the right hand in 
the same manner as in holding a gentleman's 
horse (see pages 81-82), while the left hand, placed 
against the right side of the horse, prevents the 
hind part from swerving to this side. 

Without a whip in her hand, the lady 



— 301 — 

approaches the horse in the same manner as 
described for gentlemen (see page 83), bridling 
and saddling* are examined, and she places 
herself with her right side so close to the left 
side of the horse that she may take hold of the 
upper head with her right hand. With the left 
hand, the lady then lifts the skirt a little and 
raises the left foot sufficiently to permit the 
attendant to place his right hand under the middle 
of her foot and the left one under the sole of the 
foot, after which she leans her left hand upon his 
right shoulder. At a sign, agreed upon before- 
hand— i.e., "One, Two, Three" or "Up"— the 
lady shoves off with her right foot, stretches her 
left knee, and raises herself by her right arm; at 
the same time, the attendant arises from his 
bent attitude, by which she is lifted into the saddle. 
Then the rider turns herself to the right and passes 
her right leg over the upper head, against which 
it rests in an unconstrained position along the 
safe of the saddle. Then, if the stirrup-leather 
be "stationary," its length is adjusted and the 
foot is put into the stirrup. The skirt is now 
arranged by the attendant, who, in taking hold 
with both hands at its lower edge — while the 
rider, with her right hand on the front of the 
saddle and the left one at the cantle, rises from 
the saddle — draws it quickly to and fro a few 
times, after which the elastic loops on the inside 
of the skirt are placed at her right knee and on her 

* In order to ascertain that the saddle does not rest on the 
withers, the left hand is passed under the safe of the saddle. 



— 30 2 — 

feet. After having given the whip to the rider 
and, if necessary, assisted her in taking up the 
reins, the attendant examines the girthing and 
buckles the surcingle or, on a saddle thus arranged, 
the stirrup-leather at the right side of the saddle. 

If the one, who assists the lady in mounting, has 
also to hold the horse, he does well to place the 
animal with its right side towards a wall; the 
horse is then held by the left snaffle-rein with the 
left hand, while the lady is lifted into the saddle by 
means of the right hand alone. 

The lady being so short that, when standing 
on the ground, she is unable to reach the upper 
head with her right hand, she places herself with 
her back to the horse and, while shoving off with 
both feet, is lifted into the saddle by the at- 
tendant placing his hands about her waist. 

If a lady has to aid herself in mounting, the 
horse is placed close to a staircase or another ele- 
vated object; reins, whip and the upper head are 
seized with the left hand, the can tie with the 
right one, and, with the left foot in the stirrup, she 
vaults into the saddle. If, in this manner, the 
rider cannot reach with the foot into the stirrup, 
the stirrup-leather is lengthened and re-adjusted 
when she is mounted. 

In dismounting, the whip is thrown to the 
ground, the hold of the reins is released, the foot 
is taken out of the stirrup and the loops on the 
skirt set free; the right leg is brought over the 
upper head and down along the left side of the 
horse and, in turning herself to the left in the saddle, 



— 303 — 

the rider sets the skirt free of the head. Support- 
ing herself with the right hand on the lower head 
and with the left one in the right hand of the 
attendant, she jumps down with knees bent. 

The horse being very high or disposed to 
kicking forward with the hind legs (see page 242), it 
is advisable to lift the lady down by seizing her 
with both hands about the waist — while sup- 
porting herself with her hands on the attendants 
shoulders — she is held on straight arms and brought 
to the ground in such a manner as to face the side 
of the horse. 

During mounting and dismounting, the whip 
being held by the rider, it should be taken at the 
middle and by the right hand. 

On horseback, the whip is held in the right 
hand with point downward. In riding with the 
reins in one hand, the whip is held between the 
second and third finger, the back of the right 
hand being turned so much to the rear as to make 
arm and whip form a perpendicular line. In 
riding, the whip is used principally by movements 
of the wrist. The use of weight, legs, spur and 
reins is in all essentials the same as in riding 
astride — the whip replacing the right leg, although 
gallop right is frequently performed by touching 
the horse's shoulder with the whip. Sometimes 
it may be necessary to assist the left leg with the 
whip by the rider bringing it behind her back and 
down along the left side of the horse. 

The weak point of the rider's position in a 
side saddle appears mostly in the attitude of the 



— 3°4 — 

shoulders, although it is owing to that of the hip 
bones which should be kept square to the length 
of the horse and with a perpendicular but strain- 
less position of the body from the waist up (the 
spine), that the shoulders will apparently seem 
motionless. Let me warn the fair rider against 
the forward and backward swaying movement 
of the body, so generally seen, at the gallop and 
also in leaping— somewhat like the top of a tree in 
a wind. Remember that it is the horse which is 
to gallop and leap, not the rider. "The hardest 
thing for a rider to learn to do on horseback is 
to do nothing." 

When escorting a lady riding in side-saddle, 
one should keep to the side where protection 
and assistance are mostly needed; consequently, 
on roads in countries where the rules for passing 
(in meeting) establish such to be effected to the 
right, one should ride to the left of the lady and 
vice versa. In narrow and difficult passages, and 
when the lady's horse shows signs of restiveness, 
one acts well in taking the lead. 



Schooling the Horse. 

(Breaking.) 

"Haste makes waste." 

A broken horse is a horse without any will 
of his own — whether he be a truck horse or a high 
school horse. 

The common sense, strength and willingness 



— 305 — 

of the horse have, from ancient times and in 
different ways, been taken advantage of by man 
in applying a training suitable to various pur- 
poses. 

In order to utilize the animal's strength in the 
most advantageous manner, the right proportion 
between strength and labor should be observed, 
and in the schooling of a riding horse this must be 
strictly followed. 

For the rider to be on good terms with the 
horse contributes a great deal in advancing the 
work of schooling, because when once the animal 
has gained confidence in its teacher, its desire for 
work will be aroused and it will learn to understand 
quicker, and also obey him more willingly. This 
can only be attained by a rational and skilled 
manner of proceeding. 

In the schooling of a riding horse, there is 
required great skill in horsemanship, a great deal 
of judgment, a thorough knowledge of the treat- 
ment of horses, their structure and natural dis- 
position in other respects, much patience, presence 
of mind, perseverence, fearlessness and firmness. 
For this reason, the breaking of a horse may seem 
an insuperable task to an ordinary rider; but he 
must not be discouraged, but hopefully set to 
work, when, in order to get his horse broken, he 
has no better alternative than to do it himself; 
even if the result be not so good, it adds to his 
experience, which is surely the best teacher. In 
order not to bring too many disappointments 
upon himself, the rider must not make his 

20 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 306 — m 

plans higher than those he himself and the horse 
are able to manage. 

The time required for the training of a riding 
horse can hardly be fixed beforehand; the best 
results are attained by acting cautiously and by 
letting the schooling lessons follow in succession 
and in a regular order by which the horse is taught 
to accomplish the different movements in balance, 
which should be the principal object of the 
training. 

An ordinary riding horse should, through the 
training, be taught: 

A. quietly to submit to saddling, bridling and 
unsaddling ; 

B. to stand still during mounting and dis- 
mounting ; 

C. willingly to obey reins, legs and weight, 
at the stand and while in motion, and con- 
sequently : 

a. to stand still and to turn on the spot; 

b. to be able to move in all gaits and paces 

while retaining balance and keeping 
time — and 

c. in so doing, to suffer himself to be turned 

and stopped; 

d. easily to back and also 

e. safely and willingly to leap over obstacles. 

To this end the schooling lessons are applied 
in the way they are prescribed in the foregoing 
riding instruction and in the following order: 



— 307 — 

I. Preparatory Practices. 

i. Accustom the horse to saddle and bridle by 
letting him look at them and smell them; the 
girths must not be drawn too tightly and the bit 
should not be struck against the horse's teeth and 
lips. 

2. Accustom the horse to the manege by 
leading him round on the track; right and left (at 
the sides). 

3. In order to accustom the horse to carry 
the rider, one mounts cautiously and slowly 
(frequently stopping and beginning again) and 
remains for a while resting on the arms with left 
foot in the stirrup, then descends again, thus con- 
tinuing the same operation until the animal 
quietly submits to it, after which the right leg is 
brought several times across the horse's croup 
and again down to his left side. If the horse also 
stands still during this, the rider may then seat 
himself gently and must, with might and main, 
try to stick on. If he be thrown, he must mount 
again at once. At first, during mounting and 
dismounting, an assistant should be employed. 



II. With Snaffle. 

1 . To put the horse into a walk. The legs used 
as urging aid is taught by means of voice and 
whip. 

2. Turning by feeling one rein, the rider's 
weight to co-operate. 



— 3 o8 — 

3. The natural trot — in order to attain 
natural bearing under rider. With a steady and 
pliant hand support on the bit is attained. The 
rider keeps as passive as possible; the seat — 
steady and pliant. 

4. To pass from the natural trot to the walk 
and from the latter to halt. Gradual passings by 
reins and weight but without the use of legs. 

5. Turning corners. Easing the outward 
rein; whip and leg on the inward side. 

6. Turning diagonally across the school at 
the walk. 

7. Leading the horse over a bar. The reins 
so long as not to exert any influence on the horse's 
mouth during the leap. ' The rider either jumps 
over the bar or lets go the reins just in front of the 
bar. Leaping, dismounted or mounted, according 
to progress, should henceforth be practised at the 
end of each following lesson. 

8. Voltige on horseback, by which the horse 
is taught further to submit to the movements of the 
rider. 

9. Bending the horse's neck at the stand and 
while in motion, when the horse takes support on 
the bit. Short periods; chewing on the bit. 

10. The medium trot, when the purpose of 
the natural trot is attained. Whip and legs urge 
the horse on against a passive and pliant hand; 
firmer seat in the saddle. By developing the 
medium trot, the horse is brought into better 
balance. 

11. Turning on forehand with horse's head 



— 309 — 

to the front. At first the inward leg is assisted by 
the whip and the inward rein. 

12. To pass from the medium trot to the 
natural trot and vice versa. In passing from the 
medium trot to the natural one, the legs are closed 
quietly; the reins are felt by degrees. &The horse 
should yield to the bit and press his neck together. 
In passing from the natural trot to the medium 
one, the reins are not relaxed, whip and legs urge 
the horse forward, by which he learns to push off 
better with his hind legs and at the same time 
retaining his bearing. 

13. Bending the horse's head at the stand and 
while in motion, when the horse yields to the bit 
and pays attention to the legs, and also has attained 
steadiness and bearing of the neck. 

14. The extended trot, when the object of the 
medium trot has been achieved and the pace has 
become steady. The reins must not be relaxed 
more than necessary in order to retain support on 
the bit. With horses that have a weak back and 
hind quarters, the rider should sit lightly in the 
saddle. 

15. To pass from the extended trot to the 
medium trot, and vice versa. Same as no. 12. By 
passing from the extended trot to the medium, 
the horse is taught to bring his haunches under. 
Gradual passing over with cautious influence of 
legs should be observed. 

16. To gather the horse while in motion. The 
head is placed perpendicular and the neck is 
raised, by which the bearing and the gaits of the 



— 3 J o — 

horse are improved. The horse must not go 
behind the reins. At first practised at the medium 
trot, then at the walk. If the pace slackens, the 
gathering has then been too forcible. 

17. To gather the horse at the stand. The 
horse should pay such precise attention to the 
rider's legs, weight, and to the reins that he — 
with his neck raised and his head as near to the 
perpendicular position as his structure allows — 
stands still with light support on the bit. 

18. To regulate the walk should not be 
practised until after the gathering has been 
accomplished. 

19. Backing can only be executed correctly, 
following a previous gathering of the horse. 

20. Collection. After gathering, the horse is 
made to bring his haunches under him, i.e., further 
improvement of the balance. 

21. The halts have already previously been 
applied (see nos. 4, 12 and 15), but they cannot 
be accomplished correctly until the necessary 
carriage and the removal of the weight to the hind 
quarters have been conveyed to the horse through 
gathering and collection. 

22. Bending the horse. For the attainment 
of correct turnings, side-gaits and gallop. 

23. Turning on forehand with horse's head 
bent sideways. Preparatory practice for versing 
(shoulder in). 

24. The great circle. As a practice in bending 
the horse and as the introduction to correct 
turning while in motion. 



— 3ii — 

25. Turning while in motion. Introduction 
to change in crossing the great circle. 

26. Change in crossing the great circle is 
performed on a serpentine line. 

27. To pass from the great circle to "straight 
on," and vice versa. 

28. Yielding sideways to the rider's leg, when 
the horse can keep on the great circle. 

29. Side-gaits with horse's head to the front 
(see page 171, etc.). 

30. Side-gaits with horse's head bent sideways 
(see pages 171-182). 

31. Turning on haunches (see page 184). 

32. Change in crossing the great circle is 
performed by sharper turnings than are described 
in no. 26. 

33. Diminishing and resuming the great circle. 
Introduction to small circles. 

34. Precise turning of corners (see page 137) 

35. To turn diagonally across the school at 
the extended trot (see pages 138 and 153). 

36. Small circles (see pages 188-190). 

37. Small circles on one track from versing. 
A stronger pressure of the rider's outward leg, 
easing the outward rein and the rider's weight 
inwards. 

38. To change during turnings while in 
motion (see page 167). 

39. To pass from one side-gait to another one 
(see page 182) and turning on haunches while in 
side -gaits. 

40. Bringing the haunches more under is 



— 312 — 

practised at the stand and consists in a higher 
degree of collection by which a raising of the fore- 
hand may be effected (see page 157). It is ap- 
plied in quick turnings on haunches and in tak- 
ing the gallop from the stand. 

41. The gallop. From trot on the great 
circle (see page 192) with even and easy gallop 
strides. It depends on the horse and on the 
preceding work of schooling, if the gallop should 
be taken from the short or the medium trot. 

42. To pass from the gallop to the trot, and 
vice versa. On the great circle. 

43. At the gallop on the great circle to pass 
"straight on," when the horse has learned to 
maintain an even and quiet tempo at the gallop 
on the great circle. 

44. Collected gallop. On the great circle, 
when the horse at the medium gallop has com- 
menced to lower his croup and to bring the hind 
legs under the mass. 

! 1 45. To pass from the gallop to the walk, when 
the horse in bearing takes gallop from the trot. 
At first practised on the great circle. 

46. The extended gallop, when the horse goes 
closely collected in the short gallop (see page 198). 

47. To pass from the extended to the short 
gallop, and vice versa. 

48. To change from gallop right {or left) to 
gallop left {or right) by an interval of a few trotting 
steps (see page 197). 

49. Turnings and small circles at the gallop. 

50. To halt from the gallop (see page 197). 



1 



— 3i3 — 

51. The gallop from the stand (see page 196). 

52. Changing the gallop "k tempo" (see 
pages 197-198). 

III. With Curb. 

The double or curb bridle is taken into use 
when, during the preceding lessons with snaffle, 
the horse has been taught to "carry himself." 
At first the horse should be accustomed to having 
two bits placed in his mouth — the snaffle-reins 
only to be used. Later on the four reins are to be 
held in both hands, the same as in riding with 
double snaffle-reins ; then, by gradually feeling the 
curb-bit, the horse is also made to yield to gentle 
pressures on his mouth, when the reins are taken 
and held as explained in "Riding with Curb," 
and the schooling lessons repeated in the same 
consecutive order as "With Snaffle." 

1. Yielding to the bit (champing the bit.) 

2. Unbent lessons. 

3. After attaining to a quiet, light and 
steady support on the bit, bending of the horse's 
head, turnings, side-gaits, etc., are practised. 

4. With the four reins held in one hand. 

5. With the curb-reins alone. 

6. Carriere (see page 249). 

Concluding remarks: As the training ad- 
vances, the early and easier exercises must not 
cease, but be repeated daily. 

The schooling lessons are always commenced 
and finished with the least fatiguing exercises, 



— 3H — 

and the exercises should not be continuous, but 
be alternated with long periods of easy walking 
when horse and rider should be doing nothing. 
It is a good policy not to attempt to do any school- 
ing when you are out of sorts, and also to scrutinize 
yourself when your work does not seem to prosper 
with you; for it is a poor trainer who is always 
ready to lay the blame on the animal. 



Horse Gymnastics. 

(The Modern Equine High School.) 

Although this branch of horsemanship may 
be considered as being beyond the limits of this 
work, the book would be incomplete without some 
mention of it, as there are comparatively very 
few riders who have any idea of the real scientific 
"Haute Ecole" of to-day, and by confounding it 
with circus trick riding, they consequently despise 
it, which is a matter for extreme regret, as the 
knowledge of its practical use can but add to their 
accomplishments. 

i The "Old School" — quite suitable for circus 
horses which are to be trained in great haste for 
"high school" — is represented by the so-called 
"Baucher System," and is, taking our modern 
ideas into consideration, restricted too much to 
work "at the stand." Of this system the Duke of 
Nemour said: " Je ne V2ux pas d'un sysfeme, qui 
prend sur V impulsion des chevaux" (I do not 
approve of a system which tends to diminish the 






— 3i5 — 



£\* 




Fig. 63. THE COURBETTE. 



-forward moving power of the horse) , and no more 
need be said. 

Having alluded to the Old School, I shall not 
omit mentioning the famous school-jumps on the 
spot — so-called because the horse lands on the 
same spot from which he takes off. They are the 
Courbette (Fig. 63, with hind hoofs just raised 
from the ground) ; the Croup ade (Fig. 64, with 
hind hoofs raised more and with their under- 
surface towards the ground) ; the Ballotade (Fig. 
65, with hind hoofs raised with their under-surface 
turned backwards), and the Capriole (Fig. 66, 



316 — 









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Fig. 64. 7\H"jE C ROUP AD E. 



with hind hoofs raised with their under-surface 
turned upwards). 

School-jumps on the spot enter little into 
modern high school work, as their practical use is 
small compared with the strain to back and limbs 
which they entail. The only school-jump occa- 
sionally practised is the Langade. This is not a 
jump "on the spot," but one "from the spot," 
the horse — by shoving himself forward by the 
spring of the haunches — landing considerably in 
advance of the spot at which he left the ground, 
in the same way as in a standing jump. 



— 3 J 7 





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Fig. 65. TH£ BALLOTADE. 

The Pesade (Figs. 67, 68 and 6g) is the intro- 
duction to them all, and in it the back-line of 
the horse should form an angle of 45 with the 
ground. 

The Levade is similar to the pesade only the 
raising of the forehand is of shorter duration — 
such as precedes the school-gallop when taken from 
the stand. - For this reason one may hear mentioned 
"Levade right" or "Levade left" according to 
which of the fore legs is in advance; for instance, 
in "Levade left" the left fore leg should be ad- 
vanced by the horse being bent to the left. 



- 3i8 




Fig. 66. THE CAPRIOLE. 



The Terre a Terre is a school-jump executed 
with all four legs and while in the school-gallop. 

The Mezair is somewhat the same, only in it 
the horse raises the forehand higher and raises 
the croup less and later than in the terre a terre. 

The school-jumps may be considered as a very 
severe test of the rider's firmness in the saddle. 

Even to-day, the school-jumps are taught at 
the "Spanish Court Riding-School" in Vienna and 
have no equal, as far as correctness, grace, beauty 
and elegance are concerned; they are also the 
specialty of this institution, its horses (Fig. 6g) 
being especially adapted to this work and, as 



3i9 — 



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Fig. 67. 7\fiT£ PESADE BETWEEN THE "PILLARS." 




Fig. 68. rilE PESADE. 

Performed by a Pupil of the Author. 
(Central Park, New York, December, 1908). 



320 




Fig. 69. THE PES AD E. 

"MUESTOSO-MOSCHINA," A LIPIZZA STALLION, 
One of the Eight Famous Stallions at the Imperial-Royal 
Spanish Court Riding-School in Vienna, Austria. 



compared with other breeds, easily broken to high 
school. 

The modern high school work is principally 
performed from the horse's back, and it lays 
extreme stress upon the action of the hind part. 
The practical high school trainer scarcely wastes 
a thought or a glance on the fore legs, for he knows 



— 32i 




Fig. 70. THE GALLOP ADE ON SLOPING GROUND. 



that action in those parts will come of itself when 
once the hind part is made to weigh up to the 
fore. 

In modern high school work the whip is rarely 
applied to the forehand, and then only from the 
horse's back and by slight touches on the shoulders 
or under the chest close behind the elbows. 
fi5ifc High school work of the present time is 
particularly directed towards the further develop- 

21 — Handbook for Riders. 



— 322 — 




Fig. 71. 

EC OLE DE CAVALERIE DE SAUMUR.—LE PAS ESPAGNOi 

The Spanish Step, Performed according to the " Baucher 
System" at the Cavalry School in Saumur, France. 

ment of the horse's activity for practical riding, 
and upon the same principle as gymnastics are 
used in schools and gymnasiums; therefore it 
would be better explained by calling it "Horse 
Gymnastics ." This is why it is not infrequently 
found, that such schooling, whole or in part, is used 
for animals the natural bearing and paces of 
which are deficient. 

The high-schooling is not commenced before 
the horse has been trained in longe and ridden; 
and thereby broken for ordinary school riding. 



— 3 2 3 




Fig. 72. THE "SPANISH STEP 7 ' AT THE TROT. 



Performed according to the "AutJior's System." 
(Central Park, New York, May, 19 10.) 

This is the gait that the French call " Le Passage" — an 
extremely rhythmical trot and one in which the horse signifies a 
momentary pause on each diagonal by keeping the lifted legs of 
the other diagonal in their position in the air for a moment. " Le 
Passage" is not considered elegant unless the lifted forearm be 
horizontal and the lower part of the leg vertical. The lifted hind 
leg should be bent at the hock joint so much that the toe becomes 
level with the top of the pastern of the other hind leg or is even 
lifted a little higher; but never so that the "two lifted legs" of a 
diagonal are level with each other, as this xvould make it look as if 
the horse were falling on his nose, instead of conveying the impres- 
sion that the horse is pushing himself forcibly forward, which is 
what gives elegance to the movement. 



— 324 — 




Fig. 73. THE "AMERICAN TRAINED" HIGH 
STEPPING HORSE. 



The paces and gaits taught in high school 
practices were (besides the school-jumps) formerly 
restricted to side-gaits (see pages 171-183) at a 
closely collected trot, the school-gallop (gallopade, 
Fig. 70) with its different evolutions, the Spanish 
step (Figs. J 1 and 72), and the piaffe (Figs. 74, 



325 




Fig. 74. THE PIAFFE {Le Piafier). 



75, 76 and 77), the last-mentioned being the 
"Spanish trot on the spot." 

By comparing Fig. 72, the Spanish Trot (Le 
Passage), with Fig. 73, the high-stepping horse, 
the reader may draw his own conclusions with 
regard to the action of the horse's legs, etc. 

The Great Napoleon said: "Pour devenir 
grand capitaine il faut lizer et relizer les vienx 
capitaines ." '4 This great man could have had no 
other reason for saying so than by studying 



— 326 — 







Hi 








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Fig. 75. THE PIAFFE. 

Developed Entirely by Work on the Horse's Back. 
{Central Park, New York, May, 19 10.) 

the old masters and seeing the results of their 
ideas, the masters of later periods have been 
enabled to improve on and even to alter the old 
systems into — we may say — quite new ones, which 
satisfy the requirements of later periods. We must 



327 




Fig. 76. THE PIAFFE BETWEEN THE "PILLARS." 



also read the written works of the old masters on 
equitation in the same spirit — thus, the modern 
school, in some respects, acknowledges and utilizes 
the fundamental principles of the Old School, 
and has developed them in a higher degree: 

1. By adding new paces, for instance, the 
extended trot with its greater spring from the hind 
legs and well extended action of the fore legs, the 
marching step at the ivalk* (Figs. 78, jg and 80) and 
the floating trot (Figs. 81, 82 and 8j) (or as it is 
called in Germany, the "Swim- trot," and in 
France the "Spanish trot"). In the two last 

* When in marching the horse is made to execute two beats 
(the first one being in the air) with the lifted fore leg at 
each step, it is called Double Marching (Pas espagnol 
double). 



328 - 






V 

t 



* 71 



.( 



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k ii 





Fig. 77. r#£ PIAFFE OF THE " OLD SCHOOL." 

mentioned gaits the fore legs are stretched for- 
ward and brought into an almost horizontal 
position; thus enabling the horse to cover more 
ground with each step than in the Spanish trot 
(see Fig. 72). In marching and in the floating trot 
the stretching forward and the high position of the 
fore legs should not be produced by striking the 
horse with the whip on the fore legs, but by using 
the outward leg more forcibly and farther back 
(see Fig. 82) than in the Spanish trot, also by 
conveying the rider's weight more over on the 



329 — 




Fig. 78. THE MARCHING STEP AT THE WALK. 

According to the "Author's System," accomplished entirely 
by work on the horse's back. 

{Central Park, New York, May, 1910.) 



outward hind leg; the reins should not be needed 
for this purpose. 

2. By requiring a more rapid performance 
of some of the Old School's evolutions, as for 
instance, the pirouette and the half pirouette (two 
methods of turning around and half around on one 



— 330 




Fig. 79. TJZE MARCHING STEP 
(Central Park, New York, May, 19 10) 
illustrating the third movement (planting the previously horizon- 
tally stretched fore leg). The movement comprises three distinct 
actions: 1st. The lifting of the forearm into horizontal position. 
2nd. The stretching forward of the lower part of the leg to be in 
line with the horizontally placed forearm. 3rd. Bringing the leg 
obliquely to the ground. This movement tends to develop free 
shoulder action for practical riding, apart from the benefit obtained 
from the action of the haunches. 

hind foot at the school gallop) , which are executed 
by the Old School in six, or three, slow, but high 
and beautiful gallop strides. The modern school 
demands that such turnings be made in less time 
than it takes to accomplish one gallop stride 






— 33i 




Fig. 80. THE HALT FROM MARCHING AT THE 
WALK, KEEPING FORE LEG IN AIR. 
(Central Park, New York, May, 19 10) 

Another feature of the modern style is the "free 
gallop" with its changings a tempo at every third 
or second stride. 

3. Again, by having introduced more varia- 
tions in the movements, which means passings 
over from one school gait to another direct and 
without intermission; for example, from school 
gallop right and left into Spanish trot and vice 
versa, and with a certain number of strides and 
steps in each gait, say three gallop-strides left; 
four steps Spanish trot; three gallop-strides right, 
and so on. Another feature is the direct passing 



— 332 — 




Fig. 81. THE FLOATING TROT. 
Illustrating the First Movement. 

over from the floating trot into the piaffe and 
then again into the same trot. 

4. Finally, the modern school demands that 
the high school horse shall be taught to jump as 
we understand it, and to do it with the highest 
degree of precision and correctness. The devotees 
of the modern school insist that a horse shall not 
only be able to get over an imaginary obstacle 
gracefully, but that he shall be able just as grace- 



— 333 — 




Fig. 82. THE FLOATING TROT. 

Illustrating the Second Movement. 

fully- — and with far more usefulness — to get over 
a real obstacle (see Fig. 61, page 294). For in- 
stance, an officer, who graduated from the most 
renowned military riding school in Europe, won 
the first prize at the final riding competition in two 
different classes — high school and obstacle ride — 
and on both occasions used the same horse. 

The gallop on the spot, backwards and on three 
legs are features of the high school which show 
great obedience, power and agility in the horse, 
but they enter little into modern high school work. 
Fig. 84 shows the "Halt" from gallop on three 
legs. 

In contrasting the new school with the old, 
I cannot omit relating an incident illustrative of 
the Old School. 



334 — 




Fig. 83. THE FLOATING TROT. 

Illustrating the Third Movement. 
(Central Park, New York, May, 19 10) 

The equerry of Louis the Fourteenth took 
three-quarters of an hour at the school gallop to 
advance one hundred and fifty steps, that being 
the distance between the riding-school and the 
dairy at Versailles — which is at the rate of just 
three and five-seventh steps per minute! 

This was the gallop record of those days; in 
ours it goes in another direction. There would be 



— 335 — 




Fig. 84. THE HALT ON THREE LEGS FROM SCHOOL- 
GALLOP RIGHT. 
(Central Park, New York, May, 1910.) 

very little risk of such a highly schooled horse 
running away, unless it were tail first! 

Apart from what has been already said about 
the manner in which the different features of the 
high school are taught and afterwards practised, 
a minute explanation of the subject would be too 



336 




Fig. 85. LOWERING OF THE FOREHAND {Au Bas) 

The exercise of the horse in this position tends to develop 
free shoulder action. It should not be done with hind legs "back- 
ward placed" but be commenced by first bringing the haunches 
under and then stretching the fore legs gradually forward by which 
latter movement the forehand slowly becomes lower. With a rider 
mounted it must be especially observed that collection precedes the 
lowering of the forehand, otherwise the animal's back will be 
strained. 



elaborate and of too little interest to the ordinary 
rider (for whom this work is intended) to be intro- 
duced here; besides, the detailed study of scientific 
high school work and its practice takes nearly a 
man's lifetime and requires special equestrian 
gifts. 

Circus tricks, such as kneeling, rearing and 
walking on the hind legs, etc., have nothing to 
do with this question, and should be absolutely 



— 337 — 

barred from high schooling, as they may prove 
fatal to the ordinary rider and injurious to 
the horse, whereas there is no safer animal to 
ride than the finished high school horse. 

On account of the greater mobility of the 
modern high school methods, special emphasis 
must be laid upon the harmony that should exist 
between the movements of the rider and those of 
the horse. The stiffened position — riding with 
long stirrups and straight legs — is no longer 
considered correct. "Elasticity" is the best word 
to describe the attitude of a high school rider. The 
elasticity of an easy rider, who has a good seat and 
a natural position, will communicate itself to the 
movements of the horse; for the horse will always 
be a mirror of the rider. 

Besides what has already been stated in 
favour of the high school training, it has the 
practical advantages of making the animal more 
obedient in proportion to the higher training and 
also making the movements of its legs more nimble 
i.e., it enables the horse, with safety and without 
causing injuries to his legs, to perform the quickest 
movements — a quality that should not be despised 
but sought for. 

From an artistic point of view there is the 
regrettable drawback that the masterpieces of 
the art vanish with their great masters, and 
neither "snap-shots," paint, marble nor bronze 
can replace the poetry, rhythm and music which 
inspire us when watching the beautiful, graceful 
and harmonious movements of the living work 

22 — Handbook for Riders. 



- 338 - 

of art, though in the eyes of a true horseman there 
is no more pitiful sight than that of a crippled 
high school performance. 

The following list of exercises for the per- 
formance of which the rider was awarded a Gold 
Medal for Equestrianism, may serve as an illus- 
tration of modern high school work: 

All exercises performed on or within the track 
of a great circle and equally to both hands. 

i and 2. Pesade and An Bas. 

3. The Extended Trot — performed in the fig- 
ure 8. 

4. The Side-Gaits (Versing, Traversing, Con- 
tra-Versing and Reversing) at the Col- 
lected Trot with passing direct from one 
side-gait to another, changing hands by 
half Pirouettes. 

5. The School-Gallop with five changes of 
lead (a tempo) in crossing the circle; 
small circles with changes, the same in 
Contra-Gallop; changes of lead at every 
third and at every second stride on the 
track of the great circle — to change hands 
by half Pirouettes. Diminishing the circle 
at the Renvers-Gallop until hind feet are 
in centre, then, by a whole Pirouette and 
immediate change of lead, resuming the 
track of the circle at the renvers-gallop 
to the other hand, etc. Gallop from the 
Stand at the Closing Travers with halts 
on three legs, leading fore leg in air — 



— 339 — 

alternately gallop right and left. Gallop 
on the spot with changement a tempo. 

6. The Spanish Trot, forward and backward, 
performed in the figure 8, and alter- 
nately on the spot, i. e., the high piaffe. 

7. Marching forward and changing to back- 

ward as a fore leg is in the air. 

8. Double Marching. 

9. The Floating Trot with direct passings over 
to "Spanish trot on the spot" and again 
to the floating trot, finally from the 
former "Halt" on three legs (a fore leg 
in air). 

10. Direct Changing from the School-Gallop 
to the Spanish Trot and vice versa, by 
three strides gallop right, four steps 
Spanish trot, three strides gallop left, etc. 

11. The Piaffe with turning on haunches at 
the "piafle-tempo," finally Halt on three 
legs with the last lifted fore leg stretched 
horizontally. 

Jeu de Barre, 

This being the game on horseback which, 
more than any other, requires great skill in riding 
and agility of body, it should not be unknown to 
the "educated" rider. 

The origin of the name "jeu de barre" is 
jouer anx barres, which means "to play at war." 

It is hardly possible to give any practical 
rules and advice for carrying out the movements of 



— 34o — 

horse and rider, as the game is entirely individual — 
some showing their superiority in skilful manage- 
ment of their mount, others by the agility of their 
own bodies and limbs, and experts, indeed, by 
both. Quietly awaiting the movements of the 
aggressors, no rushing and, when attacks are made 
on the rosette, trying to escape them by swift and 
small movements, keeping the aggressor on one's 
right side, should be the principal policy of the 
defender of the rosette. He will find that "turn- 
ing on haunches" at the stand and while in 
motion (pirouette) will prove the most effective 
movements on his part. The policy of the aggressors 
should be more active, trying to confuse and 
bewilder the defender so as to tempt him into a 
wrong position, then, by a sudden rush, making a 
grab at the rosette. 

The rules of the game — as they have been 
practised for the last forty years at Officers' riding 
competitions on the European Continent and as 
they are still maintained by "The Austrian 
Kampagnereitergeselsckaft" in Vienna, at its annual 
public competitions, — are in short as follows : 

i. A rosette to be pinned on the right 
shoulder of each of the players in turn. 

2. All reins to be held in the left hand; a 
short aid of the right hand being allowed. 

3. In each round both aggressors shall try to 
take the rosette. No one acts as another's assistant. 

4. If the defender gets outside the territory 
marked out for the game, he loses the rosette, 
which is then passed over to the next player. 



— 34i — 

5. The game to be played by only three at a 
time — one being the defender of the rosette and 
the two others the aggressors — each player to be 
placed in a corner of an equilateral triangle as 
starting-point (Fig. 86) ; the arena for the combat 
is generally a square, which in the riding-school 




Fig. 86 

may be marked out by placing a white tape on the 
ground across the manege and in such a way that 
one of the great circles lies within the square. 

7. The defender is allowed a certain time in 
which to defend the rosette — from one to three 
minutes according to the condition of horse and 
rider. The combat is finished after the time, set 
for it, has expired if the rosette has not been taken 
within that space of time. 

8. The one, who takes the rosette, defends it 
in the next round, though it must only be defended 



— 342 — 

once by each of the three players. If nobody 
takes the rosette, it is given in turn to Nos. i, 2 
and 3. 

9. The counting up of the result for each 
game, consisting of three combats (one for each of 
the three bearers of the rosette), is as follows: 

Taking the rosette counts 2, 

Holding " 1, 

Losing " " o. 

For instance No. 1 in a game, holding his 
rosette during the fixed space of time and then 
taking the rosette from Nos. 2 and 3, gets 1 + 2 + 
2 = 5 marks, the highest number he can get. If, 
at the finish, two players stand even in number of 
marks, both will have to defend the rosette once 
more in the fixed space of time. The player who 
then holds the rosette the longer time, for instance, 
1 minute and 5 seconds, wins from the one who 
loses the rosette after a combat of, say, 30 seconds. 
In the same manner the time is calculated for 
taking the rosette; the player who takes the 
rosette, say, in 1 minute, wins from the one who 
takes it after a combat of 1 minute and 5 seconds. 



343 — 



Memorandum. 

Dear Reader: 

Before laying down my pen, I should like to 

impress upon you that modesty is the ''hall 

mark" of the true horseman; for when on a 

horse "you don't know where you are," or rather 

"where you may be the next moment." In any 

case, give your "dumb friend" the credit of 

having inspired you with the ideas that made 

you his master, and do not — you the one on 

whom Providence has bestowed its rarest gift, 

"intellect" — degrade yourself by misusing your 

supremacy. 

Your obedient servant, 

The Author. 




Norway, 1904 



THE AUTHOR. 






THE SYSTEM OF HORSEMANSHIP 

TREATED IN THIS BOOK 

TO BE PRACTICALLY EXPLAINED 

IN A COURSE OF TEN RIDING LESSONS 

GIVEN BY THE AUTHOR 

FEE FOR THE COURSE, $25.00 

The saddles used in lessons 
are of the Author's model. 
For very young children 
u safety astride saddles with 
safety stirrups" are used. 

Fcr lessons by appointment, also 
within a reasonable distance of New 
York City, please address the Author, 
care of The Winthrop Press, 419 
Lafayette Street, New York, N. Y. 



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